durkie

haha, awesome. these are the ones that most recently came out, with the big holes drilled through only through one wall of the rim? (these: )

any idea where these came from? seems to be zero info about on dob as a company.

Pretty sure the try-all and trialtech are the exact same: weigh the same, look the same, and have the exact same erd.

really cool mechanism they've got there of spreading the pawl face out over 3 different teeth. i'm kind of surprised no one else had done that yet.

whoa whoa whoa whoa whoa you don't have mountain dew in the uk?

I've shipped bikes a couple times, and trials bikes are easy to ship - they're smaller, burlier, fewer parts, and probably already dented up anyways. a basic rule is just to reinforce anything that can be bent easily. On roadbikes, I'd take the chainrings off and zip tie em to one of the wheels (like a disc rotor) so that it's a lot harder to take a hit. for any wheel that i take off, i put an axle in the dropouts with nuts on each side of the drop out and tighten it. otherwise it's just a big lever waiting to get bent. put loose parts/bolts in a bag that can be closed and pack it separately or attach it to your bike securely. while you're at it, tie/ziptie/tape/attach everything on your bike together - your box can get pretty f**ked up, and holes will appear that bolts/pedals/headset spacers will fall through.

matt's letting the terrists win!

sounds like it's a 6" x 50 degree stem

something lovely about hearing this from someone so worried about the US becoming more communist or socialist. yall are a bunch of weirdos. vote for thread relock.

hello i'm from america go trials

that's probably true to some extent, but it isn't a necessary condition for having a good rear brake. my overall point is that brake pads are friction materials by design, and so they generate heat when rubbed against another surface. there's a reason our pads are not made out of glass, and why you don't want to get triflow on your rim. rub your hands together vigorously - they start to get warm, so heat was obviously generated. now rub them together just once - was heat generated?

so what exactly do you think is happening when you grab a fist full of rear brake and lock your wheel? where's that energy go? why is it important that brake pads are high-friction? just because something isn't hot doesn't mean there isn't any heat being produced.

sounds like you're doing multiple holes for one crack - you really just want to do one at the very tip of the crack.

Well...if yall want something experimental and don't mind not having a bashguard, maybe you should take a look at these. No guarantee that they'll work, but they have the same number of splines as middleburn, and you could run a 14t up front. And a simple email to them would resolve it. I think there's a good chance that they'll work, since middleburns are based on roughly 1.375" diameter, and the ENO hub probably is, since it used to be threaded.

also i'm pretty sure racecar rotors are carbon/carbon, not carbon/epoxy. worlds of difference.

there is a company that makes a headset that has a thicker lower headset cup, for the purpose of bumping the front end up. i think it only adds 5mm and i can't remember the name of the company though.

white industries makes a freewheel with two gears on it: 16/18 or 17/19 tooth. you have to move the chain by hand.

In many cases black things are pigmented with carbon black, which I believe tends to have lubricating/slippery properties (as well as being very low wear). Phat pads seem kind of purply though.

wow! that came out wonderfully. very interested to know what it's acutally like to use, but i'd imagine trials probably has much more intense braking than what the majority of people would be using this for. nice work!

alright, you should probably get some better pictures, but if it's anything like what's happened to me in the past, what's fallen out is the piece that the pad sits against. it's got a small stud on one side for the pad, and a small stud on the backside that fits in to the caliper. this piece can be pressed back in by hand, but that often only solves half the problem because when you get to the point where that thing has fallen out, the outboard pad adjuster has lost thread contact with the actual piece responsible for moving in and out, and spinning the adjuster will do nothing.

well to me, expand like mad means that the bb taper/isis spline hole gets smaller with heat cause the aluminum swells in all directions. but if it works, it works....

doubt it's broken. the only time i've seen this happen is when you dial your outboard pad adjuster way too much...it's a threaded piece, and if you turn it too much it runs out of threads and stuff falls out. see if you can pop it back in to place and adjust the pad adjuster to make it grab the threads.

you've tried this? I'm very very surprised that it works.....aluminum expands with temperature close to double what steel does. even if that weren't the case, everything expands with heat in some fashion...seems to me that you'd want to cool it.

It seems like it's one or the other: you get the ratio you want or the chain length you want (don't get why you care about chain length at all though). if you're going from an 18t to a 16t up front, then the rear would need to get correspondingly larger for the chain to remain the same length, so you'd end up with like a 16:17 ratio.