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dwarrick

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Posts posted by dwarrick

  1. Hey All

    Just picked up a Juicy 7 for the front, and its working awsome but i had one question about it that someone might be able to help me with.

    set up the brake as per the manual, leaving the bolt loose, pumping the brake and holding it then tightening the bolts to ensure proper alignment of the caliper on the disk. That step worked perfectly, the rotor is right in the middle of the caliper.

    Now my problem is I have to set the pad adjuster all the way out to get a solid lever feel or else the lever can be pulled to the bar and not get a solid lock.

    Can I set the adjuster all the way in so the pads are farthest apar from each other, pump the brake slightly with out the rotor so the pads will travel out further, and then put the wheel back in, hopefully causing the pads to sit closer to the rotor now?

    Thanks for any help

    Dylan

  2. taken from the HB trials site

    The 2007 UCI World Championship will be held in Fort William, Scotland, September 3-9. James Barton will be the first Canadian trials rider to compete in this prestigeous competition which will determine the UCI World Champion.

    James Barton is a 17 year old trials rider from Kingston Ontario. He's currently ranked number one across Canada and the United States. He won two of the biggest competitions in the US last year, Raccon Rally and Motorama. James used to BMX race, but he was hooked on trials after seeing a Ryan Leech demo at the age of 13. Since the last 4 years, he's been riding and training pretty much everyday. His natural talent and his great decidcation and efforts (he train up to 6 hours a day when he's not working!) explain why he became so good on his bike. If you never saw him ride, watch theses videos and you'll understand!

    Vid 1

    Vid 2

    Part of the HBtrials team since about 2 years, now in the team Simtra since last year, James is now ready for the big comp and he needs the support of the Canadian trials riders to get there. He's only 17 and he will be paying the fees to get to Worlds by himself, trials is too small to get any major sponsors.

    HBtrials and Simtra teamed up to try to help James and offer him some support. From July 1st to August 31, the profits from the sale of Simtra Team t-shirts, rubber grips and VP double cage pedals will be remitted to James for this trip to the Worlds. The price of theses items will remain the same as usual, so not only you'll get some nice parts for your bike and some shirts, you'll be helping out a fellow trials rider and showing him your support as the first Canadian who just might win the UCI Worlds in the Stock junior class!

    Thanks for your support.

    tshirt%20grips%20VP2.jpg

    Simtra Team t-shirts : 20$, black or red, S, M or L

    VP pedals : 20$, black and a few silver left...

    Rubber grips : 10$, black or grey

  3. Hey Guys

    I'm having a problem with my front bolts on my new style echo hub. basically they are near impossible to thread in and out on the disk side. They threaded in fine and then getting them out or back in tends to bend my allan key. its like the bolt has swelled inside the hub.

    Anyone else encounter this problem?

  4. This is a common problem on the mini levers. If you over tighten the reservoir cap then it damages the diaphragm where the gap is at the side to let air in (should see a little notch out of the caps rim if you look closely). Just take the cap off and there will probably be a noticeable mark where the notch is. If there is then that's the problem.

    So just top the oil back up and put in a new diaphragm, should be about 1.50 for the diaphragm, and if the shops feeling tight arsed about 50p for the oil. Be careful when you put the cap back on to only very gently tighten the bolts that hold it on, its hardly a structural part, and you don't wanna damage your nice new diaphragm.

    If the breaks been upside down or anything while its been leaking then it might need a re-bleed. Shouldn't be more than a fiver, or the shops ripping you off, hopes are way to easy to bleed for them to charge more.

    I am 100% sure that this is your problem. happened to me too, those 4 bolts really don't need much torque at all, just put them down snug.

  5. look like a really nice design and full metal construction. hoping to pick one up in the next week. I will let you know how it preforms

    link to picture

    Machined (CNC) from 6061 T6 aluminum. Flip-Flop design, two piece bar clamp and a seal bearing pivot. Compatible with mechanical disc brakes, V-Brakes and U-Brakes. Body is anodized black and levers are available in one of nine colors etched with the Dangerboy logo.

    Anodized and engraved with the Dangerboy logo.

    Available Colors:

    New Colors:

    * Stealth Black

    * Gunmetal Grey

    * 24K Gold

    * Infra-Red

    * Impact Blue

    * Military Green

    * Agent Orange

    * Pink Fusion

    * Purple Haze

  6. I am going to be picking up one of the complete lever body/blade for the hs-33 from echo. Just wondering if anyone has used it and if they found any differnece in feel/performance, so anything bad about them?

  7. http://www.emachineshop.com/

    this place is really neat if you need a hard to fnid part or want something custom. Go to the site and download there program to design the part. send it to them, they machine it, and ship it to you.

    They will also coat it in different things like chrome,anodize it, powder coat it.

    can be done in a wide variedy of metals/plastics

    also have instant pricing on the part you want

    good idea for that thread where everyone wants an adapter to run disc on there mod.

  8. Gytrials has the idea. you you look at the first pic of the hubs, look at the holes where the bolts go though. the green one is much larger than the new style ones which seem to be the standard for all hubs. if i were to make the holes in the threshold any bigger it would be way to weak. you can see in one of the pics how close it is to the edge already and it has to be quite a bit bigger.

  9. ok so i have a rear 07 echo mod hub. it was made with the first batch of hubs and has a weird design that it unique only to that batch compared to every other hub ive seen. the hole that the snail cam has to go onto the hub is alot bigger than other tensionners and cams. i got some thresholds that HB trials milled out to a new hub not knowing the difference in size and they dont hit on my hub.

    Anyone else know about this problem? Am i stuck with these snail cams that came stock on my bike as the only option avalible?

    pics for help. green one is my style hub, blue one is the new style

    IPB Image

    IPB Image

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