R*B

Haha can be in some places yes... As a general rule, go with no, it helps with sleeping at night :P Good luck with the project man :)

Very nice... Very nice indeed... Can never tell without a ride though :P

I don't think the xbox controllers are too small, they're just fine size wise, they merely suck compared to dualshock 2s... So much more responsive. And graphics aren't everything damn it! And the Halo games are very, very overrated!!! Microsoft good, Sony better. PS2 all the way :P

Holy ****!! Big, BIG gaps... Very impressive riding, looked like a laugh...

Lol thanks! ;) Was just giving people an idea of what I ride, seeing as that's what the topic is about (the price indicating that I'm very into this riding style as opposed to just dipping in and out of it) :P ... I've actually built that bike up over about 18 months, I started riding DH and jumping on a raleigh max then got my frame n some other bits second hand: full rigid with bodged parts and generic raleigh bits... It's all about the rider not the bike! :D Anyway... I'm surprised more trials riders aren't into different riding styles. The skills do cross over a fair bit, for example trials really helps with riding street and techy northshore. Suppose one of the main things is the cost issue of running two bikes, and dividing your time between different styles. Still, if you ever have a chance to try something else, give it a go. Always good to expand your horizons. :P

lol! I think this is one of those topics that should have been put in the "random small questions" thread...

Do NOT look at the azonic steelhead, they are the source of all that's evil... Utterly useless creations, more crack happy than a plumbers arse. As for the other comments, all good. 24-7 are tougher and ride better than DMR.

Heh, DMRs may be thinner than Konas but that's because DMRs are steel, Konas are aluminium (steel is stronger and heavier as a general rule). D-Streets, the 24" specific forks, are way, waaaaaaaaay to heavy and only have 80mm of travel. And yeah, MX comps will do fine, they're not overly strong but they're quite light and you wont break them until you start riding alot bigger and harder. And yes, they'll go fine with the Rhythm's geometry. Smaller frames are great, I'm 6'4 and my jump bikes only a medium frame (15.5"), so much more chuckable than longer frames.

They'd kinda be a downgrade from his current forks I'm afraid...

ARRGH!!! Crazy people... The marzocchi 66 is a long travel extreme freeride fork... Put it on a jump bike and not only will it completely screw up the geometry, it'll snap your headtube clean off... Not to mention the fact that they start at well over your budget and weigh more than your comps, whatever comps you're reffering to. Very few 24" specific forks on the market for the record, 26" with a disc is the way forward, or just no front brake for jumping. Since you think marzocchis weigh too much I won't suggest dirt jumpers, so why not try some nice Manitou Stance Statics? Cheap, and from what I've heard, pretty solid... I'm a Marzocchi man myself. Personally I'm not a fan of DMR frames but alot of people are so... Whats wrong with your Shred?

Smart words. Short answer: probably not. If only it were that simple... Still, you could always ask, they might be able to get you some other sort of deal.

I ride everything with 26" wheels... All (apart from trials) on my hardcore hardtail worth around £1500. I'm a freerider at heart: love downhill, love big stunts, love freeride... Used to ride a bit of BMX as a kid too.

A peak wont do a damn thing in a face plant to be honest. The only thing that will protect you from mashing your face is a proper full-face helmet like downhill racers and some BMXers wear (I have a Bell Bellistic personally, not for trials riding). Almost never see trials riders wearing full faces, so yeah, just get something that protects your head well. You cant really say a piss pot is better than an xc helmet because although the piss pot may be tougher, theyre both gonna need replacing after a major accident anyway. Go for something cheap that FITS WELL. A loose helmet is not particularly helpful. Everyone should wear a helmet... I don't always personally, but I should. You can't decide when you're gonna crash...

Right. A true wheel is basically where the rim is perfectly straight (true) with no bends, flatspots etc. An untrue wheel is the opposite, not fun when you run a rim brake. If you run a hub with loose ball as opposed to sealed cartridge bearings, chances are high that your cones are loose. "Play" (wobbling) in the bearings is the result of this. If this is the case, there will be two slim nuts on the hub, one on each side of the axle against the hub body. Get a pair of spanners (specifically designed, slim 'cone' spanners available from your local bike shop make this easiest but any wrench will do) and tighten these two nuts up evenly until the wheel stops wobbling from side to side. Try to find a compromise where the wheel will turn without too much resistance but the hub wont wobble (depending on the condition of the bearings, you may not be able to get a totally free spinning hub with no play in the bearings). Be careful not to overtighten or you WILL crush your bearings, ruining them. I recommend loctiting these nuts to stop them working loose so easily. If loose cones are the cause but tightening the cones doesn't sort it out, you'll need new hub bearings or a new hub. If this isn't the cause... I don't know. Hope that helps (Y)

Hmm... I'd say an issue with gears, but since you ride a mod thats less likely. If you run a mech/derailleur as a chain tensioner, check the chain runs through it properly (chain should run over the top of the upper jockey wheel and underneath the lower one in most cases). Can't think of any non-gear related reasons why that would happen unless you have a dodgy freehub mechanism. Hopefully someone else will be able to shed some light.