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ding_dong

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Posts posted by ding_dong

  1. So basically you tried to bum rape her?

    i used to do this shit for a living, key up (sand) the side walls with some 1200 grit wen 'n' dry sand paper, then mask off the rest of the wheel, make sure its completly clean i used to use panel wipe for this job but im guessing you dont have that so just give them an uber clean, then apply 6-7 layers of really thin primer, flatting ech coat with some 2000 grade wen 'n' dry, then leave for at lest 12 ours to set properly, unless you have a good heater that can get the room/booth up tp arround 50 degrees plus, then it will only take a couple of hours to set properly.

    once the primer has set, and has been sanded down with some 2000, start with the paint again flating between layers (5-6), once you have a good coverage leave to set for another 24h or bake it as said earlier, then once again flat the paint then apply 4-5 REALLY thin layers of laquer, be really carefull with this stuff as it runs easily, espsialy from a can.

    your best bet for this would be to remove the masking from the rim but leave the spokes n hub coverd, then flat the whle rim with some 2000 then laquer the rull rim, thus making the whole thing look brand new and like its all been freshly painted (Y)

    if you do this you will get a spot on job, as long as you dont get any runs with in your paint.

    the key is to be pacient, don't rush its not a race.

  2. Well I have a 26" and I find that 18:15 is a nice ratio. Quite alot of people with 26" ride 18:15. (Y)

    when i rode mod i used 18.12 like most do. When i man'ed up and went to stock i ran 18:16 for a while but prefared 18:15 by far.

    Now i run 18:14 on my 24" and its perfect, can get enough speed for "streety" kinda stuff, but still easy enough for "propper" trials moves :)

  3. (after furiously checking my shed).......Hey, post pictures of your own bloomin' bike next time Mr Vandart! :D heh heh.

    Interesting post though Guantanamo, the bike you see above is now mine and Matt provided me with the original Zoot stem and a longer 120mm +6 degree rise stem. Now I'm not really experienced enough to tell you the benefits of either, but I may be right in suggesting a shorter stem for a more steet style (bunnyhops, manuals, spins) and a longer/higher rise stem for more 'Trialsy' moves (tgs). If any Zoot owners, 24" riders or such could expand or correct, that would be great! Oh and advice on riser bars as well please. (Y)

    middleageman.

    pretty much hit the nail on the head, altho i run a 100x15 degree rise zoo stem on my 24" but it has a "traditional" no seat trials geo, rides nice for all round stuff, would be better for "propper trials" moves with a higer stem, but im learning spins n stuff so it all good for me.

    EDIT: im also running old style zoo! bars :)

    plus 10mm of stem spacers/stackers

  4. well at the moment theres not many of us (uni and broken bikes) so Dan Jaques, Damon me and maybe a kid called Frith AND once in a blue moon ollie

    we dont really ride on the dock, its a bit pants

    on the weekend we ride the marina, the deep, and a load of other spots around that area

    if its good weather tommorow text me at about 12 and il let you know where we're going to be ;)

    dude i got my new 24" all sorted now so im guna be rinding that all the time now lol, shame about the weather today i wanted to go out, mike not the best idea putting your numba on a public forum :)

    EDIT: saying that its not even right so your ok, it has one to many numbers lol.

  5. as it says, iv used the VBRAKE version now for ages on the front on a smooth rim

    BUT

    was wondering if anybody had for the back? on a smooth?

    ive used the search to no avail...

    i read summaty on here the other day about a guy using them on a crome rim on the back and the brake beeing that powerful it was ripping the material out of ther backings :) so sound like they work just a bit too well.

  6. can anyone tell me either what spokes i would need ti build my 24" onza ronnie ont a pro 2 26h 3cross pattern? or how to work it out?

    also what parts of the hub do i need to measure to work out spoke length? as i dont know what the hub is so i cant look on a web site or anything like i can with the pro 2. this is for the front being built on to a reggie rim, aslo 24".

    cheers

  7. i haven't got my built yet but i will have tomoro when my parts come, i have 24"built by him and its awsome, cant find a fault with it buy looking at it, the welds look good, its nice and light and its got renforcing gussets/plates in all the right places and they all look really neat.

    i will put a pic up of it tomoro when its built (Y)

  8. i found the simplest way to do it and get it spot on every time it to put it under the water, take both bolts out then pump the lever untill it appears no more air is coming out.

    chances are there will be though, so...pull the lever, and while you have it pulled put your finger over ther bleed hole on the slave (bit where the pad goes in) then the go of the lever, whilst still covering the hole, the take finger off the hole, i found this helps as it sucks in water then forced the air out the other end when you take your finger off, also put the bolt back in the brake while its still under the water so thers no shance of air getting in ther anywhere (Y)

    should be ok, if not u might have a small leak somewhere.

  9. as it says, i am in the process of ordering the rest of my stuff off tarty but dont know what rear cog i need, on my stock i ran 18, 16 and i would like to keep it arround the same ratio but am i right in guessing the different size in wheel means id need a smaler cog on the rear?? please help.

    another thing what tyres you running?

    i have a sum random 3" wide knobly as frick thing for the rear but not sure what to run on front, thinking a dmr moto digger?

    what you other 24" dudes running?

  10. yeah, like the other guy said, check with your local network but you should be fine i take my bike on the trains all the time.

    you can usualy put them in the bit where the carrages join.

    but a word of advice stay with your bike even if it means standing, its not worth letting someone walk off the train with your pride and joy.

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