ridemechanic

Right m8, here goes. What you could really do with is a Magura specific bleed kit, which comes with the bleed pot and the syringe, which is basically all you need. What you do is attach the syringe to the top of the lever by unscrewing the free bolt-although this depends on what year your brakes are. Then you attach the bleed pot to the spare nut/bolt/whatever on your left calliper(this depends on what way your looking at the bike). After that its pretty easy as you just push the syringe and the old brake fluid will come out in the bleed pot and then the fluid inside the hoses is gonna be your new stuff. Good luck, but bleeding Mags is a lot easier then some other hydraulics. By the way, MAKE SURE YOUR TPA SCREW IS LOSENED OFF, otherwise your bleed the hydraulics and then when you come to tightening the pull/push, you wont be able to tighten the brake any further!!!

1.drivetrain: If you've got the money to buy a cassette hub then do it. although if you're riding 20" then a freewheel is possibly better-it cuts down on weight and money. 2.bars: risers are more responsive for trials so go with them. 3.brakes: duel disks is an excellent choice. although can sometimes be a bit weighty, they have a beter ratio of stopping power then, for example, HS33's. 4.bb/crank: personaly, i would go ISIS because it's a lot harder to round of if the crank bolts come loose, and they tend to be better quality then square tapered. 5.stopping power: No comment 6.bike protection: No Comment 7.your protection: is this really a question? Helmet! even though it can get a bit sweaty at times. 8.footwear: No comment

Hi mate, strong rims tend to have a high hub wall and 4 cross-overs in the spokes, so try to match that specification. some rims only have 3 cross-overs but thats still strong enough.

Hi mate, if it continues to creek then you should sprey some oil down in through the gaps in the freewheel. if it still continues then you sould check that the thread the freewheel screws onto have a small ammount of grease on them.