Zordon
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Posts posted by Zordon
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As I have noticed by far, lots of people would like to download streamed vids not having to watch them from website only.
So here is a solution:
For Firefox users:
1. Go here.
2. Download and install the firefox extension.
3. Restart your browser.
4. On the bottom right you should see a new icon. Click on it when you are on a youtube (or any other with streamed video) website. You should get then at least one link (called "Download line") allowing you to download the vid. Click on it. Remember to change the file extension to *.flv and click save.
5. That's it. Well done. You have just downloaded streamed vid on your computer. If it don't work I recommend to instal K-Lite Codec Pack or VLC Player.
For the rest:
1. Install Firefox
2. If you don't want to install the Firefox though, go here.
3. Paste there a link to youtube page containing a streamed vid (or any other with streamed video).
4. You should get then at least one link (called "Download line") allowing you to download the vid. Click on it. Remember to change the file extension to *.flv and click save.
5. That's it. Well done. You have just downloaded streamed vid on your computer. If it don't work I recommend to instal K-Lite Codec Pack or VLC Player.
I think it would be a good idea to make this topic a sticky so posts like "crap hosting, can't download" won't be appearing anymore.
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maybe I'll give it a try for the next season if it's really thinner.
I can't afford to run boosterless as I love to have rock solid lever feel and additionaly a vee adaptor creates an extra leverage so the frame flexes a bit more.
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never heard about those onza ones, where can I find info on them (used search)?
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I have a little problem with my setup. I'm running rear Creepy Crawler tyre on my Gu with vee-adaptors, v-brakes and lizard booster. The brake setup is perfect for me and I wouldn't like to change it. Unfortunately, the tyre, although quite worn, is rubbing against the booster even with large amount of spacers beneath the booster and the vee-adaptors moved upward to the limits.
So basically I'm after some smaller tyre so it won't rub. Preferably not heavier than CCs. From what I have read and seen, old Echos with white stripes (2005?) and Montys with yellow stripes (2004) were both smaller and lighter than CCs. Can I find them somewhere anymore?
What other tyres are smaller than CCs and aviable to buy? Try-alls seem smaller but they're heavy.
Cheers
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Hey, just wondering if roughing up the rim will help with grip and what not, i was thinking of getting something (like my minimoto) to spin the wheel round whilst pressing some sandpaper on it to give it a rougher surface, is this a good idea or shall i just shut up?
Grinding is actually more or less making ditches across the rim braking surface like this: | | | | | | | | | | |
Your idea will create them along the surface: =================== and it shouldn't make a significant change in braking power. Similar ditches along rim braking surface can be found on rims with cnc'd braking surfaces (e.g. DX32) but I think it works more like a dust cleaner.
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Gu Long definately.
I'm not very tall (182cm) and with echo lites, viz 175mm stem (no spacers) and zoo bars it is the comfiest bike I have ever rode. Of coarse I find it to sidehop uber high too - done 100cm over tape today at last
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its also funny thinking with the value of your bikes you could actually buy a large house in poland, or feed and clothe a family for nearly a year (well almost)
Not really, we have stupidly expensive real estate prices now due to boom on this market but yeah, you could feed and cloathe a family over there for a year or even longer. Not only there though, I managed somehow to spend only 40 pounds on food when I was in England last year for two and a half month
Food prices in England and Poland are pretty comparable, I wish salaries were too.... -
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Youtube is from now more user friendly with a little help from THIS
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That's the first death from trials riding I have heard so far
RIP
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Yeah, those vids are very nice but they all have already been posted here
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.a
in Trials Chat
Sponge, can you compare Zhi bars to Zoo ones? They're look very similar but are they identical (apart from stickers, of course)?
Do you know what alu are they made from? 7075 or 6061?
What's the weight of them?
PS: just in case, I don't want to buy those bars from you. I only want some information
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23lbs
mielec dd mod
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Mikebike only design frames and they're welded by Mielec.
And what's wrong with them? Here's my Mielec story - http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....showtopic=76712
It's only a half of the full story as many things have changed since that topic. When I get current pics of my frame you'll read the rest. Trust me, it's even worse than the first part
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Dropouts, 4bolt mounts and plates near bb shell... all this is screaming to me that it's a Mielec job.
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So far I've done two orders from aspirevelotech and assisted in another one. All were shipped to Poland and only one was taxed by customs but the tax was much smaller than it should be. This is because aspire declare very low item(s) value on a customs form. The tax is based on that value (unless the customs decide to look into the package but it's very unlikely to happen with such a small package containing one or two king parts). In addition to that, the tax is charged (at least in my country) only when the goods value exceeds some sum (in PL it's something near the equivalence of 15-20 british pounds).
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Since I had got my King I've lost any fear before kicking, especially when powerhopping because I'm sure it won't skip.
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Fortunatelly I didn't use tar as my brake seems to be bedded in now. Uber powerfull
At last it doesn't slip backwards.But of course another problem had to occur - the rotor bolts come loose. Today I had to tighten them few times and finally I rounded off my torx key. To prevent rotor loosening I replaced two of the bolts with some standard bolts (to be tightened by standard wrench, neither allen nor torx, I even don't know how it's called in english lol) so now I can tighten these two bolts with a lot more power. Is it ok or should I go back to torx ones?
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Yesterday I couldn't fall asleep cause I was thinking about my brakes all the time. Finally I came to the conclusion. The housing is much stiffer than standard housing (than xtr housing aswell), with few tweaks it's pretty much compressionless. But the guilty of the most of the sponginess was my jagwire cables. Today I switched to standard 30p priced ones and oh my god it's soooooo stiff
. I adjusted the lever tpa to max power and it still feels stiffer than my brother rear brake setup (xtr lever - tpa max power, avid sd7, xtr booster, built-in control frame booster, plaz crv pads, standard housing and cable). Now I enjoy riding my bike alot more, I can kick further as the brake doesn't consume so much power from my leg.
I can't say too much about brake power as I've only tested stiffness so far but, anyway, thanks guys for help
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I would even risk saying that more people worldwide use their right hands with rear brakes (bicycles). Sooo, there is a british way and a "rest of world" way
So if you think your right index finger is more powerful, go and try it. You won't be disappointed
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Hehe, today I set up my avid just in the way as it reads in the manual without even knowing it ( I read it a minute ago). However, by far that hasn't made any significant difference. Maybe the housing/cable are the source of my problems.
Anyway, can anyone say that his avid (no matter which one - front or rear) is at least as stiff as a properly set up maggy/vee with a decent booster?
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I set up it this way:
I'm undoing the caliper bolts, then i'm pulling the lever so the pads are fully secured against the rotor, then i'm tightening the bolts and that's it. The effect is that the moving pad is flat to the rotor and the constant pad not (pads are not parallel to each other - is it normal?). Is it the right way of setting an avid up?
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I'm currently using avid bb7 203mm in my mod (rear wheel). By far I have done dozen of rides so maybe it just hasn't bedded in yet but it's still slipping backwards. It is also now not having almost any initial bite so I have to pull the lever fully to lock my wheel - it really doesn't help in gaps as when I start applying force to pedal the brake takes part of that force.
Not only that - it's spongy on the lever. I'm using quite good cables (Jagwire Ripcord), an Xtr lever (with speed dial/tpa set up in the middle to decrease still too big sponginess).
I'm starting to miss a standard rim brake, with loads of tar.
Btw - anyone used tar with disc brake? Will it make the rotor contaminated forever?
Hope Mono Trial 160mm Or Formula Oro K24 180mm
in Beginners Trials Chat
Posted · Edited by zordon
BB7 because (comparing to hope) it's much cheaper, has at least the same bite and power, much more adjustable, less flexy and, finally, you'll never have to rebleed it, a new cable and you're sorted
I would recommend an xtr or ultimate lever. However, an xt or sd7 should be fine too.