that NBR dude
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Posts posted by that NBR dude
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It might be worth, for your budget, looking at one of these...
http://www.winstanleysbmx.com/product/67502/Eighty_Eight_Lunatic_2014_BMX_Bike
It's actually quite well specced for the money. I can say this from experience as I bought one! I spent a few quid after, upgrading a few bits but out of choice rather than necessity.
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In general, you will be responsible under the eBay Money Back Guarantee or the PayPal Buyer Protection for the loss of, or damage to, a GSP Item until it is accepted at the UK Shipping Centre or if the item has been returned to you from the UK Shipping Centre. For example, you will be held responsible for eBay Money Back Guarantee cases or for PayPal Buyer Protection programme cases (whether or not a GSP Item can be repackaged or returned to you) where eBay (or PayPal as applicable) finds that:- Lost, Damaged, or Undeliverable Items.
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Ive had my zoot for about three years.....It had two owners previous to that
its still going strong -no crackes or dents.
Yeah, but to be fair I'm not sure I count as a previous owner... cracking from sitting in my lounge for a year would be impressive!
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Not going to help... 2 rides that lasted... Thought BB7s were supposed to be good?
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I had Jagwire cables which I was told to be good... however after buying different Jagwire cables (which look and feel completely different to the first batch I bought) I think what I got first time were fakes or their bottom of the line range. The new ones make the brakes feel fantastic!
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Took me an age to work out how to sign in! Thought it was a problem viewing at work or something!
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Worth a punt
The chances of me doing tail whips and bar spins are pretty much none
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Might be worth a shot. Whatever I do just seems to feel horrid.
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It will ride nicer once I've sorted the gearing out. It's currently got an 18tooth freewheel on the back with a 22tooth chain ring on the 'burns so it's a little... light to say the least. I've ordered a 16tooth freewheel which should solve the issue.
Struggling to make the BB7 work nicely, I'm sure my old one was a total machine; this seems all spongy and flexy. Feels awful, obviously set it up wrong!
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Just a little something cheap and cheerful to mess about on for the 2 times a year I'll probably actually ride it...
Just need to remember how to ride it now! Actually it shouldn't take much, couldn't ride to begin with!
Ashton Effect 24" frame
Ashton Forks
FSA Pig headset
BBB 90x35 stem
Inspired Arcade bars
Avid BB7 front brake
Avid SD7 rear brake
Middleburn cranks
Fire Eye pedals
No idea rims
DMR Hubs
Schwalbe Table Top tyres
Pivotal seat and wedge post
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One of the last videos I made was done on an SLR using a cheap-o steady / handle. I'll see if I can find the link but it will be one of the last NBR videos on Vimeo...
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Currently printing a T-Rex skeleton puzzle thing for Finn...
Good to see it's being put to good use... :wink2:
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Ohhhhh... see every day is a school day. It needs setting up properly (clearly my knowledge is limited!) by a racer to get the full potential out of everything.
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The ARB does work well, allows me to run a softer damper for ride comfort but keeps it stiffer in the corners. Does mean the back end breaks loose a bit easier though, just have to be more committed and not lift off, otherwise it ends badly!
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First of my baby bearded dragons is born and doing well! 1 week old
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Suspension/brake wise its got most stuff:
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Yeah not far off mine.
Hi los
Gaz lowered adjustable dampers
Yellow dot front cones
Red dot rear cones
2 deg camber arms
Adjustable HD tie rods
Rear camber brackets
Mini Spares rose jointed rear ARB
Fiesta 7.9" brakes
Handles really really well.
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109bhp in a mini is huge.
Great work Andy
We need to go out for a drive soon!
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It is a lot of work but I don't like most of the engine conversions out there. The Honda and Vauxhall lumps are very heavy and far forward, so the handling abilities of the mini are somewhat ruined. For a motorway barnstormer / drag car they're very good, but I don't feel they're as nice to drive on a nice back road.
They're also quite expensive, conversion subframes can run into the thousands alone, let alone the cost of the engine, suspension, all the re-wiring, ECUs, different drive shafts, exhausts ect. The only conversion I would do is the Yamaha R1 / Suzuki 'Busa conversion, but even that you also won't see much change from 6-7 grand.
Plus I like the feeling of knowing I built that engine entirely from scratch. The only bit someone did for me was hone the block which I got off Prawn. Everything else, including gearbox, block and head was built in my lounge from component form. I learnt so much about the combustion engine from doing it, how finely tuned every component is but also how small things here and there dramatically improve power / torque. I don't think I would have the same satisfaction from just plonking a ready made Honda engine in the hole.
Edit = Plus, it might not seem like a lot of power in the great scheme of things, but when you consider it started out as an engine that produced 60bhp, to increase that power by almost 100% is actually quite a lot, especially in a 600kg car
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It goes pretty well yeah, although I'm going to have to change the FD ratio as it's bloody ridiculous! Doing best part of 6k at 60mph isn't ideal, great for hill climbs but going to suck for sprints. It's fully road legal as well.
It's got an Aldon Red tuned 65D electronic ignition with mechanical advance instead of the usual vac advance. I'd like to go down the route of Nodiz or MJ but at the time funds had run out and this was the cheaper alternative.
I think I had a thread on TMF a while ago but got flamed by everyone for all the things they don't like, like FG fronts and wide arches.
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Spec:
1380 block, 4 bolt centre main strap
Stock crank and rods (at the moment)
Forged Omega pistons with MED rings
AC Dodd TSR cam
iSky Followers
Mini Spares Competition push rods
Ex Neil Slark Super Mighty Mini cylinder head with enlarged valves, bronze guides
1.5 Roller Rockers
Weber 45 DCOE on 5" manifold
Maniflow Stage 2 large bore LCB, RCM, centre exit box
A&R Precision ultralight flywheel
A&R Precision ultralight ally backplate
CG Clutch 6 puck paddle
Orange diaphragm
MED Roller tip S/C drops 1.089:1
Mini Spares S/C gear kit
X Pin DIff, 3.9:1 FD (plus off ratio drops makes 4.25:1 FD)
It's still on a mild tune at the moment as it's only done about 200 miles but figures at the wheels:
1st RR Session 96bhp / 99 lbsft
2nd RR Session 109bhp / 103lbsft
More to come
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Looks serious...
I'm guessing the oil cooler is there due to packaging issues?
Yeah, considering I have no inner wings and it's still an A-series lump, there's actually not a lot of space in there with the front rad, header tank, catch tank ect. There's even less now as I've added a second cooler coming straight off the tap on the head and back into the water pump as I was getting hot spots at cylinder 3 and 4.
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18 months of hard graft...
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I'm hoping to see as near to 100bhp / 100lbs/ft as possible. While it's all apart I may go down the route of NODIZ too, get rid of the crappy electronic dizzy but we shall see what the bank manager says
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Its in the process of being rebuilt but rough spec:
1275 A+ block
Bill Richards Stage 4 head
Weber 45 carb
1.5 roller rockers
Med carbon steel Pushrods
Piper STR930 cam with iSky followers
Omega pistons
MED Vernier duplex
MED alloy timing backplate
MED straight cut 1.09 drop gears
MED X-pin diff with 3.77 FD
MED Ultralight flywheel
MED Ultralight backplate
CG Clutch paddle plate
Maniflow exhaust system
Does this count as old school now?
in Bike Pictures
Posted
Wow, a Triton!! Not seen one of those for a very long time!! Looking good and unfortunately, yes that would now qualify as "old school"... how depressing!
Still remember my prototype 20" version.