hI-OOPS-CAPS

I would say longer bikes are better for natural as they can bridge things easier. Shorter frames are easier to bunnyhop, which takes a longer run up such as you get on street. Shorter bikes are more twitchy on the back wheel also. I would assume you get more power from longer bike as you've got more leverage. I'm maybe more of a weaker rider but, a long frame with the right geometry (bars stem also) and you'll be laughing.

With me being around stocks and riding stocks, you being on a mod and the angle of the camera, the photos seem hard to get in perspective of the height your getting. Nevertheless you seem crunched up on them sidehops so it must be effort especially that rail sidehop if you held it, or even if you didn't.

Only hub skips, but even then it picks up on the next 'click' Infact come to think about it, it's less of a worry than other things that aren't even on my mind. At least it's 100x more reliable than my nitro RC car

Hahaha, chess isn't physical at all! I worry bit about drivetrain in general, like snapping my chain or my hub skipping. Although hub skips aren't uncommon, I'm feeling more and more confident as nothing has went bad yet touch wood

Just a quick question. I'm wondering what chain splitters people use on their chains, moreso 1/8 chains. I've stripped the thread of the lever that winds in to push the pin out a few times.

Been fair since this morning here, although I had a full day off but woke up aching from a game of squash last night.

I've been told when I gap and sidehop onto things at my limit, I don't preload enough. I'm just wondering when you gap as far as you can, how far or how much do you preload?

Although my stamina could be worse, I think it's more determination to make me progress. Power will just develop as technique gets better. There is someone who I've seen ride a few times, not bulky to say the least and he can pull off power moves like he's been riding 5year or so. Might be the geometry of your frame making it feel heavier.

To me that seems impressive, quite a big up at start to hold on back wheel. Gaps thereafter seem well controlled for being a "railing" style gap.

It's 135mm axle, and infact if I get front freewheel I think it'll turn out more money as I'll also need bashring, rear sprocket and I don't know any problems linked with the chain tension and alignment. I also haven't heard a bad thing about the Pro2, so I'll save the front freewheel for some wintertime.

Im just wondering about running a fixed hub on rear, some front freewheel - probably Tensile, and a Rohloff chain tensioner. Will the chain tension be ok and aligned easily, and also with Tensile cranks, will I still be able to have a bashguard and a freewheel? Lastly are there many stock riders with front freewheel?

Try-all 47mm rear rim for 26". So sturdy, rigid and light

A kid said, how do you ride your bikes with no seat? mate replies I dont sit down ah thats so logical and true, tickled me though

I just read my notes and write important things down, lucky for me my course is mainly equations and statements so not much english must be wrote. Revision for english and biology was harder as there's more literature which isnt for me

ah thats quality, bet that bloke dropped his head

Two year my maguras havent needed any maintainance. I'm guessing vees need their cable replaced regularly. Havent tried vees yet but would like to everyone says their power is great

well, I think Ive just overtightened the screw that clamps the lever to the bars save the applause. Can anyone tell me if i can replace the lever at all without doing a bleed?

I dont plan on front tapping, nor commit to them. As my front wheel goes up it might clip the wall and even thats noticable. I just want them to be more consistent You saying they're not the best thing to do?

Im just wondering what the best way to start learning these front taps are. Im at a height now where I get unwanted front taps and they put me straight on top. How did you learn to do yours?

It would suprise me if it hasnt already been tested. I would say its too flimsy for trials use, I suppose the frame's designed to be landed on hard. For example two year my trex has put up with it

Ive never known of any flex in the forks from the maguras, and my guess is a booster won't change the feel. Although Ive never tried one and they must make them for a reason

No i have not, Ill try this and spacers with new stem and if this works you've saved me some knew bars

Well my bike has a maybe too long feeling to it, and im not an entirely strong rider. I think riser bars are next on my list.

I have flat onza bars and maybe thats why I find it a struggle to keep the front up after a gap or pedalup or whatever. Maybe I should try these riser bars

Generally don't push myself enough to do stupid things, nor do enough street. I usually hit my left shin alot, had stiches a few times