neomember

I'm hesitating between two sets of cranks for my street/trials bike. I have to choose between a very straightforward setup or a complicated one that offers a lot of possibilities. The first one is a Truvativ Holzfeller Trials 22T crankset. You probably know them already: http://unrealcycles.com/catalog/Cranks.htm With the Truvativ ones, i'm pretty much stucked with the bashring(quite large) and i don't think i can fit a chainguide device on these... if i need one later. For the other, i was thinking about a 3-piece BMX crankset(BMX BB). It comes with a removable 4-arm spider and i'm planning to get another 5-arm spider also. This could offer a lot of possible configurations and "infinite" chainlines. As it comes in 165mm, i don't know if it's long enough for a 26" bike or for trials in general. I don't know much about the weight also(tubular CrMo). The cranks: http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...A:IT&ih=016 The 5-arm spider: https://www.jrbicycles.com/storefront/index...p;productId=980 I was leaning toward the BMX cranks cause if i have chain slipping problems later on, those are required to install one of these: http://www.e13components.com/product_sst.html The thing is that i don't know if i'm gonna be able to fit a bashring for a 22t sprocket. I want to know if i can fit a bashring between the crank and the spider in the 64 bcd holes. I was thinking of buying a threshold bashring or something like it. Do trials cranks are different from BMX cranks? How do you setup bashrings on trials cranks? The bashring: http://www.webcyclery.com/product.php?prod...t=21&page=1 I'm even thinking of "sandwiching" my sprocket between two threshold bashrings like the Monty 231 Ti Crankset. I mean... how badass is that. I scare myself sometimes. Monty 231 Ti Crankset http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?id=2108 Sorry for the headache. Thanks!!

Hey buddy!!! Unfortunately, i don't think you'll find a riding partner here. Not much Canadians in here. Seriously, i thought i was the only one

The guy is still better than i was at his age. Instead of bashing him, i just think he needs some direction. What you are doing right now will get you nowhere. Stop rolling over stuff. Try to focus more on basic trials skills and put time/effort learning them. Learn to trackstand, basic two-wheel hopping, rocking, pivots. Then go for backhops, pedalkicks, etc... Use Internet resources. Search for them!! Post videos to get advices on what you are doing wrong... not for showing off stuff you can do. Don't try to impress people if you don't have what it takes. If you were a skateboarder, you would be called a poser. And you don't want to be a poser(not very flattering). It's okay to be proud of your newly acquired skills but keep it for yourself. Use it to give you the confidence boost you need to go on to the next step. There's no need to post videos each time you've learned something new. It's pretty boring for the more advanced riders. Avoid the obstacles for now. Stay still on flatland and practice 1 or 2 basic trick(s) at a time and don't quit until you get it done. Hope it helps!! Wish you good luck... and have fun!!!

Nice cranks! What is it?

Well, i'll be happy trusting Chris King. They've probably serviced more Kings than Adam will ever see in his life. Sorry to be rude but i think i get the meaning of your post. Adam is probably one of the most competent guy there is. But i don't care about Adam. I'll make my own experiments and see what happens. Maybe the thin lube is the best solution. I'll choose by myself if i want to use it or not... if it still skips with the grease.

I mean... how hard it is to make all yours hubs 48pts. This is supposed to be high-end stuff. Every Hope rear hubs has 24 teeth and four pawls. They just off-set two pairs of pawls for their "trials" specific hubs. That's what got me confused from the beginning. I guess that the engagement of the 24pts engagement ones is twice as strong as the trials ones... but who cares. You don't need twice as strong(than trials) engagement for XC and DH. Don't worry about the WD-40, i didn't think it was a great idea. I'm not so fond about the thin lube either. In CK manual, they strongly advice several times(in bold characters) not too use anything else than CK grease or... you might die or something. It's only adviced for sub-zero operation(where the lube probably gets thicker). It's probably a marketing gimmick to sell their own stuff but i'll stick to it for now. I'm afraid that with thinner lube it will wear twice as fast.. or dry as fast. I think these hubs are expensive enough so... i'm not taking any chances. Not trying to hurt some feelings here... i'll might try a set of brakes someday... but Hope seems to me, a bit overrated. Don't get me wrong, i'm still "happy" with what i got. It's lightweight and reliable. Just that, XTRs are probably lightweight and reliable too.

I wonder if i can offset pawls to get more engagements points.

Couldn't watch the video before cause i had computer problem. I've seen it now. I'll still order the CK grease cause i need some for the bearings. I have another rear wheel i can use for now. I'll probably have one month of riding left before winter so... it can wait. Just got a 150mm Hope Pro II rear hub from the post a few minutes ago for my DH bike. What's so special about them. Looks pretty plain and simple to me... almost boring. I was expecting 48 engagement points instead of 24. Still good for the money i guess but how do they compare to Chris King. The difference of money between the two really shows. Sounds like my old ratchet wrench. I guess they are reliable. I've heard a lot of nice things about them though. Thanks again!!

Okay, everything is cleaned, so everything is spotless. Now, the lubrification part sounds a bit confusing. It seems that i need 'low shear RingDrive grease' on the teeth between the RingDrive and the hub shell and to put some Tri-Flow or 10w synthetic oil on the helical splines of the RingDrive. Did i get that right? Based from your experiences can i subtitute the 'RingDrive grease' with something else? It will take some time if i have to order it. And also, which Tri-Flow lube do i need? Tri-Flow is just a company name. Edit: I'm planning to service the bearings also. Thanks!!

You need a bike 'a la Ryan Leech'. I'm on the same quest as you. I just bought a Planet-X Pitbull Pro ($225US on eBay). Also bought a ridgid fork to do the swapping trick. I'll try to find myself a second crown race that fits my headset to make quick changes. Street bikes with suspension fork are pretty hard to build under 30 pounds. With the fork swapped and the seat removed, i'm planning to get about 27-28lbs... but that's with a lot of lightweight and expensive components. As other said, you should look for a frame with longer or adjustable chainstay. Cause with the weight of the bike combined with short frame(low leverage), it won't give you much punch from the rear wheel. Maybe consider a longer/higher stem(to get more leverage). Chromoly made frame is nice to have also(but heavier). Hope i've help...

*Bump*

This should be sticky!! I used to stop with my shoes but now i'm gonna put my helmet and definitely try this! Will this work for disc brakes???

This shouldn't be a problem! Bend the arms more, get closer to the bike to get the bike more upright. I can backhop on my 36lbs bike, no problem! ... and i'm a noob!! I did blame my bike a lot at first, but there's no reason(me being the problem). Not for backhops anyway. And you can hop on the front wheel??

Thanks for all your advices... i'll do just that!!!

Cool!

Is this sarcasm?

Bought it used. It was going fine at first but the skipping starts just after a few weeks. Now, it's getting worst every day... even with very low pressure on the pedals sometimes. I would be happy if it just needs a little lube and cleaning. But i don't know anything about it. I could probably service it myself. Just want to know if it's bad or not. Thanks!!

Yes, there's plenty of videos, websites that you can learn from. Watch for YouTube and Trashzen. It will be better than trying to explain it using words. It's basically a static bunnyhop using the drivetrain... on the side. Try learning them upright at first. Do some static bunnyhops without using the brakes so the drivetrain(and the rear wheel) can spin freely. If you use the brakes, you'll go backward. Watch for your back, helmet is adviced. When you get the hang of it, add a little punch to the drivetrain(re-use brakes before/after). Then learn them on the side. Hope it helps!!

As titled... what to do with a Chris King rear hub that skips? Is there any parts i need to change? How much does it cost? Thanks!

Suprisingly Vees are about the same weight(caliper + lever) as magura or disc brake(minus the rotor). To get the same feeling at both levers, i'd go all hydro or all cable. BB7 front/V-brake rear Hydro front disc /magura rear Hydro feels much better at the lever in my opinion. More precise(modulation) and you don't have the grinding feeling of mechanical. The rotor has to be perfectly true for mechanical disc brake. If not they're pretty much unpredictable. It depends also how much maintenance you are willing do to on them. BB7 simply won't stay adjusted for the love of god. You have to re-ajust the caliper every five minutes. That's why everybody are pros at adjusting them. They lock like hell though. Rear disc always gets in the way especially for sidehops. Buy some spares. Having two rim brakes should be nice also. If they can lock. You shave at least half a pound from having two rotors. Hope it helps!!!

Best skill you need, i guess, is knowing how to fall. But i must admit this guy had no chance. Still respect that!!!

Just missed a deal on eBay. Check this out: http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...em=170149142268 My current 6" Avid Wavy rotors weighs 113g/each... these alloy ones are claimed to weight 48g/each. You save 65g per rotor. Can't find them anywhere else on the Internet. They're supposed to scream like hell though Any experience with that?? Thanks!!

Nice tires

I've learned levelling my pedals when i was fed up backhopping backward. For 2-3 hops, i think it can wait a bit. But it's a skill to learn as soon as possible. As for bunnyhops, for the first part, you need to slam your handlebar above the knees. Tuck as low as possible to get as high as possible(pull arms/push legs). It just preloads your body high above the bike so you can pull the bike with you(2nd part). I got better at bunnyhop when i practiced sidehops. You don't need to hop on the side at first. It's basically the same but using the drivetrain. Watching sidehop videos really helps!

I think the animated GIFs are the best thing ever. I watch them looping over and over.