willy wonka

I think that the GU's are stonger. Not 100% sure but pretty sure. Theres no major difference really.

Theres not much difference you will notice.. Can't really say more than that really, well the controls are lighter...

Don't know where you got that from but my friends couts where amazing on a grind. Lasted around 12 months too (on a medium but sharp grind). They are designed for a grind so I can't see why they would disintegrate.

Fish eye lense? This would also stretch the edges of your recordings outwards. I think thats what your talking about.

Hi, The best way to grind a rim would be to use a angle grinder. You will need a metal grinding disc for the best results, although some swear by stone grinding discs. You will need your wheel out of your frame, with your tire off too. I'd put a cloth over the cassette now to protect it from the grinding shavings. If you want a deep grind hold the angle grinder at a steeper angle and if you want a lighter grind hold the grinder flatter. Also the amount of pressure determines the grind significantly. So more pressure means a deeper grind. Now turn on the angle grinder and skim it across the braking surface on the rim using the various techniques from above. The quicker you skim it across the sharper the grind. Make sure that you DON'T keep the grinder in the same place on the rim, it will eat through your rim very quickly. Make sure that you have gone over all of the braking surface and your done Clean up any metal shavings off your wheel to try and prevent punctures.

Ok, but I do want to have the TPA off in working condition ideally. Well if there doesn't seem to be any other way then I think I'll have to do that. Thanks.

Yeah I know, mines been like it for a while now. I just like to have my brakes set up perfectly, you can't seem to quite get that without using the TPA. Its also kind of annoying when you need to bleed your brakes and your TPA is half unscrewed. Thanks anyway.

Personally, I use 18 up front and 16 at the back (on stock). I found that 18-15 felt a little bit too sluggish for gapping, but it was a bit better for back wheeling things. Its all down to personal preference, but around the 18-15 mark is always a good start.

Sorry, I don't quite understand how I'm supposed to do that. Do you mean clamp onto the metal part of the TPA system and start turning it? If thats what you mean, surely it will flatten all of the threads off when it hits the side of the lever blade? Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Sorry for nicking your topic but i didn't think this was worth a new thread. How exactly would i get the TPA off if it is completely stuck? I have taken the lever blade off of the lever body and I cannot unscrew the TPA, there doesn't seem to be any simple way to get it off. Please could someone tell me how I get it off intact? Thanks.