froob

Firstly, that question seems to be commonly asked on here in new members, so if you scroll down the new members chat page till you get to the bottom, there's a search box. Use that before posting new topics. Secondly, theres a lot of reasons to get either 20" or 26" or even 24". 20" bikes (known as mods) are usually smaller, lighter and easier to chuck around. But I have always found their not so good for a lot of static moves (compared to a 26"). Most people who start trials end up getting a mod simply because it seems to be easier to learn on. 26" bikes (stock) are usually ridden by taller riders. To me, stocks feel more stable than mods but less flicky and agile. I've always found that rolling moves (such as hooks and taps) are easier on stocks as theirs more room to move around on. Stocks are usually heavier so when you ride them you probably would get tired easier, but its all preference to which you want to ride. Thirdly, topics like this aren't very helpfull to be honest. All they do is annoy a lot of people on here because your asking such a vague question. You should structure your post a lot better and ask a lot more questions to get the answers your after. It doesn't matter how tall you are, tall riders can ride mod and short riders can ride stock. It's all preference. But the majority of stock riders tend to be a bit bigger than mod riders Report it then?

I bet he does though. How would you know anyway? Just because you saw him in his vids? Well what if the forks in the majority of the clips where new every time..

Undo your stem bolts (the ones that tighten up against the steerer) and tighten the bolt on your top cap till it stops. Then tighten your stem bolts back up and it should be all good Make sure you don't over tighten the bolt on the top cap, otherwise you may end up messing up the headset bearings. If the steering is stiff then you have tightened it up too much....

Twisting it all the way in makes it spongier. Need to have it twisted all the way out The best way to make your brake feel stiffer would be a decent lever and decent cable (such as odysey linear slik cable). Have you set it up correctly? So that the stationary pad is rubbing the disc slightly and the moving pad is a few mm away? Because if the stationary pad is away from the disc, the moving pad has to push the rotor over for the brake to lock properly. Also are the pads hitting straight? If they're not then you need to undo the two bolts holding the caliper onto the adapter, then tighten in the red nob on the outside of the caliper (one furthest from the wheel) till both pads are against the disc. Then tighten up the two bolts and undo the red knob a few turns. I haven't really explained very well but you should get the idea?

Just don't tell them your going to spend the money? I've been able to do whatever I want with my money since I was like 13. To be honest i wish my parents stopped me buying a load of junk, then I might have had some money now