gzus11

i cannot find my first thread from building my bike, but this happened to me also what i did was replace them with propper bolts, i think they are M8 dome headed bolts. i broke these, sheared the bolt, cracked nuts and stripped threads.

i am not sure what you have been doing but with the syringe its quite simple. remove both bleed screws. attach your syringe filled with water to the lowest opening. depredd syringe filling your system untill air stops coming out of the upper opening. insert upper bleed screw remove syringe insert lower bleew screw.

what brake adapter are you using? the ones i had/have are stiff, and are now make my brakes even stiffer. i found that my frame flexes and gives poor braking, i was also worried about premature failure due to the twisting. the boosters are necessary on my brakes.

"flex is bad mmkaay" the person is a major factor and opinions are subjective, i have noticed my fingers get a little pain now the brakes are stiffer, but ill get used to it as having stronger brakes is more beneficial than spongy ineffective brakes and comfy fingers. from a design perspective, frame flex it the limiting force that can be appled ny the brake, force applied to rim = force deflecting the frame. I much prefer the situation where the limiting braking force comes from my arms and fingers, and not a flexing brake mount. think about your cars/motorbikes/ or even disc brakes these callipers have no (noticeable) flex in order to apply maximum braking force. imagine a BMW(anything) at 70Mph maximum braking force is limited by the grip tires have on the road surface hence ABS and not flex/play/failure of the callipers. no rider is wrong when they say X brake is better than Y brake, but in engineering/design terms flex is bad, it causes a limiting situation (like our braking force) and puts additional stress/strain on the material (cracked mounts) Ps, I am no expert rider. Pps, ha strange indeed, the saracen frame gets me by for now, untill I get a nicer frame

I agree with those. I had frame flex and poor brake power as a result. I needed brake booster and remembered I had these DNA V-brake plates on an old bike. I was going to use them to stiffen the frame and mount the brakes, but my tyres are too fat for the maggie mounts to fit, so i removed the canti studs and mounted them as boosters, my brakes are excellent now, no spongieness or frame flexing, and the pads apply much greater force on the rims. Pictures below other pictures on flickr

Yes there is, it's due to a spacing issue, these sram cogs are slighty thinner than the single speed one so I put the 14 tooth in to get the spacers clamped up tight, and if they are not strong enough for me and I strip one i can swap them over and still be able to ride home.

Cheers guys, that is some really good information. I was not sure if the hub and sun ringle were the same. I also contacted the guy I got it from and he can get a set for about a tenner. Here are some pictures for peoples interest. If they look similar to other manufacturers parts i would like to know. Three pawls, I do not know why one is of a different material, this one was slipping untill i stretcehd its spring a little Axle and hub. Pawl.

Last installment I think. I have replaced the chainring bolts for machined down button head hex bolts spacers and nylock nuts for strength. replaced the chainring for a middleburn 22 tooth and a 13 tooth (spare 14 th) on the rear from a Sram cassette. 22-13 feels a better ratio, good feel, but still not as much top speed as bmx, but is smooth and a comfortable enough to learn on i think. Close up rear Now just to get out on it and get learning

Or try this calculator. It is fairly straight forward. you need hub flange diameter (spoke hole diameter) flange offset fron hub centre line Rim diameter (ERD diameter from nipple hole to opposite nipple hole) and rim offset from hub centre line. and number of holes. that will give you the spoke lengths for various cross patterns.

I does work well, they are better than any other brakes i have had and have more force than the new bike as the frame is stiff and the larger studs reduce flex aswel. Ill be pretty much using it for street, that and just riding around untill i can get better at the basics for now.

Hello, I need a little help to find a replacement pawl for my ringle hub you can see the hub in my topic from NMC here. I would like to know if anyone is famliar with it, or if there are any places to get spares for it. Tomorrow I will get some pictures of the pawls and fingers crossed I'll be able to get a replacement. Cheers.

Try it yourself, its is easier than it seems at the start. I did recently adn I'm really happy how they turned out and I can fix them myself aswell now. read the info here and there is plenty more to find on the net.

Thanks guys, I'm really happy with how it turned out. The pegs and axle were very effective for pressing the headset cups into the frame and one of my mates was impressed by simplicity of it, has borrowed for his new frame. I have to say I am impressed and surprised by the Simple Eject hub, not only does it look great (to me) it was really nice to build up and is very smooth, i spun the wheel yesterday and it kept going for a good five minutes. here are some pictures for Revolver Its a DB joker I have been using as it is lighter than my GT freestyle(?) I though i would try a maggie on it to improve the brakes, I don't do any bar spins so no need to have gyros and all that stuff. maggie mounts reversed as U-brake studs are in a different position to Vees. I had to drill out the mount blocks to take the larger U studs, and was lucky with the chain tension and wheel location lined uo with the brakes set at maximum position. It's pedals have been nicked for the new bike.

maggie bmx when I get home. cheers I got this frame cheap and figured it should be decent to try and learn a few things on, I'm not going hardcore any thime soon so will be good. These are the first spring forks i have ever had, they are a little soft now, needing a bit more preload to take my weight but the eta is good locking them down to the last 25mm of travel, just enough to reduce landing/impact shocks up into my wrists. If I'm upgrading ill be looking at Identiti as I like their frames, or go on a quest to find a Evil Imperial. Advise on frames will be handy aswell.

Bleed from bottom to top so the air can rise, try have the lever hole at its highest, and make sure the TPA is fully wound out to get the most oil in the system as possible. I cant think of anything else, i just bled mine this week.