DYAKOV
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Posts posted by DYAKOV
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2 hours ago, MikeCottTrials said:
I have an echo brake which I have just bath bled. As soon as I move the lever off bike the cyclinders move. So as far as I know the bleed seems to be good.
I have set the pads up close to the rim, close enough for me to be unable to slide a 1p in that gap.
However when pulling the lever it comes all the way to the bar with almost no resistance as demonstrated in the linked video.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/H1gUPUxnAxYNdsYM7
Any ideas on what could be the problem?
If you bath bled the brake (properly), then you shouldn’t have any air whatsoever in the system. Or if there is a wee bubble, it should be so tiny that it wouldn’t affect the brake’s performance.
Time to check all seals and bolts. My guess is that your lever is leaking through the piston (need new o-rings if not a new piston altogether); or the bleeding screw on the lever / bleeding bolt on the slave cylinder aren’t tight enough; or you have a snapped hose - look around all barbed fittings and shroud nuts for leaking.
The last possible issue would be if the brake lever and slave cylinders weren’t compatible e.g. brake lever not pushing enough volume of fluid to the slaves.
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18 hours ago, Canardweb said:
I am sorry but I haven't understood which screws should be tightened or operated. Is it possible to post pics for future use? Thanks
Here mate:
Loosen 1, then push 2 all the way down, then tighten 1 again, so it properly holds 2 in place. You can also pull out 2 to see if there are any indentations which might affect the grip..
It did help and minimised the wobble but there is still a tiny bit of play as you can see in the second clip. It’s nothing too frightening but compared to a hashtagg lever I have on my other bike which has absolutely zero play, it slightly annoys me still.
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4 hours ago, aliao said:
This is pretty typical. Over time, the set screws on the end of the lever that tighten the blade down to the lever pivot loosen up a bit and slide down the lever pivot. You can see in your video that the lever blade is moving, but the lever pivot is not.
If you want to get rid of the play, all you have to do is loosen the set screw slightly, push the pivot bolt down from the top so it bottoms out on the lever body and then tighten up the set screw again. Be careful not to strip out the set screw head or threads when you're loosing and tightening it. If it's giving you a hard time when trying to loosen it, use a bit of heat from a hairdryer to soften up the loctite and use a fresh allen key so you don't strip out the bolt head.Hey bud, thanks very much for the tip! It worked and minimised the wobble although there is still a tiny bit of play and the pivot bolt is moving as seen in the clip below:
It’s definitely much better than what it was and won’t bother me to the extent of replacing the levers. Do you know if those plastic washers are available to buy anywhere?
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I bought a pair of used trialtech carthy levers some time ago. They work well but I’ve noticed a bit of play in the blades with one being way too wobbly for my liking.
I was wondering if this is to do with worn seals/bushings around the pivot bolts and wether these are available to buy anywhere; or is that a result of old damage where the lever body might have deformed a bit?
Anybody had the same issues with trialtech levers and any fixes at all?
Cheers,
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Any update on this? I’m facing the same issue and it’s so annoying. I’ve thought to heat up the tip of a flat screwdriver and try to bend the wee pins in, so they form a tighter grip. Alternatively try and salvage the braking compound and transfer that onto cnc backings (hope I don’t ruin them).
Somewhere I read that people use blue tac in the hole but it doesn’t seem like it’s going to be any better..
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12 hours ago, MaderaMark said:
just learning pedal kick from static to more than bike length.... then boom...
You’re lucky it didn’t snap over a drop gap. Get yourself kmc z1ehx chain and don’t use the split link. You’ll be fine
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I remember back in the day lots of people spoke highly of truvativ givapipe. Think they’re a bit heavier than trials specific bb’s but I haven’t seen a broken one (they’re intended for downhill, so must be good quality). Also trialtech bb’s are good.
I remember that echo first bb axles used to snap a lot. Also I’m not a massive fan of the press fit bb’s.
Lastly, you could try and find external adapters for BB30 bearings and run a BB30 bb like clean or crewkerz.
What kind of a bike is it going on?
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Don’t know if anyone has noticed but @Pisankahas been uploading old videos on his YouTube channel. This one is a killer!
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I never use open links no matter what. Replace that with a standard link and you’ll be fine.
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I’m using home made adapters and they work pretty well. Why don’t you try and make your own? It’s good fun and you can experiment with the design..
I have some spares incl a full v-brake setup and I have alu material + pivot bolts as well if you wanted to try and chisel a set.. let me know if interested?
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Super glue the pad material into the backing. Just make sure to be quick before it dries and only apply super glue to the base/bottom of the backing, avoid spreading glue to the side walls because the pad will get stuck to it and you’ll have a hard time trying to push it all the way in.
Re pad material - as far as I know all of the tnn pads are intended to be used on a ground rim for best performance. You can experiment with the depth of the grind. LGM (green) and ADM (black) compounds seem to be the most popular ones. Or at least I haven’t heard about any other. If you’re looking for softer compound to use on a smooth rim, I’d recommend trying the jitsie blue pads or heatsink yellow pads.
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You might need a new chain tool.. I recently noticed that my chain tool isn’t 100% centred to the pin any more and it does a bit of damage to the metal plate of the chain link I’m taking apart. It hasn’t snapped on me yet but I’m definitely mindful of it. And no, I haven’t had any issues reusing the same pin again. Although I never really push the pin all the way out. If you’re in doubt, take a spare chain link off the offcut you must have left and replace the whole section. Better safe than sorry!
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On 14/08/2021 at 6:11 PM, KaidenKannon said:
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moderator to remove
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I’d say it’s all down to personal preference and style over all. Many people will say that 20” bikes are much lighter and easier to ride. But that’s only noticeable in the first few hours after coming off a bigger bike. Give it a week and once you’re used to the 20” it stops feeling that flicky.
Likewise, I recently started using my 26” more and the first couple of rides were horrible. It felt so big and heavy and slow. Then I got used to it and I can’t have enough of it.
My aim is to switch between the two and not really focus on what a bike feels like but focus on my riding itself and making the most of what bike I’m on at the time, so eventually I’m hoping to improve my skills overall.Last addition to my collection is a 24” comp bike and surprisingly that’s what I’ve been using the least. I suppose that it’s a good bridge between the other two sizes and if I didn’t have them, I’d be happy with that. But if I was to switch from either of them to the 24” there isn’t any noticeable difference in how it feels.
Anyway, I’d say get the kind of bike that you associate trials with and get used to it.
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Hi buddy, most people will suggest to try a street bike, either 24” or 26” (like the hex you’ve mentioned) which is probably the closest to what you’ve been on 20 years ago. Any of the new style comp bikes will feel alien to you but why don’t you try to look for some old deng frames circa 2006-2008? The old echo pure frame (2006ish?) had a seat and a pretty universal geometry, the 2008 pure or control are both seatless but bb height is rather neutral so won’t be too much of a shock, also those frames were made indestructible. And last advantage is that they’re old now and people would be selling them cheap.
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I’d say just practice drops and gradually increase the height? Not sure how high 4ft is (I work in centimetres) but if you’re coming from a 2ft drop straight onto a 4ft drop, you will be scared and that’s normal. Start with your comfortable height and add a few inches every time. Then it won’t seem as scary and before you know you’ll be dropping off that 4ft wall without even thinking about it.
Another issue is that it’s probably a bit too early for you to drop off major heights - and that’s quite normal too. When I first started riding I had almost 0 bike control but I would throw myself from 3 meter drops with just 2 pedal kicks like it was nothing haha I just wanted to be too good too soon. The more I ride, the more rarely I find such heights to drop off (or at least the need to), so in my case it went the other way round - I started with higher drops and I’m going lower.
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Man! That was amazing, so much power, control and playfulness, really enjoyed that!
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Woooow you’ve got some great spots there mate! Really enjoyed the video, scenery, tune.. well done!
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Remember seeing that tutorial by James Barton doing taps on a rock and he’s making it look so easy. Also, pick any old school video by Phil Williams, James Porter, Neil Tunnicliffe and the likes.. they all used to smash their front wheels way under the edge. I’ve only proper tried once and I ended up mid air in a superman position nearly smashing my face in the wall.
Having said all that, I’ve noticed that whoever does touch ups are always riding 26” bikes and walls seem pretty high too.
Following........
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On 27/12/2020 at 11:51 PM, gage-mann said:
V-L?
Not him mate. It’s Michal Nowak, a big name in Poland together with @Pisanka
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That’s definitely my all times favourite. So playful and creative, always makes me want to go out and ride!
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16 hours ago, Rhett said:
Hello everyone. I've just got two new magura hs33 brakes for Christmas and two sets of Coustellier pads to go with them. It's all steup now and the brake work amazingly well however when either the front or back brake is locked on I can feel a bit of play when i rock the wheel fowards and back like the pad is moving on the actual caliper because it is a loose fit or something. It is a very small movement but enough to annoy me when I'm on the back wheel.Has anyone else had a problem like this with these pads or any pads on Magura brakes? Have I done something wrong whilst putting the pads on the caliper? Anything Helps
Thanks
What kind of clamps do you use? If not washerless ones, is it possible that you’ve got some worn seals which might be causing the play? Even though plastic backings aren’t as stiff as the metal ones I don’t think there should be that much play so it’s noticeable when on rear wheel.. I mean we’re speaking about 1-2mm play
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Not too sure but I think I bought some rockman carbon bars from you some time ago. I sold them to a guy who’s now selling them again. I know with carbon bars you need to be careful as they get weaker with time but those seemed to hold pretty well and if they were in fact yours I can link you up to the guy?
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Posted · Edited by DYAKOV
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