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Luke_zoo

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Posts posted by Luke_zoo

  1. As long as you only drill the heads off the rivet and don't increase the hole size I don't see why you couldn't rivet the new ones in place as long as the mounting holes are the same!

    ah right I know if the mounting hole are not the same could soon drill them if they can be drilled.

  2. First off, I own a 1.4 Quicksilver, and I have been looking at my front door speakers and rear (standard ones) that come with the car, They are riveted in? I would like to know, has anybody drilled the rivets out and replace with better speakers and riveted them back in?

    Nottoo sure what I need to look for ect, easy to do?

    Never done this before,

    Help,

    Cheers,

    Luke

  3. Take said bolt out and chech the bolt threads. If theyre fine, its the frames mounts.

    Drill out whats left of the threads, tap it a size up from the bolt and whack a helicoil in there.

    Will return it to its original thread size and be Stronger (Y)

    I had to do this in my Pythons mounts. All 4 had stripped when I bought it (The owner conveniently forgot to mention this) so I helicoiled them. No issues at all!

    Ah right easy to do or? Ive had my python heilcoiled to m6 but guy who has done it made it look a mess :( so abit unsure

  4. Hello All,

    I have been riding MTB's for a while now and have decided to give Trials a go. I have been doing some research and to get the kind of bike i want i am looking to build one myself. Just a few things i am unsure of, i am thinking of going for 24" wheel's but im not sure what size frame i want? Does this depend on my size?

    My overall budget for the built is around the £350 - £400 mark but over time the excitment might push this up a bit. Also as its my first trials bike the frame and other parts will be taking some stick/damage so i dont want to be spending loads on these part's as eventually i will upgrade them. With that in mind i still want them to be decent part's for a beginner.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated,

    Many Thanks,

    Chris.

    Drop me a pm, Il soon sort you out with 24/26inch old school trials frame. i ran it as 24inch with rear disc.

  5. Thin one gives a nice light grind, whereas a thick one will give a more harsh deeper grind. ( Chews your pads quicker ) ;)

    Looks like il be buying thick ones then as I have thin ones and it only last like a ride so have to use tar lol

  6. Don't use tar with a grind.

    The inspired pads are super soft so the grind would have to be stupidly light, they're still amazing pads even on smooth rims.

    Whats up with using tar on a grind?

  7. Hey,

    could you help me on what is the best way to get a vee brake to be sharp as anything? Going to grind my front rim. I've got come inspired pads on order, and would like to know what is best set up for it to be sharp grips very good ect, use tar? If so, where can I get tar from? Other then side of a road!.

    thanks, Luke

  8. Nope, you need to push the drive rings, spring and bearings out through the drive side.

    This might help you understand whats going on in there :)

    Chris_King_rear_hub_cutaway.jpg

    Not to sure how I would do it :(, looks hard? so put a lilttle blunt pole into non drive side? and hit untill it pops out?

  9. You will need a blunt object that will fit through the non drive side of the hub, Something like a thin rod of metal,a socket extension or a large wooden dowel. You want to push the spring plate onto the drive and driven rings and bearings. Tap around the edge of the spring plate in a circular motion slowly to remove the bearing carefully. If your going to stretch it dont over do it and deform it, A few centimeters will be fine. Use a few blocks of wood and a G clamp to press the bearings back in.

    Is there not a way I can do it with just the drive side?

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