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cardenas_26trials

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Posts posted by cardenas_26trials

  1. What size is your rotor?

    160mm

    Do you have any pictures of your setup please?

    img0002wc.jpg

    It is the best I can offer for the moment haha, sorry. Later I'll update better ones

    just a thought mate, don't take this the wrong way but have you got the disk on the right way round?

    As far as I'm aware, it is on the right way round....

    Thanks guys!

  2. a lad I ride with has a trial zone on the rear of his rockman Austin, with the 160 trial zone rotor. as far as I know, he is problem free. and his make a funny squeaking/grinding noise when he uses them. they do feel good though

    Is he running the PM or IS caliper version? I have a friend who runs the PM version without any problems. Maybe it has something to do with that? who knows :P

  3. Hello everybody,

    Well I bought a Trial Zone rear brake (IS mount) about two months ago (installed on a ZOO! lynx) which came with the original Hope trial zone rotor.

    It worked really well, had loads of bite and hold, etc. but, once when I did a gap to rear wheel, the rotor bent (I really did several tries to make it straight again or at least usable, which didn´t work out). After that, I had to use a shimano rotor for about a month until I ordered a new Hope one (It was really good actually, but just not the same! and made a lot of weird noises haha).


    Thing is, the new hope arrived about 4 days ago off tartybikes (happy times!), I got it installed, nicely centred, everything tight and ready.... Lasted three days of riding, same thing happened. Gap to rear wheel to bent rotor :mellow: I DID NOT hit it, it was a gap, I,ve got a protector and I'm left footed. Also there are no marks on the disc.

    My conclusion? The trial zone rotor is too weak to be used on the rear wheel. I just can't get another explanation for it. In fact I haven't seen many pro riders using it (except Theau Courtes). My setup was correctly installed, I insist. The wheel was spinning freely and the brake lever had a beautiful feel. Also, I'm not a heavy rider, I'm about 64kg (141 lbs).

    It is really frustrating and annoying, now I'll have to order another stiffer rotor which can perform well and wait for about a month or more (delivery to Chile isn't the fastest). I obviously will try to make it straight again, but it won't be the same. And I know it will bend again (will move it to the front)

    Has anybody of you had similar experiences? Or I'm doing something wrong :( ? And, what other options do I have? My best bet I think is the original Hope Trial rotor or an Avid maybe? Help please! any advice will be heard...

    Sorry for the excessive parentesis :P
    Cheers from Chile!
    Esteban.

  4. So here she is:

    bicif.jpg

    So, I've just done the change from maggie to disc. It is different, as you can expect... the mayor problem is to hit the rotors (running a shimano on the rear because of bendind the original) even tough im left footed (currently transforming a bash plate into a protector). But well, the hold that it brings is amazing, and it's quiet!

    Spec:

    ZOO! Lynx 2012

    Echo Urban forks

    Try-all cranks

    Echo 72 freewheel

    Neon bar and stem

    Hope Trial Zone Rear brake + 160mm shimano rotor

    Old Shimano Deore Front brake + 160 mm alligator rotor

    Rear Zhi Hub on Echo TR rim, Maxxis tyre

    Front Shimano disc hub on unknown rim, Kenda tyre

    For Hope brake users:

    is it normal to have a play on the brake pads on the caliper? I was told to wait for a couple of days until they bed in properly, but I've been riding it for about two weeks and it keeps like that...

    Cheers guys! thanks :)

  5. Hello everyone,

    I'm thinking on buying the try-all 160mm cranks but the thing that puts me away is that they cannot be installed with a bashring. Is there a 100% of posibilities that I strip the threads of the cranks using them with it? do you know any case where this has been tested with no problems? also, if there is a strong posibility that i damage the cranks, what may I modify to ride it anyways?

    thanks,

  6. Hey guys,

    Im going to buy a rear disc brake in a while and i'm not sure on which one should I pick. Also, I've heard some Hope brakes doesn't have a large period of life time, is this valid for every kind of Hope? Any kind of review, comment, advice, personal experience and suggestion from you is very useful!

    thanks

  7. apenas la vi pense que era de algun streetero tgs bestia jajaja muy linda. saludos desde argentina... a cambiar ese manubrio

    ajajaja nada de bestia por el momento, pero de a poco se mejora no? el manubrio you lo cambié, ahora uso un Neon 7075 muy cómodo! saludos ^_^

    So how are you liking this bike?

    The frame feels and looks pretty solid, in comparison of other Deng's frames like the Echo Lite or Sl. Geo is also very nice, it's my first time riding something with such a high BB so it feels quite new to me. Need to buy a new chain or put in a half-link quickly, the one I'm using now has stretched so much it changed the wheel base at least 1,5-2mm which makes me feel the bike a bit long. The biggest problem was the chain hitted the upper chainstay very badly, so had to add some spacers of one side of the hub and run the chain extremely tight (N) but well, after all is a great frame, hope it lasts long :)

    cheers!

  8. I started sidehoping to the same side of my foot and when I reached a good height, I changed to the other side. Obviously it felt weird and the beginning but with practice you can master it and you WILL sidehop higher. The benefit of this, is that you have "tried" both ways and you get able to manage different side situations.

  9. Got the frame about one month ago, also changed the rear rim and hub.

    zoo2012.jpg

    Zoo! lynx 2012 frame

    Echo urban v-brakes fork

    Echo TR rim on ZHI disc rear hub at the back with Maxxis Creepy Crawler

    Echo TR rim on Echo TR non disc at the front with Kenda Small Block 8 (1.95)

    Echo 72 points freewheel

    Echo old bashring

    Echo ISIS cranks

    Echo TR lever with Magura cylinders, Echo 4 bolt booster and Atomz pads

    Amoeba stem and handlebars (N)

    Will change stem and bars tomorrow... cranks, pedals, chain, bashring and rear brake also will be changed soon.

    Cheers from Chile :)

    • Like 1
  10. Hits chainstay or seatstay? Which exact chain, rear hub and rear sprocket, cranks, bb, bashring/plate?

    Upper chainstay,

    YBN single speed chain (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-YBN-MK747-MK-747-Single-Speed-BMX-Bicycle-Bike-Chain-1-2-x-1-18-Silver-/290637576907)

    Echo TR hub

    Echo tr 12t sprocket

    Echo TR isis cranks (http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/cranks_pair/echo_tr/c514p11196.html)

    Echo freewheel

    Echo SL bashring

    thanks for the replies guys!

  11. Hello everybody,

    Well, a friend of me has a zoo! 2012 frame and he says that the chain hits the chainstay all the time because there isn't enough space between them. I almost sure he has a KMC kool chain, which is pretty big. Has anyone here tried this frame and had the same trouble? Also, would a thinner chain solve the problem entirely?

    Thanks!

    Esteban

  12. - Fully constructed from tough U6 aluminium, as proven by Echo and ZOO, with super-stiff CNC machined Chain and Seatstay yokes.

    - Thicker tubes than most frames for increased frame life and dent resistance, also makes the frame stiffer for superb power transfer!

    - Bracing plates between the top and down tubes also increase front end stiffness, perfect for getting the most out of the bike when front tapping and hooking.

    - Takes standard 1 1/8" headset.

    - Dedicated 4-bolt Magura mounts as standard on the frame, with built in booster for maximum brake stiffness and control.

    - Bashplate-less design offers excellent weight saving benefits.

    - Sculpted 3D CNC machined one-piece chainstay/BB yoke offers excellent tyre and freewheel clearance and help create a super strong frame.

    - Integrated chain-stop boss on the driveside chainstay yoke prevents unwanted chain stretching and/or damage from obstacles.

    - Toptube and downtube gussets at the headtube join provide excellent strength and stiffness.

    - Unique CNC sculpted dropouts offer excellent strength, weld contact area and looks.

    - Ultra compact frame design offers excellent stand over clearance with a frame height of just 4.5".

    - Brushed aluminium and lacquered finish resists scratches and looks classy!

    - 110mm long head tube.

    - weight 1.811kg/3.9lbs

    Geometry

    Wheelbase: Short 1000mm, Long 1030mm

    Chainstay Length: 362mm

    BB Rise: 60mm

    Head Angle: 72 degrees

    Centre of BB shell to top centre of head tube: Short 595mm (23.5"), Long 615mm (24.25")

    Thanks buddy! really looked for it everywhere, thanks again :)

    cheers!

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