cardenas_26trials

Hello everybody, Just sharing with you my last video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qRkk0OESrOU Hope you enjoy it, cheers Esteban

I don't like Echo's because of the weight and the width. I've been using a Neon light at the rear for almost a year now and it's going perfect. Even though it's single walled I personally think it's much more stronger than a Echo. For example when I run a TR, it was very common to break the wall that goes in contact with the spoke nipple, it was also cracked in the same spot all across the rim. I'm not really sure on the grinding hold, anyway this is the one: http://www.trial-bikes.com/llanta-trasera-neon-47mm-p-536394.html don't really love the look of it, but it's something I can get over.

Enjoy and leave your comment It will have better quality next time, I promise CHeers from Chile

After getting my bike in a DOT bath, several bleeds and trying every method I've heard, read, or imagined, I came to the conclusion that there must be something wrong with the brake. So I'll buy a bunch of replacements for it and the Hope bleed kit and see what happens. I even think it's something related to the lever. Well, at least there is no more play on the pads thanks everybody! you can close this topic I suppose

All the times I bleed it with the pistons back, when I put the pads back and pull the lever, the bite point is nearly touching the handlebar . Also, I don't have the bottle from the bleed kit, I use a directly connected syringe instead, does it make any difference? I use Dot 5.1 brake fluid if it matters. Can I have a step by step guide of what you said? Got a little confused haha, sorry Any other aspect that can be causing this problem? I'm quite desperate right now thanks

Well, the rotor is not 100% straight, I'll upload a video soon. Then which is the best method to get air out? and when I bleed it, should the pistons be out, in, or don't move them at all? THANKS!

The rotor is straight. It was installed about two weeks ago, brand new. No hits until now also

In my case, the distance that travels the blade from non-braking to braking is getting larger, not the reach . Something like the BPC on Tech levers. It's hard to explain haha

Did what Adam said, sanded the whole backing until it was bright. Worked really really well for the first ride but now it has a little click. I'm getting crazy now. Also, the bite point of the lever gets closer to the handlebar with use. Does this mean it is leaking or can it be anything else? Sorry for bothering this much, I just want my bike to work well cheers!

This expanded my universe. I'll sand and clean it better then

Loved that last move!

Received my answer today and I could only fill a form a send them the pads for inspection to know if I would or not have a warranty. As I live in the other side of the ocean it'd be better to buy another set of pads than paying shipping and waiting who knows how much time to maybe have a set for free. By now, the pads still click when I make a gap, pedal up or when I drop off obstacles. Even though it's a lot smaller and less frequent than it was before, which is good. I think I'll ride for a week or maybe two and see if it disappears completely, if not I will use the method crilin202 mentioned, duck tape is always welcome What makes them not shifting horizontally inside the caliper? Again, thanks everybody for your replies, they all are very helpful!

Well I'll email them and see what happens

Did that before you post it haha, did it make any problems after you sanded it?

Bought two Trial Zone rotors and both of them bended without hitting, Mono Trial one is great though! Bought it off from tarty and waited almost two months for everything to arrive, so anyway it can't be an option I think it was at the end of the list of possible solutions haha I'd like to see between brand new pads if there is really a difference there, any help on this? They are sir! All the backings dimensions were exactly the same. Everything else looked in order It happened to me also, they are just very weak. The major problem is the distance, I don't want to spend money and time on shipping even though it would be the best solution. Thanks everybody for your replies. To let you know the problem now seems to be solved, I ended up cleaning everything inside the caliper and sanded the backing of the pad and the magnet ( why not? ) and it looks now that the play is becoming smaller. I still don't know why the Standard pads suffered so much damage on the retention pin hole and that nobody ever had the same problem, for a moment I thought it would be pretty common . Anyway, thank you again for your respones, I'll write again if somethins happens Cheers guys!