Eddyboy123
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Posts posted by Eddyboy123
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If your changing the size of your disks remember that you might need adapters!
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Sweet ass kick stand
It's only on there because all it's been used for recently is getting to work
forgot to take it off last time i went for a proper ride, smashed it!
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Here's my bike... it's a 2009 Mongoose Tyax Super
Pic 1:
Pic 2:
Full Spec:
Frame: XL Mongoose 6061Aluminum w/ Trail Tested geometry, Zero Stack head tube and replaceable hanger
Fork: Suntour XCR RL mag lower, 100mm travel, preload and rebound adjust w/ remote lock out
Crankset: FSA Alpha Drive forged alloy (22/32/42T)
Bottom Bracket: FSA sealed cartridge
Pedals: Mongoose alloy platform
Front Derailleur: Suntour XCM202
Rear Derailleur: SRAM X5
Shifters: SRAM X5 triggers 24 speed
Freewheel: Shimano HG30 11-32T, 8-speed cassette
Chain: KMC Z72
Rims: Alex TD24 disc specific double wall
Front Hub: Formula Disc Alloy QR 32H
Rear Hub: Formula Disc Alloy QR and freehub 32H
Spokes: 14G stainless
Wheels: Kenda Komodo (26 x 2.1)
Brake Levers: Promax Hydraulic
Brakes Front+Back: Promax Hydraulic Q3 + 160mm Rotors
Handlebar: Mongoose alloy riser 31.8x30x685 mm
Stem: Mongoose alloy 31.8 x 110 mm
Grips: Mongoose Dual density Kraton w/ gel insert
Saddle: WTB Speed V sport
Seat Post: Mongoose alloy w/ micro adjust clamp
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I also wouldn't want to run 203 rotors with quick release axles!
The forces a disk brake has on an axle can cause it to move around in the drops outs. These forces would be much higher with a 203 rotor so I personally wouldn't run 203 rotors without bolt through axles!
I would personally go 180 front and 160 rear, this will be more than enough for everything apart from DH. Saying that, I ran that size rotor setup on Shimano XT brakes in the Alps for 1 week and didn't have any major braking issues!
Yeah thats what i was thinking now, just need to find some cheap rotors
Edit: i'm thinking these rotors:
http://www.readytoridecycles.co.uk/180mm-alligator-starlite-disc-brake-rotor-218-p.asp
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cheap rotors here... and cheap adapters here... why do you want bigger rotors? why 203mm? if you bent a 160, theres more chance of you hitting a 203mm rotor... they're heavier to. go for 180, most trials riders get the performance they need out of 180/185. 203 is excesive unless your riding DH and your having issues with over heating...
for the front you'll want a PM-PM F180 (or F200...)
for the year you'll want an IS-PM F180 (or 200)
thanks for the advice, probably will just go to a 180mm.
the reason is I want a bit more stopping power.
Edit: also does the shape of the rotor make much difference?
and for rear do you mean IS-PM R180 not F180?
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Hey everyone
I am looking at upgrading the size of the disk brakes on my mountain bike (Mongoose Tyax Super '09).
This bike came with 160mm rotors so I am looking at upgrading to 203mm's at the lowest price possible (hopefully only needing to buy adapters and rotors, not callipers). Already have a bent rotor so might aswell
What different adapters would I need to buy and how do I need to fit them?
Front:
Back:
Back 2, please note the adapter already there:
Any help would be much appreciated
Thanks
James E
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thanks man,
hopefully haha
Keep the comments coming !
wow. your really good
how long have you been riding ?
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I live in Tiverton but don't ride here at all really, as I've found bugger all thats much good.
Usually head down to Sidmouth if i've got a few hours, Seaton, Lyme Regis if i have a few more hours, Portland or Dartmoor if I have all day.
hi
You don't live to far away from me then... im a willand boy
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In the related videos bit...
For real?
this is for real
i know someone who does it
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i like it to. and have to agree with Rob it is miles better than there current website.
good luck. hope they reply and use it
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I reckon all new people signing up should be forced to have a pop up of the rules everytime they start a topic.
if it was an actual popup then quite a few people would not be able to see it due to pop up blockers.
maybe that it is put above the boxes for putting new topics in
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Plymouth massive signing in! Also ride Dorset a lot. Happy to ride Exeter as only a quickish drive or train ride away. Get down to plymouth next weekend, big rude happening
cool. i would try to get down but i dont have anythig to ride or a way to get there :/
how old are you?
what bike do you ride? (just curious)
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Hey guys, i know this forum is for push bike trials but a few months ago my brother asked me to make an edit for his motorbike trialing and i looked around youtube and trials-central and i couldnt find many motor trials videos that have been edited like this, so i wanted to know what you guys think to this video.
The video is on youtube, so feel free to leave comments, rate and favour if you like it. All feedback is welcome, thanks.
nice video. your brother is really good
I used to do motorbike trials, i was terrible to be honest, i didn't have the weight or energy required for it, i would have loved to carry on with it but at the time i used my mums partners land, and they split up so that didn't work out.
I used to have an old 'fantic' 125 and i hated it with a passion. i then bought a 'gasgas' 125 and loved it. but my favourite bike i had was a home-made one it was a really old touring bike completely stripped down with a wooden seat and a massive petrol tank, i don't think i liked it so much because it was good, more because i had spent time helping to make it.
your brother is very good at it , don't let him quit! it would be a shame.
this is by far my favourite motorbike trials video : ....trials....
love that video aswell
and the music is one of my favourite songs
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Cut/Pasted from another post I made:
My personal take on things (which many may not agree with)
20 - you like to do a lot of static things like gaps and sidehops...pretty much things from a standstill. Easier to throw around on natty because of size and weight, but you also get the disadvantage of a smaller wheel on the natty not rolling as easy.
26 - Feels more like a regular bike, but not. Better for rolling things where you can really take advantage of the large wheel size like taps, etc. You can be a bit more sloppy on the stock and not pay for it (taps really suck the ass on a mod). Going big seems like it take a bit more effort from static, but rolling things like pedal-ups, etc seem to work out a little better.
24 - I don't think there are enough geometry differences/choices on the 24market to really categorize it as anything other than streety spinny BMX type stuff.
Obviously, you can do anything on any bike, street on a mod, streety stuff on a stock, pure trials on a 24 etc, but that's what I've found personally each "size" does.
thanks for that.
really appreciate it
i think im swinging towards stock bikes from what ive heard but will try and have a go on both and then see what i want
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I'm almost 100% sure that everything has been decided and confirmed for the 2012 olympics, even if the stadium isn't even complete yet, haha.
would definitely be a good sport to watch though. sure quite a few of the people watching would get quite inspired
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No not really, they would be ok for learning the basics but nothing more.
To be quite honest, if you're worried about damaging your bike trials may not be the sport for you, most second hand bikes you see on this forum will have dents and scratches.
Damage and trials go hand in hand, i'm affraid its one of the downsides of the sport.
This is another reason for buying second hand, it doesn't hurt so much when you scratch it.
im not really worried as such it's just thinking of paying about £700 and then scratching it. both my other bikes had quite a bit of damage within weeks of buying them but they werent quite that expensive.
i guess i should go second hand until i think im good enough to pay out that sort of money.
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If they mind you trying the bikes before you buy them I wouldn't concider buying from them.
As i said before its all up to you and how you feel on the bike.
If there is a shope local to you with both sized go and try them out, it will be quickly apparent.
there is a shop a couple of miles away i think so i will try and get down there in the week as it is half term so i have no school
thanks for all your help much appreciated
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Thats almost brand new so i wouldn't expect it to be cheap.
£500-700 I reckon. If not more.
The Ashton Justice is a very nice bike. With that spec you wouldn't need to upgrade anything, thats straight in at the top.
yeah i guessed it wasn't going to be cheap and i think it would be throwing myself in a bit high as i probably would be a bit worried about damaging it as it would be my first time riding trials on a trials bike.
i have done the odd bit of kind of trials on my old 26" which is smaller and my bmx but i suppose that isn't much good for the real thing.
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20" bikes are obviously alot smaller, they can also be alot more flicky and easier to throw around.
The parts tend to be cheaper and 20" wheels/ forks are harder to break purely because of the size.
26" bikes are bigger, and people tend to progress onto them.
The best thing to do is to ride someone elses bike, both mod and stock and decide which you prefer.
If you don't know anyone who rides then its gonna have to be what you prefer the look of.
Coming from MTB 26 or 24" bikes will probably feel more familiar, but 20" bikes may be easier to learn on.
I know its not very clear, but its hard to be clear on something thats almost totally personal preferance.
half the problem is that i own both a 20" bmx and a 26" mountain bike so im not quite sure.
i prefer the geo of my mtb as i prefer to ride it but i know that it will be different for a trials bike.
do you think any stores selling different sizes would mind if i tried them out ?
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For a first bike i'd cheap and second hand, this means that if you really can't get into it then selling it on wont loose you to much money.
You also get alot more for your money.
Buying parts can be very cheap if you know what your looking for, as your quite new to the sport it can be harder to gauge the value of certain things.
Spend some time looking in the classifieds, post what you like the look of in here and i'm sure people will be happy to help.
thanks for the advice
i have been keeping my eye out on the classifieds
is a DB Ashton Justice any good? and what price are they likely to sell for as i have found this one on ebay ( http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220555659763&_trkparms=tab%3DWatching )
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I didn't say your question is dumb.
That bike is for trAils not trials.
Its a common mistake.
what is the difference apart from the capital A?
that might be a stupid question
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i have watched the tarty video but still cant decide on wheel size because then say that 20" is best for beginners but 26" is good for people coming from mountain biking and i am both of them.
so what difference does the wheel size actually make in terms of riding and technique and difficulty to learn ?
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http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/media.html?group=guides
Have a look at some of those vids mate. I'd start with this one: http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/media.php?group=guides&id=8
thanks for that !
do you think for a first bike buying is better of is it better to build a simple and cheap bike as i do have quite a lot of biking expierience and know-how and am not looking for anything to fancy?
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yer.. http://www.sadpad.com/index.htm I don't think you can buy anything from it though..
Cheers
Might go have a look seeing as it's half term so i might go to town.
any good spots you know of anywhere?
Brake Rotor Size Upgrade
in Bike Chat
Posted
Can anyone give me a hand and help find me some new pads online? and also how do i change the pads, thought it's better to get new ones with new disks