japslap
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Posts posted by japslap
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Not sure if this is much help but my first normal echo CNC rim brake leaked from the seals in the callipers, when I'd take the pads out there would be oil on the back of them, I sent it back to tarty after about 2 months and they replaced both the callipers under warranty and re-bled it, never leaked after that.
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Here's a bomb proof project I've kinda been working on it's a 2001 Grossman-project fdt (Dual Slalom / Dirt) frame, Grossman where a German company but don't think they're still running think they we're bought over by someone else but not entirely sure, All the bits are kind of thrown on at the moment to save them lying about, and stop them getting damaged, it can take 24" or 26" wheels. Again as with my Pashely frame in the bike pics thread thought someone might want to see a bit of history in a frame you don't see about to often
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Its freezing. I need pyjamas. And wearing boxers to bed is a bit gay.
So the non gay thing is to wear pyjamas and go commando?
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Are you dumb?
The topic is asking, What Did You Get For Christmas.
I think I'm dumb, I thought the thread was "Did anybody get any bike bits for Christmas?" dam sorry everyone!
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shy D. has a cracker of a way on this thread http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....=146420&hl=
...................of course you'd already know that because he's posted it on here for you
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Probably not necessary to spend so much, but if you must buy or want a king try this link - http://www.aspirevelotech.com/Merchant2/me...CFdYB4wodumJvew they also accept paypal
The site also has an ebay store (AspireVeloTech) which would give you more buyer protection if buying through pay pal, an example of an ebay sale would be the steel Chris king headset for about £100 but a note is that this one is double length of a normal headset for extra straight but won't fit a frame that dose not have a fully milled out head tube.
They accept paypal, but do yourself a favour and spend a bit more on insurance for shipping. If you need to work out the exchange rate to see what you need to pay and have pay pal account go to your pay pal account and click send money, put in the amount in $ and it should work out it out in £ for you, as far I know the amount it works out should include pay pals exchange fee's although don't quote me on that.
Having said all that, I use hope headsets on a couple of my bikes and I quite like them. although I have seen a cup crack on a guy who dirt jumps with a big heavy beast of hard tail (brooklyn machine works) but It didn't put me off hopes I seen the abuse the guy had put it through landing on the flat after the transition of the jumps time and time again!
Is it the first headset to go into the frame? whether it is or not check out this thread I found, I thought it was quite informative http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....showtopic=96527
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Chain reaction have been sick for me, they were shit hot at delivering. They made one mistake in 4 years of me using them though - instead of a sora rear mech they sent me a dura-ace front mech. Needless to say I can sell that to buy two more sora mechs
yea they're usually pretty good-seem to have a sale on pretty much all the time, they take paypal and it's free delivery, as being in northern Ireland most bike shops in England have to charge to get things over here as there free post (if they have it) is mainland only. But I'm waiting to hear back about the trials calliper piston as they did say they'd try and order one for me, figured I'd let them run about and do the work before I tried anywhere else. The show room is pretty nice it's about 45 mins away from me and it's just bling heaven for bikers compared to any other bike shops over here.
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A blast from the past Pashely 26Mhz
This is my old Pashely, It now hangs on my bedroom wall, a trophy in a way, although I'm thinking about building it back up again, it's near mint with just a chip out of the powder coat on the outside of the lower chain stay and a bit of tire rub on both sides just through the powder coat as you can see, take note on the way I customised the www.pashely.co.uk stickers on the down tube for a laugh (sorry pashely I still love you really). It was a great frame when I used it, made from Reynolds 853 made it so springy I've never been on anything like it since. Thought someone might appreciate seeing one again.
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I've bin ridin mine for years, no problems at all.
sweet!!-glad to hear it and so it should last for years with the price of the king parts, I guess I was just put off by the experience
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Nothing wrong with alloy driveshell.
Well nothing wrong if your using it for cross country I suppose, I had one on my last king here's a pic, check out the middle spine on the drive shell, hardly noticeable but there's a hair line crack in it (
), that was after a months riding and after every ride when I was checking the pre-load for the bearings I would check the lock nut was the correct torque. I'm using Stainless steel axle and drive shell all the way from now on, but each to there own was just saying it seems worth the investment to me, but in saying that kings' warranty came through, and after sending this pic off they told me to send it back and replaced with a stainless steel one in the end, so big up Chris (just don't tell him it was used for trials)
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I had the excuse of Christmas........... and used it to buy myself a rear Chris King ISO in black with a stainless steel freebody (thank god because the alloy free body is shockingly disappointing)! Thanks Santa
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(Shy D.) Thats pretty cool man-sweet
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Bit of a piss take really. Odd, chain reaction are normally legends.
yea they can be OK, but wait if you ever need to replace a hope trials brake piston, from a brake you bought off them, they'll point you in the direction of hope, but hope will point you to the direction of ANY shop that sells hope trials brakes, except chain reaction
sorry to jump in there it just caught my eye about snail reactions
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Yeah all the small things dialled m8, zap tap , bunny hops , track stand , rocking just not for the life of me get pedle kicks every ones els can do them : / just me i guess
well I wouldn't worry if you've all that dialled in the space of two weeks then you must be doing something right, don't get down about it and stick with it, always look at what you've achieved so far and not what you haven't! Have you practised doing small pedal kicks while track standing to raise your front wheel?
learn to pedal kick up to rear position, then pedal kicking forward will come easy. Then practice, practice , practice. When you get tired or burned out, work on something else then come back to it and practice some more. Good LuckCouldn't agree more, good call
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Hey, guys im sean been rideing about 2 weeks now and cant pedle kick for my life, been looking on vids www.youtube.com but they do them too fast for me to see whats going on ... :/ just wondering if you guys could write a few tips for me, would be most appreciated
thanks all best sean
![=]](https://www.trials-forum.co.uk/uploads/turned.gif)
Happy new year, hope you all have a goooooood one!!!
hey there, happy new year to you, so you've been riding two weeks!? have you learnt track standing and the small things first? The reason I ask is that even the small things like getting track standing and balance dialled will make pedal kicks and other moves easier.
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There's guy does trials near where I'm from, he managed to get a free ride to the hospital in an ambulance after his foot slipped off his pedal and split his shin bone, now he sports quite a large scar down his shin but I guess that's OK because chicks dig scars apparently! In saying that, you do slip less as you progress, I don't really where them any more and the guy who's shin spilt still doesn't.
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Yeah a tyre would be alright i think, i'll try it, thanks for the tip
Where do they sell downtube protectors? i've never seen them before, are they just like big lizard skins?Their used to be a down tube protector on the market called an "armadillo" its was only about 6-8 inches long, it was thick material that attached with Velcro at the top of the tube which has 4 or 5 plastic rods down the centre of it to cover the bottom part of the down tube. You could position it anywhere on you down tube and the idea was that when you hit something the plastic rod broke and absorbed the impact, haven't seen them for a while, I try not to worry about my frames in that way any more, life's to short the first chip is the worst and all that and frames look so much better when they've not got things attached to them but I know how you feel.
Just remembered there's a company called toxsin that make some pretty sweet things for trials they've got a tube protector I think try - http://www.toxsin.co.uk/?cat=12 for there trials gear
or there Wackstick at link - http://www.toxsin.co.uk/?cat=31
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so do the HS33 slaves and ECHO lever work well together? I am torn between the ECHO SL and TR lever, I have set of pre-05 Maggies with a cnc blade but like the idea of a longer lever blade.
Yea man I've seen it done with the normal ECHO cnc haven't seen many using the SL or TR lever personally but I'd say it should be fine, I've seen a couple of guys (in MBUK's pitifully small trials section (no offence Martin its just the space they give you)) I'm trying to find a link of a pic now to clarify, but I'm sure if you dropped Tarty bikes an email they give you a heads up but I'd agree with Josh barker!
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wonderd what everyone thought was better either the echo CNC rim brake or the magura HS33 because im happy to pay the extra few quid on the echo but it seems most people run the HS33 so just wondered whats the best?
I changed to echo because I used to get a bit of flex in the hs33 lever - when I had fully pulled the lever down to lock the brake the whole master cylinder body would seem to flex, but with the cnc echo lever body its solid, think the cable they put on as standard is kevlar and a bit better than standard magura hose, the extra length in the lever is meant to give more power in braking.
I've a couple of sets the first one needed returned to tarty after a couple of months because there was oil seeping from behind the brake blocks, but returned to tarty they replaced callipers and re-bled the system and had it back the next day, I did ask about a spare lever pin at the same time and they didn't have one specificity for the echo brake at the time but suggested that I just used a magura one (which was a bit longer but I found the extra length give me a preferred biting point) tarty have reduced the price again to £99 although a mate picked one up from select bikes on there ebay shop over a year ago for a cracking £75 inc. P+P (just after I bought one
from tarty) although I haven't seen them at that price since.I've seen a few running the echo levers with magura callipers, on the tarty page for them it states "Designed for use with wide trials rims (42mm and over) if you have a 100mm brake mount spaced frame - the cylinders offer less inwards adjustment than Magura HS33s in order to give them more heel clearance."
sorry for the long post hope it sheds some light on things
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to be honest they're steel frames so not really worth it. They're heavy, stiffer than alluminium which is worse for trials as frames need flex in order to not snap clean in half etc.
If marino did allu frames i'd be all over one but it isnt worth it for a steel frame.
I was under the impression that steel is more springy , it is a bit heaver but the plus side is that a tube can be made thinner when its made from steel making little difference in weight, an added bonus I've found was that aluminium will snap when it fails but steel will tend to bend first giving you a warning at least. but hey I could be wrong
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Does anyone know any good websites that you can find out about bike maintenance and how bikes work.
I am hopeless with bikes and really need to learn.
Thanks
Hi, try this link - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...=sidebarContext
Its a DVD, It's cheap and its done by Martin Ashton and Martin Hawyes both pretty good trials in there day, but at that price probably worth a go!
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im just wondering what is better to have a bashplate or bashring and witch one protects better.
thanks marcus.
I'm not worried about weight on my base bike, I use it for an a to b bike, but it has the added bonus of being able to make do as a good urban trials/street bike at the same time, I've a bash ring/guard on a set of profile cranks, this also stops my jeans getting eaten and dragging my leg in by the chain on the sprocket. Can't say witch one protects better, I never really use them that much but its nice to have the plate just in case a wall connects with the non drive side/centre of my bottom bracket shell. Like I said I'm not worried to much about weight on this bike, lets just say its like running with weights strapped to your feet - when I get on my Ashton Justice which is a nice light bike with no seat etc, moves are so much easier because your used to pulling them on a heavier bike.
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Most times when i go up to a drop i get scared and chicken out but all my friends can do it no-bother.
Is it just me??
couple of points,
*get good techniques and confidence by practising- start small and work up to bigger and bigger drops.
*If your going to go off something -do it- don't think about what could go wrong or what might happen, that's where the confidence comes in-knowing you'll be able to do it because you've done it time and time before, if you did you be wasting concentration which could lead to a mistake you've enough to think about subconsciously to do a drop without thinking about that.
*the bottom line from my view is, If your going to drop don't lose your bottle and just do it don't think about it, provided you've practised and got good technique for landings dialled you should have the confidence and you can just let instinct take over.
It might be easier to find a drop off that slopes up, so that each time you drop you can go bigger.
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I have magura hs33 hydraulic rim brakes and I like to use tar but I am constantley having to borrow it from other people with me (which is fine) but sometimes im on my own and need tar but I dont have any.
So I was wondering does anyone out there know where to find or buy tar???
hi, I used tar a few years back, used to have great difficulty getting it, tried roads etc. but it was rarely thick enough to pull off the road with a great deal of success, then I realised that it is used all the time in big quantities along coastal/beach paths next to my home town, picture a foot path along the side of a beach, one which is not made from paving stones but more poured concrete (its got a sort rippled bumpy effect)! After each section of concrete is poured there is a small gap, this is where you will find your black gold, poured in the gap usually about an inch deep by an inch wide, running right along the length of the path (4 feet roughly).
An added bonus is that because your next to the beach that sometimes the tar is unable to grip the concrete properly because of the sand that got around the gap before they poured it in, so if you start at the end of the path and grab the end of the poured tar and pull it often comes off in huge quantities. The same can be said for certain types of roads which are poured concrete although because there is no sand the tar can be more difficult to get off because it binds better with the surface of the concrete.
Depending on the weather it can sometimes be soft, just leave it in the cold garage or shed it may also have sand on it on the out side but that's OK, once it feels more solid you can use it. I always found applying it easier by braking (or snapping) a block off and using the new revealed side which should be a shiny jet black colour instead of the sides that may still have sand or dirt on.
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in Beginners Trials Chat
Posted
Nice Pashley man, is that the 26Mhz? looks the same as my one, Nice to see one built up, I haven't in a while!