Maxx
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Posts posted by Maxx
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Hi,
I want to remove the white graphics (which I don't like) from both my Try-all Karbon handlebar and my Try-all Karbon fork.
The probleme is that in both case they are under the clear coat layer.
Is it safe to remove this layer, as I suppose it will be raw carbon under ?
Thanks
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Thanks ! And is it very flexy compared to Try-all cranks ? I don't know if you ever rode with them but these are the only cranks I've ever used.
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these crank feel really flexy
in which way? I'm going to build a very light bike and I was looking at these cranks but the weight afraid me a bit (compared to others light cranks)
Basically I was looking between these cranks and the new echo sl. (in 172mm and 170 or 175mm)
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I 've got a fairly simple policy of not changing parts until they break... but hey... I'll see how this chain goes.. (A)
I agree for some parts only.
A chain has to be a secure element. It's not like a wheel which breaks.
Two months ago I broke my nose on a transfert because of a chain snap. The chain (KMC Z610HX) was only 3 months old and didn't have any hits as far I'm aware (and I know how to correctly mount a chain)
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I usually keep my chains for a couple of years
You're crazy
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Ok thanks I manage to open it.
I was turning the good way (anti-clockwise) but there was loctite on the lockring so it was kind of difficult to open it with a screwdriver and hammer ...
I cleaned everything (there was load of shit) and reassembled it (spent one hour and a half, it's tricky to assemble it !) without any grease or lube because I heard grease was bad for freewheel.
I suppose grease is bad because it can prevent pawls to engage correctly in their seats ?
What sort of lube can I use ? Is normal oil good for this ?
If possible I want to keep as possible the current noise because it's louder than before.
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Hi,
I want to open a try-all freewheel (108.9) to service it, but I don't know which way I must turn the lockring ? clockwise or anti-clockwise ?
And is the lockring supposed to be hard to remove or is it not so tight ? Because I've tried in anti-clockwise direction but it don't want to come ...
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Can't tell from one picture on the internet - but I would guess some heavier cranks would still be in one piece...
I was not speaking about the cranks which are pictured in the first post, but about the whole new serie of theses cranks (Greetings says they have a desgin flaw).
I just wanted to know if there were a real problem like the first batch of Rockman cranks which tended to crack near the pedal thread
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This is true - and those Echo cranks would last me for years. It's about the customer buying the correct product for their needs.
So in the end do these cranks have manufacture default or are they just light cranks (wich can break more easily like others light parts - ti bb, ti pedals, light rims, ...) ?
I think the pic's guy broke the crank on a gap : the way the crank is crashed plus the fact he's left footed, I think the crank broke when the rear/right pedal was transmitting force to the ground (reception of a gap)
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New batch is going to be redesigned, Echo are aware of the problem.
When ?
I was planning of buying a set this week .... I don't know what to do
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Check o-ring and also remove o-ring and check if there is scratch on the surface where the o-ring is. I once made a veryyyy little scratch on this surface (hardly visible by eyes) while removing the o-ring, and it made my brake leak.
Anyway I can't see the body being the cause of the leaking, in my opinion it's necessarily the piston or o-ring. Maybe if you have piston spares you can try to put them in the brake ?
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Maybe it's the piston o-ring/body wich has been a little bit damaged when you opened the lever ?
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Both of your tyres are mounted the wrong way
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Don't really understand what you mean, but if it feels like there's increased resistance in the brake, then that could jus be the nature of using oil, given it's more viscous than antifreeze/water.
No that's not the viscosity of oil, it is like the seal were dry, sorry I don't explain very well.
Like a swollen piston but that's not (unless if antifreeze/oil mixture produce a reaction which make the piston to swell rapidly, because as I said, 2 minutes before the oil bleed the brake was fine)
Why do I need to make the brake empty ?
I've never do this when bleeding from oil to antifreeze (the inverse) and never have any problems.
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Maybe I didn't explain it very well but :
My brake was bleed with antifreeze. It worked really good, good feeling/response.
Then I bleed it with Magura Blood : it becomes almost instantly shit (and I know how to bleed, taht's not the problem)
So I don't think piston swelled up in not even 5 minutes.
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Hi,
everytime I bleed HS33's with Magura Blood after they were bleed/used with antifreeze (without problems), lever piston get stuck and give a bad feeling !
Even the bleed syringe get stuck.
I think that's seals (it's like increasement of friction), but why ? Is there a reaction between mineral oil/antifreeze which cause this ?
(I don't want to know how to fix that, just want to know why it happened)
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Track pump and bleed hose.
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Yeah I was visualing front hs33 wheel don't know why.
Of course face out will also reduce spokes tension on this side (for the same tension on the right). The best would be to have same tension on both faces.
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Face out look better, but face in theorically give you more lateral stiffness.
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But it will result in a weaker handlebar i suppose ? It's why i hesitate
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Can you post pics ?
I had tried on a small area (Try-all bars) and I think graphics are under the laquer as after the white it looks like raw carbon.
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Spoke hole offset reduce the angle of spoke between hub and rim : less lateral rigidity.
The more angle there is the more the wheel is rigid (lateral).
Offset is just good for better sharing forces on the rim (and also not to have bound or cracked rims when tension become higher on very light rims ...).
And 116mm hubs are not good for that too because compared to a 135 one they reduce also spoke angle ...
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I don't see why bigger pads apply the same pressure.
For me bigger pads = more surface, but less pressure
Smaller pads = less surface, but more pressure
But the total amount of force is the same.
F = P.S
If force behind pad is the same, in one case surface is bigger (bigger pads) so to have the same F pressure need to be lower
And in the other case the surface is smaller (smaller pads) so S is smaller so P is higher.
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Has anybody tried Heatsink Blues on ground rim ?
How are they compared to Yellows ?
I know they would wear faster but in terms of on/off braking are they good ?
how has this happened ?!
in Trials Chat
Posted
It's "normal".
It's the pads and the mounts/clamps which flex when you brake hard on the front. All people I know with front HS33 have more or less this problem.
Just make your pads flat when they're a bit too angled, because angled pads give a poor brake.