Tioz

I was just wondering..wont the fixed arm risk turning under the tension of the spring as it has no pins to hold it?

And wich one of these chains would you get as best price/quality? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Categories.aspx?CategoryID=148&SortBy=Price

Great m8! I'll have to buy a chain from halfords today What do the different measurements mean? 1/8", 3/16", 3/32"? Is any of these ok and compatible? Also do you think I should have got the long version of the tensioner?

from what I can see in the photo of the inspired he's keeping fixed arm and sprung arm practically in line..would it actually manage to give enough tension to the chain this way?The spring pushes "up" so it's not really pushing on the chain that way I seem to figure out Edit: no I figured it out and it would work fine like that ^^

I'll just have to experiment then..great thanks mate Also..how do I measure the chain to the right lenght?

What sort of angle should there be between fixed arm and sprung arm?

Thanks mate but still the same problem of not knowing how to align it

Hi guys..I've finally got to go single speed but have got a problem with setting up the tensioner The tensioner is this one: http://www.tartybike.../c48p11211.html standard version The problem comes as it has no pins so I don't know how to set it up correctly on the dropoff Photos to explain As you can see no pins Could be set like this.. Or like this

Ok other way round of my shimano then

I'd go for SD7

Yes, it's really stupid It's not like having gears will help you commute either..they're all too short for that anyway

Do maggies bleed from the caliper to the lever or the other way?

My gears are shite too..they keep jumping and the chain keeps falling..it just started on it's own two days ago.. I'd say that single speed is a priority now It feels like a wate of money to me too..but I can't ride like this

No way I'm getting one finger with the tektro..I can just lighten up the rear but it won't block I think the pads or the disc are a bit contaminated though..at the beginning they wouldn't brake and just slipped Is white spirit ok for cleaning them?

I'll tweak with that this evening..any suggestions on getting one finger braking? I'm using the stock tektro lever on this now..would another speed dial 7 do the trick?

Yes of course I consulted with carlperkins up there and we both arrived at the same conclusion that there's no way to get them working leaving the arm at rest All I'll do is keep the arm so the pad is just nearly touching the rotor like it is now..setting up like it says on the manual just doesn't work or perhaps would work if I had a BB7 and could adjust the pad clearance on both sides

unfortunately it's a bb5 so I haven't got tha moving pad adjuster..I can just do it with a barrell on the caliper So you both recon the arm should start from rest?

It's not the pads' fault..it more like the lever/cable assembly can't manage to pull them far enough as to make good contact with the rotor I've tried two different calipers and two levers and the problem is always the same..if I setup according to manual: so with the caliper centered on the rotor and the actuating arm at rest position it just can't manage to pull the pads far enough I've had to pull both adjusting barrels to the maximum and make the actuating arm start from a pulled position but even though the pad now has to move about 1mm the lever comes nearly half way back The cable is a bit stripped but it's still an odyssey slic I think..and I can't see why the cable would cause this problem: as I said you could imagine it as the lever not having enough space to pull the cable enough for the pads to bite onto the rotor I'll do some photos and a video this evening..

I've had two bb5 and same problem with both...it's like the lever had to pull to much cable so it never gets to bite the disc..

for me too because it's got better specs than mine..oh well sure you'll sell it soon

It's pretensioned..with the tektro lever it works ok..even if not how it should because I've had to pull the actuating lever on the caliper quite back at rest I threw the speed dial 7 lever on the back and it works wonders..one finger braking with shite black pads The front cable is a bit stripped but its an odyssey slic..I wound't have thought it's that, but it's the only component left.. I'll just try a bike shop for this time and see if they can fix it properly

There's no way and I say NO WAY I can get these darn brakes to work New disk, new caliper, new pads and new lever (speed dial 7), I mount everything according to manual but the stupid thing just doesn't work! The caliper is centered on the rotor, the cable slack is taken out but there's NO WAY the pads move enough to actually bite the rotor..all the adjustments are pulled to the maximum and I even tried pulling the brake arm backwards so that the moving pad is a few millimetres to the rotor (according to the manual the brake arm should start at rest position) like this i get ok lever feel..the lever still moves quite alot even if the pad has to move about 1 millimeter I really can't understand why..the old brake was like this too... Could it just be the cable? If the cable was flexing so much I would think it was made of rubber not metal..

lol I would have grabbed that last week..I just got a phase 1.3

I was thinking the same thing..that fixed hub plus freewheel is much, much cheaper that the pro2 hub and is much easier to service Wouldn't the rockman 72 clicks be better than that freewheel?