Chris Borneo
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Posts posted by Chris Borneo
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ROHLOFF S-L-T 99
£40 at Triton so a bit spendy compared to the KMC but it's heat treated so it's strong as hell! If chain life span is more important than cost, this could be a contender.
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Just seen the new Gusset Nitro SB pedals in this months ride magazine. They look pretty tidy and the design of the pins looks really good. Should be really solid.
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Problem with a lot of platforms is that the pins are countersunk from the back, when there's really no need for them to be. All it does is literally half the amount of thread that holds the pins in. Wellgo and some other brands used to do this back in the day, although I don't know if they still do. On my last BMX I had Odyssey JC trail mix pedals and the pins are more like mini cap head bolts with plenty of thread to hold them in. Haven't lost a pin yet and they'll be going straight on my trials bike when I get it built up.
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Yeah, My old man's got a lathe so I could get him to shorten the cassette body and the axle for me. Just a bit unsure about relocating the outer cassette bearing and whether there would still be enough room to cut a new thread for the lock ring. The one in the pics looks like it might have the lock ring on the outside. Think my old odyssey hazard cassette hub may have had something similar on the original driver. If anyone's got any more pics they can put up, especially any work in progress shots, it would be much appreciated.
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Heard of 2 pack paint but not really familiar with the process. MOD standards sounds promising.
Oh yeah, forgot to mention Armourtex. They're meant to be really good for powder coat. I know they do pearlecent lacquers and different levels of gloss, satin, matt finish etc and they know what they're doing when it comes to masking bike frames. They're not the cheapest, especially if you're outside of London and sending stuff and getting it sent back but I've heard they're worth the extra bucks.
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What headset was used to test the forks?
Pretty sure most people used an echo headset theses days that has a split race, although you could say the manufracture of the headset has a design issue, simpl fix would be a larger chamfer to clear the radious on the crown race
To be fair, the headset manufacturer probably wouldn't expect there to be a radius at the steerer crown junction but I think you're right that it needs a bigger internal chamfer.
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http://www.argoscycles.com/www/renovation-pricelist.htm
Argos Racing cycles, based in Bristol
Professional frame builders, renovates and sprayers
Meant to be one of the best for vintage road bikes. I'd like to get them to restore my Major Nichols one day but I think they only do stove enamel and it's not really tough enough for a trials bike.
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Yeah, the blue Chep ones are usually the best to ride as they're good to stack and interlock with each other and pretty tough too. Back when i was younger, the security guards at our local industrial estate used to let us ride there, out of business hours, as much as we liked as long as we didn't break too many pallets and put everything away when we were done. Guess it was in there interest to have people about on the estate. Always worth an ask first though. If you've got somewhere to put em a lot of places will just give you em but they might not always be the strongest.
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If anyone has any more info on this I'd also be well interested. Would like to cut the hope rear hub on my road bike down to 120mm.
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Just to go against the grain here, I can see exactly where Chris is coming from. A crown race is designed to sit on the crown of the fork, where the load is taken by the two flat surfaces. From what's being described the crown race is unable to seat properly so any load is being passed through a circular point load (does that make sense?) rather than through a surface. Doesn't sound ideal to me, although I'm well aware of how awesome and strong the forks are.
Stoked, someone who get's the point I was trying to make. Thought I was going to have to get my paint skills out and draw a diagram.
I also understand where Chris is coming from but I rekon as long as the headset is not loose this will not be a problem.
the split ring may well 'expand' however its not gonna expand much because of the way SL headsets are designed, its more of a wear ring or locator ring than a race, the race is within the bearing itself.
I know you already know this dude but just saying for clarity of anyone following.
I think it's more likley that either the crown race or the fork will become deformed but hopefully it won't cause you any major issues. Sounds like the trialtech forks are pretty tough anyway
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So it doesn't matter that the crown race is going to bed into the aluminium fork and create a weak point exactly where trialtech were trying to eliminate one? If you know steel is good under compression, you'll know that aluminium isn't. I'm not an engineer, I'm not even a professional bike mechanic but I've built and broken enough bikes and components over the last 15 years to know that if there's a 1mm gap between the crown race and the crown, it's not a proper fit and if it's sitting on a part of the fork that the manufacturer considered a potential weak point, it's worth putting right.
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well, in this case, it is right
Ha ha, considering the overwhelming evidence supporting your argument, oh wait, no, I'm still not convinced.
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you are talking as if this is something that happens?
I'm not saying it's definately going to fail but if the crown race is sitting 1mm above the crown, something isn't seated right.
I had a look at the SL headset and it has a split in the crown race so that won't crack but the underside has an internal chamfer not a fillet. If left to bed in it could create two angled transitons between the steerer and the crown negating the fillet that trialtech have machined into the fork for strength and making two potential weak points where you don't want them.
Clearly I'm just playing devil's advocate here but something's not right and if it was my bike, I'd try n get the crown race seated properly before riding. I'd probably start by emailing trialtech to see if it's something they've come across already.
I'm not trying to be a pr#*K about it, I'm just trying to offer what I think is good advice.
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True but a bearing race cracking seems a fair trade off when you're removing a key weak point that could cause you to lose your teeth.
No, it would be stupid, when you could get one that fits properly and wouldn't crack.
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I can see the advantage of having a smooth transition at the point where the steerer meets the crown but surely you'd need the bearing race to have a similar internal radius to allow it to seat properly on the crown? If the crown race is seated part way up the curved transition it's going to be trying to expand every time you put downward pressure on it and eventually it'll crack.
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If your headset is super tight but it still rocks, it probably means something's not alighned or seated right. It might settle down with a bit of use but you're best checking your cups are in straight and even that all the components have been intalled correctly. I've seen a few people put headsets together with bits in the wrong way round. I've done it myself with just a thin plastic seal in the wrong way up, I had the same problem.
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Clear lacquer will chip n scratch pretty easily especially if it's a rattle can job. If you're not going to be out riding in the wet, you'd probably be better just keeping them raw and giving them a pollish with a rag and a bit of autosol every now and again.
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defiantely the stuff with the dichloromethane!? wow...3lbs of frame and 3lbs of paint im thinking
Don't know what it's got in it but I've had it kicking around since last year when I did my BMX frame and the paint just bubbled up and fell right off that. Pretty sure it must be the old stuff.
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shoes wise any dc`s/etnies/duffs etc etc or nike air 6.0`s are prety good.
How did you manage not to mention vans?! Waffle soles matched with a decent set of platform pedals have been keeping some of the best riders attached to there bikes since before you were born I should think. Personally I would recommend the half cab pro. Thin at the front for control, grip and feel, then thicker at the back to prevent nasty heel bruising and just enough ankle support. Not to mention the fact that they look hella rad!
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Just started with the paint stripper. Massive fail! Barely having an effect on the powder coat and I'm using the old formula nitromors. Cannot be bothered with this shit. Powder coat they've used is as tough as the frame it's self I reckon. Gonna have to strip it all round the main gusset at least so I can be sure to cut that out straight. Then it looks like I'll have to get it shot blasted and might as well get a proffessional clear coat while it's there, instead of the rattle can job it was going to get. So much for doin it on the cheap eh.
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Just picked this up off ebay. Weighs in at 6lbs so maybe a bit on the heavy side for some but I like a bike that'll take a bit of abuse.
Planning to build it up over the next few weeks as a kinda trials/street/jump bike.
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matt black is where it's at.
Hell yeah! Although I do have a bit of a thing for bare metal at the moment. Only on steel frames of course
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designed by Tony Hawke.
This has just made my day
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I like the black n yellow fork. Loads better than boring black or silver. Undecided on the purple bits. Love the Microsoft paint skills. I do that all the time when i'm building bikes.
Oh yeah, loose the red headset spacer
*chains*
in Trials Chat
Posted
Don't think they are but I've used em before and they're pretty strong. Rolhoff definitely last longer though, provided you look after them of course.