Chris Borneo
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Posts posted by Chris Borneo
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you lost me? Perpendicular to what sides? Do linear cables offer a smoother lighter pull?
It's easier to explain with a picture
The one on the left will not seat properly and will make the brake feel mushy. The one on the right will seat nicely and feel loads better.
If you have a slic cable already it should work fine providing you have a good cable route, grind the ends and don't want to do tailwhips. If you're looking to buy a new cable it's probably worth getting a linear one.
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are linear cables much better than standard cables? What's the actual difference in them to standard?
Linear cables still work with a tight bend in em so good if you do tailwhips or even if you just want to run an awkward cable route. Also it's easier to get a nice flat end when you cut them which gives better performance/feel. Regular slic cable is still fine in the right situation if you grind the ends flat.
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Had an awesome ride today. Found a gap I thought would take me a couple of months to get and then did it second go. Stoked!
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Rad. Looks so good for havin the brake mounts removed. Well worth the comitment.
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Yeah mate, rad video.
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Couldn't really go for it today as my hand is a bit f**ked but was good to get out on the bike even for a chilled one.
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Might be about. Depends on what the missus has got planned for me
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But do you not think pads are necessary?
As I said, YOU need to decide what will benefit your riding. I only have a shonky old v brake on the back. Doesn't really bite or hold. Most people on here would be horrified by my whole bike really let alone the brake but it works for me and the way I ride. I'd rather spend money on a new rear wheel. Think about some stuff you've been trying to learn recently and what's going get you to the next level. New frame or brake pads n pedals? I can't tell you.
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Sounds like the decision is made to get grips n a star nut. For the rest of it, you, yes you! need to decide what will benefit your riding more, a new frame or all the other bits.
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Hydro disc up front and a magura at the back would be nice but I'm currently running an LX v from the late nineties with no booster and nothing on the front. Bad times.
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Used bulb hubs for about 2 years back in the day with no problem at all and I'm now using one again which I've borrowed till I can fund a pro 2. Take up isn't as good as modern trials hubs but it won't break in a hurry.
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As there's no pics, i'm making a few assumptions but hopefully this might help. If it's the drive side, there should be a bit of a lip to stop it winding all the way in. Might be able to get a pair of grips round it or maybe file a couple of flats in it and put it in a vice? If the main bottom bracket is already out and it's the non drive side cup left in there you can get a big fat nut n bolt (I mean BIG) with the right size washers to tighten down on both sides of the cup (hope that makes sense). Keep tightening the bolt from the drive side and eventually the cup should wind out.
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Wait, what? Wire wool, fair enough. 'start fine' in response to 'what grit sandpaper should I use' doesn't make me think wire wool though.
So it'd be better to start with 1200 grit? Like I suggested? Hence the 'wait, what?' response to your last line since my suggestion was 1200 grit wet and dry...
Edit: Unless you meant an alternative to water in which case there's simply no need for an alternative.
Edit 2: Man I'm grouchy today!
Oh shit, I thought you were being sarcastic! Sorry mate. I got right on the defensive there. Thought 1200 would be way too fine. Not that I've ever had to do this my self but from the look of the pic dann2707 posted I'd have thought you'd have needed something more like 400 or maybe 600 grade. Feel like a right arsehole now.
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Useful... If you're going to sand it use 1200 grit wet and dry and take it easy with it.
I was thinking more wire wool
Think it's fair advice though and pretty standard practice for anything where you can't go back if you f**k it up. Bit of common sence has to come into it I guess but it would be better to start with 1200 and work your way up than to wreck it going in too heavy, no?
Also just noticed you've failed to make any kind of suggestion as to what would be better. Useful.
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Probably best to start fine n see how it goes. I've read you can do it in a drill. Don't know if anyone's tried it.
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Why the f**k do people use water in Maguras and then wonder why it f**ks them up? They're designed to be run with mineral oil. It's cheap as chips from your local sewing machine repair shop. I don't get it. What's the crack.
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Ah haaaaa!
How it this ment to help your wheels in braking? Especially with the bike having a freewheel..........
Should think it's fixed gear. Still a shit idea though.
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Hadn't even considered the heat issue on a motorbike. Makes total sense though.
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I know it's been done on DH bikes before but didn't catch on. I'm guessing it was more bother that it's worth. Don't know what the deal is with motorbikes but I'd hazard a guess that they're servo assisted and they probably use dual discs because they can't get a single one big enough on heavy bikes.
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Think titanium has a tendency to react and seize with most other metals. I reckon it's probably worth a thin coat over the whole axle.
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Top of the caliper. Held on with the pinch bolt.
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Cheers. Yeah, I've seen the problem solver one but I'm after one of the old dmr ones. Bolts on the other side. Can't remember what they were called though.
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Anyone remember the name of the adapter DMR used to make so you could use a BMX lever with a v brake?
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Remember the lockring is designed to tighten when its used as a front freewheel ( so on the rear it will tend to loosen and spew its respective pawls and springs all over the floor ). You could either try some heavy threadlock, or weld it which I did for my dirt jumper
Surely there's no difference ie turn it clockwise the freewheel will lock turn it anticlockwise and it will spin. Fail to see how it makes any difference if it's on the front or back.
How Much Torque Should I Put On My Bb?
in Trials Chat
Posted
Really surprised that's come loose already although I'll bet it stayed tight longer for havin the drive side done up tight. Starting to think thread locker might be a bit overkill and might be a real pain to get out. It really shouldn't need it. Might be worth giving all the threads a clean and a check over and then put it back in with some copper grease. Then give it some with the torque wrench. If the threads are all good, i'd give it about 40ft lb.