Daviesdt
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Posts posted by Daviesdt
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All I can find on the Odyssey is 20 inch BMX tyres or a p lute tyre which seems to just be single ply and only 2.25 inch wide which seems quite skinny for trials.
I actually don't mind paying the money for continental tyre if the stop punctures but from what Dman says above I might just have the same problem. Or is it a case of conti tyres (good quality) and thicker tubes?
Got a link for thick tubes?
I'm wondering if I should go tubeless but seems a hell of a lot of faff.....
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Holy rollers are crap, I am coming to that conclusion.
I presume choice on 24's are limited?
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Morning all,
Getting alot of pinch punctures lately on my 24 inch element, it's getting a little frustrating as seems every time I get out lately I pop the tyre on and edge of a ledge/kerb/rock..... Went out last night without a spare as they all need patching and popped my tyre within 5 mins so ride over, had to go get my MTB and muck around on that for a few hours.
I am currently running maxxis holy rollers with Kenda inner tubes at 3 bar which I think is 45 psi. My mate said the holy rollers are paper thin which won't help.
So, questions is, is there a good choice of tyres, inner tubes and psi that would prevent these types of punctures all the time? Preferably something short of the Danny Mac conti signature series!
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Considered getting the arcade over the fourplay (still waiting on the new four play to be released though!) the weight puts me off though, it's a whole kilo heavier. I know weight isnt the be all and end all but that's alot of weight to throw around and unless I have chance to have a go of one before buying it would make me nervous. I've never really been a fan of the whole 'steel is real', started riding aluminium MTB bikes and never gone back to steel.
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If you like Stanton bikes they do a 4x which looks pretty sweet....
https://dirtmountainbike.com/videos/stanton-bikes-4x-frames-have-landed.html
24seven do a good range of 4x dirt jump type bikes, used to have a substance 26 inch and a dark angel 24 inch, both pretty good bikes.
If you want xc though you maybe better getting a bigger bike though and getting something specific to the task otherwise it'll only end up doing half a job.
You mentioned street, does the hex not fit that bill?
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Unlucky dude.
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Ah, the grub screw, i get it now, yeah my echo has the same detail.
Is it actually bent as suggested by ogre? If so you should be able to thread it out one way or the other.
If it's rusted, wd40 or gt85 bath like Matt said.
If it's been cross threaded it needs to come back out the way it went in but with a bit of brute force, you might bend the Allen key though.
If you can get a Bradle and give it a tap it might shock it enough to allow it to move some, worth a go.
If really stuck, when things seize on cars you quite often see heat applied with a burner, ok this is going to ruin your paint but depends on how much a problem the bolt is.
If all else fails try and cut it off flush in the drop out and use a chain tensioner or snail cam's.....
Not sure anyone else has any bright ideas?
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Really liked that vid, good lines, good music, good. Thought the line across the benches at 1.20 mins was nice but so much to choose from.
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It's the 'get your glow sticks out and rave like an eastern European' sound track I think does it for Andy, it's why he really digs Gorez. I thought the riding was worth watching though.
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Got a photo of the one that's stuck on your bike rather than a library photo? Presumably you mean the bolt on the end of the thread that goes through the hub and holds the wheel onto the frame? I don't get how it's stuck? Will it not turn anticlockwise to loosen? Is it rusted? Have you tried wd40 if so?
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Hide your dad's drill for starters.
Which bolt? Got a photo?
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Just in line with what ooo said above, I remembered seeing this, it's directed to mountain bikes but the skill and movement is the same;
Funnily enough ooo, gave me the same advice about not focusing on back wheel hops with a street trials some time ago, made a difference as I went back to focus on more 2 wheel rolling mtb type stuff which allowed me to progress. I can now hop around on the back wheel but that's probably only because I got more comfortable with techniques such as manuals, bunny hops and front wheel lifts. Don't focus on stuff that is more suitable for a pogo stick at this stage.
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Pah........ :)
6 hours ago, Ross McArthur said:29ers are where it's at
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6 hours ago, Ross McArthur said:
29ers are where it's at
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Yeah, give the pedal crank a go to lift the front wheel, don't do that in the manual though, manual is just body weight shift after a small preload stage.
You might find the pedal crank difficult in terms of timing at first but stick at it, it's the more efficient way of lifting your front wheel when static, use the manual to lift when rolling.
Track stand can be done either way but initially when learning I think most folks say turn your wheel left if you are right foot forward.
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Er.... Yes! Back brake is what I meant!
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23 hours ago, iron_panda said:
Back Wheel hops - I can get onto my back wheel from a trackstand but I have to really throw my weight back. I know this is what you're meant to do but it feels like it's just too much. So I was wondering if anyone else has had this and if it's just a learning curve? Also with the hops and balance. Because I throw my weight back 'quite a lot' I get about 2 bakwards hops before I come off and put my left foot down (leaning to the left again).
Are you using half a pedal crank to stand the bike up on the back wheel or just throwing your weight back? If the later, think you need to learn using the pedal to lift the front end into the standing position.
23 hours ago, iron_panda said:Bunnyhops - My weight is too far over the handlebars and I'm just pulling up on the handlebars. Again, I know this isn't the way but because of the points above, I'm a bit hesitant to really throw my weight back whilst moving.
Bunny hopping is not pulling up on the handlebars, at least not in the initial phase of lifting the wheel. Arms should be straight as you keep your back level and throw your hips back over the back hub. Essentially you are starting a short manual before hopping. Think you need to be comfortable with the manual phase of it before moving onto the hop. You dont have to manual for miles, just enough to lift the front wheel up by throwing body weight back over the rear hub and hold it for a second. It can be a little disconcerting at first as you have a feeling you are just going to fall off, need to go slower at first to understand where the balance point is and have the confidence to put your foot down if you feel you are going to fall off, covering the front brake helps just incase you are going to loop out.
For the trackstand, which way do you turn your wheel and which footed forward are you?
Possibly film yourself and post the vids, may be a bit easier for folks to give you a few tips as to where you are going wrong, you may even see the problem yourself.
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Like ogre said, good advice in my opinion.
I started off doing trials with a DJ bike, struggled to do much due to bike weight and geometry so bought a street trials which worked better and I could progress some. It's not impossible to pull trials stuff on a DJ bike, you can have a look at Sam pilgrim videos for that, or even trials stuff on bigger bikes like enduro, check out Danny Mac and Ali c, but you might want to do yourself a favour if you are serious about trials and get a trials bike. If you are living in a city, it's a good move to take full advantage of your area. Maybe try and arrange a go on a trials bike from someone who has one so you can see the difference it makes?
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Shit man, that rail manual was really fu#king precise! Guy has got serious skills, thanks for sharing, if you spot a full edit put it on the forum.
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I thought Cranks only came in pairs....? I might be wrong though. Would look a bit weird having a blingy right hand crank and a bog standard left..... You might have to replace both.
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Good photo, do you mess around with the colour saturation on your photos or is that as taken? Where is that anyway? Seen the video of this and can't figure out where it is, seems to be so much new spaces getting done in MCR these days it's well worth cruising round every now and again and seeing what's changed, especially Northern quarter.....
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Think you'll do yourself a nasty injury riding that thing. Leave well enough alone unless you know someone who can weld aluminium.
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2 hours ago, aener said:
Don't listen to Daviesdt about bunnyhops and BB heights
Probably for the best! I literally have no idea how you do some of the stuff you do on a mod! Tried some bunny hops and manuals on my stock..... It didn't end well!
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Think you would always struggle bunny hopping with a bb that high mate, that said, have seen some folks pulling more street type trials moves on mods and stocks so guess possible but also guess it's way harder than on a BMX or Street trials bike. If street is what you want, may be best biting the bullet and picking up a second hand Street trials bike....
Tyre choice to prevent punctures
in Trials Chat
Posted
Temped to get the continental tyres then, if for no other reason they can't be worse than the holy rollers.
My thoughts were the 2.4 inch wide contains more air and I understand the continental tyres have thicker side walls so should prevent bottoming out on the rim a bit more. I thought the continental were twin ply though? Reading above doesn't sound like.
Will try searching no 9 tubes. Mind not fully made up yet, if Dman is 10st and bottoms out the continental at 40 psi, I'll definitely do it at nearly 13st at 45 psi!