justinlock
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Posts posted by justinlock
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Personally I just use Strava/Google fit for my needs. I have a QuadLock mount on my bars and a case with the adaptor stuck to it for my Pixel. All works flawlessly and has done for years now.
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19 hours ago, Mark W said:
It should be fine. It's worth using a file to smooth off the edges (inside and outside) of the top of the steerer so it doesn't scratch up the inside of your steerer, and also gives a cleaner start to the thread for your top cap.
Depending on how far you want to cut them down, you should still have enough threads left for the top cap, but it would be worth having a quick measure to be sure.
EDIT: If you're using a hacksaw, get yourself a fresh blade and also some form of lube to help ease things up a bit. There's probably better stuff you could use, but I found something as basic as GT-85 worked well for me. There's no way around the innuendo - if you go for it dry, it'll feel like even more effort than it will do if you lube it up.
Just gotta find a saw and blade that can actually cut through the cromo tube that also doesn't cost a silly amount
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I've used the Schwalbe TableTopsand will definitely vouch for them. Good rolling speed and grippier than most. Definitely a 4-4.5 star from me.
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I have the Inspired Arcade forks with the threaded topcap and need to cut them down but don't wanna fluff it up at all. Has anyone else done this already? How was it after and did the topcap still thread ok?
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In all honesty if you're gonna spend approx £130-£140 on cranks, approx £30 on the BB & £70 on the chainring then I'd just opt for the full inspired set that has it all for £230. Wouldn't be too hard to strip the cranks and polish them up
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3 hours ago, Ali C said:
I generally go shorter if possible...165-170 unless I want to make my gear ratio slightly lighter in which case I'll run longer cranks.
Shorter cranks are (slightly) stronger as there's less leverage on them, you get more ground clearance for hooks and stuff and I feel it's slightly easier to balance with your feet closer togetherI couldn't agree more. Even with a manual it's easier to get the weight back with your feet closer.
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On 24/06/2020 at 1:50 PM, MadManMike said:
Surely it would be lower cost to replace your bars than to have a custom machined stem?
Yeah but these are the District bars, they look great
That being said, I am very happy with my Jitsie Hybrid Riser Bars from the Tarts.
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@Wantedinspiredarcade FYI: I received the KHE Prism cranks from WallerBMX today. They weren't as advertised. They don't have the microdrive as pictured. I'm gonna put in an order with SkatePro next week for another set of Stolen Talon V2's instead as they definitely do have they micro drive. A little more expensive at £90 but at least I know it's a safe bet
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4 hours ago, Wantedinspiredarcade said:
Ahhh ok, so with a bit of modification in theory I could fit any bmx crank (as long as it has the micro drive...) this is good to know. Thanks for advice on the 175mm length, it’s true I do also see lots of riders using them, I’m still confused as to why Inspired only made one length though? It must make a difference if you’re say 6”2 or 5”7 for example. I think I’ll also go for 22:16, seems like a popular / standard choice for street trials, I do wonder if a 25t would give a cool BMX vibe to the bike though, like at skateparks or pulling bmx style moves... I’ve just paint stripped my Inspired arcade frame and fork and polished it to a Raw effect... it’s looink ‘sick’ haha
I definitely agree with the 25t vibe.
You do know that you have to post some pics now
I wanted to have my Marino raw but they weren't happy about doing it as it wouldn't be protected enough so I'm going for a high gloss ultra white finish instead.
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7 hours ago, Wantedinspiredarcade said:
Thanks for the info you two, I’m glad I asked!
So Ive looked again and now see lots of BMX cranks with the micro drive... but Sandbugg you say the axle still won’t be long enough? So I’d have to buy an additional axle in the correct length.
So how about these Waller KHE Prism cranks... would they fit? It doesn’t say anything about them having a longer axle? And it doesn’t give any crank arm length options?
Finally, what do you guys recommend for crank arm length and gear ratio? I know the obvious answer is it’s all down to personal preference... but for beginners that don’t have any preference what would be your advice? I’m short (5”8 ish) this is why I thought a 175mm crank would be too long... also the gear ratio comment makes me think a 25t upfront is not a good idea... So is 22:15 or 22:16 better for beginners, I see for my arcade frame it can run both options..
Regarding the KHE Prism cranks, or BMX cranks in general, I have a 68mm BB shell and only had a single issue which was the internal axle spacer being too long. All I did was cut it down by 5mm and it fit like a dream. That's only because I don't have any spacers for the BB.
As for the arm length, they are 175mm and should be perfectly fine. Even the aforementioned Arcade cranks are only available in 175mm and many riders rock them.
For gear ratios, I'm currently in the process of putting a 16t rear sprocket on, 22t front and a double chain tensioner with enough slack so that I can change out to a 25t or maybe even a 28t front chainring. Should be an interesting experiment. This means I can commute with one set, and swap out for playtime quite easily (in theory).
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On 19/06/2020 at 10:57 PM, La Bourde said:
This one seems to be a 24", right.
I don't know exactly if the spark frame changed.
I noticed that the old builds have 24" wheels but Octane01 described the current model as a 26".
The Octane One Spark definitely is a 26". Works ok with 24" but feels better on 26".
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Waller BMX have a set of microdrive KHE Prism cranks for £65. I ordered some a couple of days ago. Also, there's the DMR Spin BMX chainring from tredz which comes in 20t, 22t or 25t. Only £25.
Normal BMX cranks won't fit a smaller chainring so they've gotta have the option for the microdrive/nanodrive.
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2 hours ago, Private Repress said:
Yep, the little plastic inserts will fit in just fine
Awesomeness
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So on a related note, does anyone know if I can still swap the piston caps on the MT5 e-stop's? Want something that stands out a little more.
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6 hours ago, craigjames said:
Unsurprisingly, HALO sell them....:
https://www.halowheels.com/shop/components/sprockets/djd-supadrive-and-bushdriver-sprockets/
Yeah.
I knew this much.
The issue is they only go up to 16T and are only suitable for 1/8 chain. Preferably I'd like 18t and 3/32.
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Does anyone know where I can get replacement sprockets with 23mmx1mm thread? Need one for my Halo Chaos DJD Supadrive rear wheel.
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2 hours ago, giantwhore said:
So I've tried BB7 with a 203 rotor in the past and am now using a SRAM X0 Trail up front which seems to be working ok but lacks real bite and hold. I'm after a disc brake that bites hard and holds with a bit of modulation.
Magura MT5's really caught my eye and have a friend who's using one with zero issues.....but i've seen some crappy feedback on the lever blade strength (including Ali C's recent retro bike 2 vid), plus Tarty seem to now have a disclaimer that they don't recommend them for trials use as they wear out/break pretty quick. The feedback on the power though is amazing, people seem to really rate them.
Hope's are a possibility but again varied feedback and mainly on the power side.
In short, are the MT5 levers as bad as they seem and if so what do people recommend as an alternative?
Wondering this too. How were the BB7's? Bitey or not?
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Pendulum: In Silico
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Looking at braking systems and the recommendations have been either:
Avid BB7
Magura MT5
Shimano SLX M7120
Shimano XT M8020
TRP Slate T4 AG Design
What do I go for?
I really want sharp power. Don't care about modulation initially. Just want OTB catapult stoppage.
Thoughts?
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Riding is riding. Regardless of the steed. I'm sure most people here have multiple rides for the various disciplines. to be honest I'm always just glad to be out on something with pedals when I get the chance
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1 hour ago, Private Repress said:
I’ve got some MT30 brakes for sale if you are interested? Same power at the MT5s
Sorry bud, not at the moment. Gotta save for the rest of the frame, new front wheel etc. If they're still available when I can, then I'll probably have them
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Not long, it'll be worth the wait
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9 hours ago, cookie70 said:
My advice is dont overdo it in the early days but dont do nothing... I've have had multiple broken wrists and a major motorcross accident that exploded the joint surface on my ralius. The wrist is full of metal, and at the time, I thought riding was over. I did physio, did the exercises, started out small and have about 80% movement and strength with it these days.
Now I regularly race downhill, enduro MTB and have started trials in recent years with my 10 year old son.. Sometimes the smallest mistakes hurt my wrist, hopping on the front wheel and land off balance etc.. you learn the limitations and as TomWood said, you adjust the bike if it helps.. Stay motivated, the human body has amazing way to get better with time if you do the right things.. cheers!
Great advice and inspirational to boot!
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I'm running the Odyssey external BB with some KHE BMX cranks and Inspired ring on mine and while it typically weighs more, the strength is much higher. The added bonus is that the cranks are ALOT cheaper.
24" stock with a rear disc (6.97 kg)
in Bike Pictures
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I'm in love with this build! The attention to detail is fantastic!