TomWood
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Posts posted by TomWood
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I heard of a competition a few hours from me that I'm going to try and do. Still trying to figure out my category. I know what features I can get onto and gap given a clean run-up, but I don't know what a course would actually look like. I think I'd be a sport/intermediate rider. While I might be able to do some expert level moves, I don't think I could do them one after another with akward terrain in the middle. Would anyone have footage of a competition in the sport category so I can get a rough idea of how "messy" the course might be?
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Thanks for the advice. Fortunately, I was a mechanic for a few years so I am doing all my own work. That definitely helps. I've been checking for cracks around head-tube and fork.
You're right that it's hard to determine how much wear and tear the bike gets. While I'm not doing moves as big as most riders here, I am definitely not as smooth as them and probably drop my bike a fair bit more.
Overall it sounds like I may be a bit too scared of breaking key parts. The stuff is fairly overbuilt.
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52 minutes ago, aener said:
Just a sanity check here, because rotors aren't things that usually crack: Are you using floating rotors? (With an aluminium centre piece.) If you are, don't.
There's a few high-tier exceptions, but the overwhelming rule of thumb is that floating rotors and trials don't mix.[...]
No weird setup. Avid G2 Cleansweep rotors, 6-bolt. Cracked in multiple spots around the rotor bolts. The material around that area isn't very burly, but this was still a shock to me. Wish I had taken a photo but I can't find one in my phone.
The play I was referring to is in the lever itself. There appears to be a bushing around the pin that holds the lever into the lever clamp and that bushing seems to be very worn down after only a couple years allowing the lever to float all over the place.
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So I broke a chain during a pedal kick a little while back. That sucked, but no real injuries. Got a new chain - stronger this time hopefully - and now I know to just replace that every now and then as the forces are pretty violent on them.
I also found out that my rotors had cracked in multiple spots where the bolts are. That was scary to see so I got new rotors.
I'm running a pretty entry-level setup with Avid BB5s and some FR5 levers and starting to get concerned about the play I feel in them and wondering if they're on their way out.
My question is about how often I should just replace this stuff. Do the brake rotors/calipers/levers/cables need replacing every year or so? Contemplating just getting brand new levers/cables/housing but not sure about calipers. What about stem/stem bolts? Still learnign as a rider and definitely not smooth, but I'm starting to hit slightly bigger drops and gaps.
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I would imagine it has a lot to do with a much shorter reach on the street bikes (which brings your shoulders forward relative to the cockpit when your hips are still "centered") combined with a tendency to want to shift weight much farther over the front end than you would on a mountain bike (for front wheel moves). This would shift your shoulders over the cockpit more and you would need to rotate the levers down to maintain a comfortable position for your wrists/hands.
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On 11/25/2020 at 5:36 PM, PeterH said:
This made me sad. I have been told by folks in the industry e-bikes are the future no matter what you think of them and its unavoidable, but it pisses me off. One of the great things about Akrigg is he was already an e-bike in a way, the way he managed to keep pedaling and applying power on any bike was mind blowing. I'll admit the e-bike seems to amplify that which is wild, but he did it so well on his own. Riding up those stream bed/boulder chutes was impressive because it happened, but I would much rather see him on just super tech trails powering his own way up/through things. The guy will always be someone I look up to and I know you gotta make a buck and its where the industry is going, but I died a little when I saw this.
This is pretty clearly an add for his sponsors.
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1 hour ago, Wantedinspiredarcade said:
Nice one Tom, this confirms my choice, breaking levers whilst learning street trials as a beginner could be an expensive hobby! Hahah. Thanks for letting me know the BB5s work well, what model and size rotors are you using?
Also what tires have you got and what are you wanting to upgrade to? I’ve gone for the Holy Rollers 2.4 front and back, was going to see how long / well they work then upgrade to Danny Mac Conti’s to see what all the fuss is about haha
Speaking of, I had another crash yesterday practicing up-to-fronts and bent the lever again. Bent it back and it's good to go. Eventually it's going to snap on me, but I'd glad it's held up so far.
I bought a complete bike instead of building up the bike. So it's BB5s with the Avid Clean Sweep G3s in 180. I want to try a 203 rear because I think it will feel more precise. My wish-list rear brake at the moment is a Saint. I'm familiar with Shimano from my mountain bikes. I like the way the levers feels. I know how to bleed them. And they seem to have a few pad options. Would be cool to try Hopes or the higher end Magura MTs, but it's a lot of money gone if you don't like them. I've ridden trail bikes with the MT5s on them and the performance felt great. The flex in the lever wasn't my favorite though.
The tire are the Kenda K-Rads. I honestly don't have anything to compare the tires to from a street trials point of view, but they seem to slip a lot when given the slightest hint of moisture. I've tried a few tires on my mountain bike and know that compounds make a huge difference. It looks like the only real options are Holy Rollers or the Danny Macs unless you go 2.1 or narrower which I'm unsure of. 24" options are frustratingly limited.
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3 hours ago, Mark W said:
None of that is particularly applicable to the Arcade cranks.
The spacers and washers are to switch it from either 68mm or 73mm (as is the case for most spacers for almost all BBs/cranksets - there are a few different width shells brands use, so it'll take that into account arther than "margin of error" on construction), and to take into account chainline and so on.
The internal spacer is also crucial as that's what prevents sideloading the bearings. On MTB/Road setups they're typically more to just prevent the ingress of dirt/water, but on this BMX style of BB, they provide support for the inner race of the bearings.
For the thinner/smaller washers, these are just to get enough clearance for your frame. It's pretty hard to get that element of it wrong as such - the tension in the BB bearing is handled by the inner tube spacer and the crank bolts. Those washers are more to finesse crank positioning. There's enough overlap on the crank (or cranks on the V1 crankset) that you don't really need to worry about the crank bolt (or bolts) bottoming out.
Ah yeah. BMX cranks...
Don’t have any real experience with those. Glad you two could offer more useful advice.
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2 hours ago, Wantedinspiredarcade said:
I was looking at the MT Trails, hmmmmm but I’ve already bought the Avid Speed Dial levers now.... although they was only 15 quid a pair! Breaking / replacing levers whilst being a beginner / learner was the deciding factor on BB7s over cheap Hydraulics. I did see a full set of MT Trails for 130 quid or something though, so now I’m in limbo land haha Cheers Swoofty
I'm in the same beginner boat and have BB5s with FR5 levers. Seriously impressed by the stopping power of these brakes when set up correctly. They haven't slipped at all over 6 foot gaps or 4 foot drops. Tires have though. I'll want to upgrade them at some point, but it's my skill and not the brakes that are the limiting factor in my riding at this time. I've also had a few crashes or dropped bikes that I'm positive would have broken the lever if they were one of the plastic (composite?) Magura levers. I've had one of my brake levers bend pretty far already, just bent it back and it's been good to go.
Very happy with my choice to go cheap for my first set up. Upgrades will come when my riding can justify it.
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I'm not familiar with the Arcade crank-set specifically, but I've built up quite a few bikes.
Cranks and BBs are the sloppiest excuse for a "standard" I've ever seen. The washers that come with the BB are spacers because they know that the BB and BB shell widths have a large margin of error. What I would do if I didn't get any further guidance is install the BB, then install the crank-set without any washers. Check for axial play in the cranks. If there is play, add a spacer; check for play again. Rise. Repeat till there is no play. Check again, if the crank is binding, then you've used too many or too thick of a spacer and need to reducing the spacing. Usually they get added to the non-drive side, as the drive side should remain in position for best chain line.
The tube that comes with the BB is usually a sleeve just to keep any crap that falls into the frame out of the way. The crank spindle is narrower than the internal diameter of the sleeve, correct?
Hopefully someone that's actually installed the Arcade crank can verify this. Just saying again that I've never see the Arcade crank in person. But washers and sleeves are pretty common on the MTB/road side of things.
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Looks like an early generation BB7-Road from the mid-2000's.
http://www.bikerecyclery.com/avid-bb7-road-disc-brake-caliper-w-pads-grey/
Looking for confirmation.
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It's looking like another beautiful and dry weekend. Anyone interested in going to Morecambe to ride?
I'd go anywhere else that's within a 90 minute drive of Betham too if someone has a spot they'd rather ride. I'd prefer to start earlier in the morning to beat the crowds if we can.
I'm not on Facebook, but if anyone wants to direct someone to this post through other social media, that would be greatly appreciated.
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Bit off-topic, but that chain looks a bit long.
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It actually opened back up again a few weeks ago and I've been a couple times. It's pretty well built in the sense that the berms are confidence inspiring and the rollers are easy to pump. They've put pretty big spaces between the track so there aren't any available options for transfers or ways to spice it up. I'm assuming that was intentional to keep it more family friendly. Safety for the kiddos is important. All the doubles are easy to clear. So there just isn't much to actually progress on other than one triple and manual practice. Good way to kill an hour at the end of a work day though. I should go back more often. My manuals definitely need work.
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On 6/29/2020 at 3:29 PM, CC12345678910 said:
Morecambe prom would be your best bet in terms of riding pal. At the skill level you say you're at I'd park in the pay and display at The Battery and take in the fountains (right next door) then have a bod down to the midland and where I understand the eden project is gonna go. There is a spot at the lifeboat station (still heading eastwards), and a bunch of new stuff heading for bolton-le-sands but that is a fair trek and is prob of limited interest to you. Now might be the time to head for the train station through the cut through next to B&M and take in the skatepark if you feel so inclined.
Then I'd suggest you double back to the battery, grab a different water bottle/snack/whatever from the car and head west down the prom towards Heysham and take in the spots known as "second levels" and "the climbing wall" so named because of the council climbing wall affixed to the retaining wall keeping the grass at bay that flipp rode up then gapped off of to one of the thin ledges.
Session using the three thin ledges as one balance line 'til your eyes bleed, tek a drink & repeat...
This spot is probably of most value to you as no one's gonna cry if you do slip to bashring.
But remember that tyres only is the objective on every object. Leaving scars down every ledge like you're a scooter kid will just ruin it for everyone else.
EDIT: This old topic probably explains better, I laid it all out in grid references and it took fooking ages so I am not doing it again
Ciaran.
@CC12345678910 This was perfect. Thank you! I finally went riding there yesterday after a few busy weeks mixed with wet weather. It was 32C, so I only rode for a couple hours before the heat wore me out. So many awesome short lines for my ability level and so many more that I have my eyes on for once I improve. I found out that I'm far worse at skinnies than I thought I was, and that I really need to practice natural rocks more.
Now I just need to find some people to ride with.
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That's awesome. Thank you! I'll definitely go check that spot out. Hopefully the weather cooperates this weekend.
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Was actually pretty interesting watching the little guy from 2:20-3:15. He's got some moves and kids that age are going to be absolute beasts in 5-10 years being surrounded by top talent.
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Now that restrictions on travel have lifted quite a bit, anyone interested in organizing a weekend ride? I'm willing to drive a couple hours if there's a small group meeting at a location that still offers some beginner features.
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1 hour ago, craigjames said:
[...] found another sports injury therapist; she was brilliant and with a lot of work and consistently doing the exercises set I've sorted my niggles...... touch wood.
This. A good physical therapist will give you good exercises to properly help your issue. It may not ever go away completely, but you strengthen the body enough to offer support.
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Acupuncture, dry needling, and massage can help to loosen seized muscles and/or reduce inflammation to give you a kick start on mobility. They can offer a lot of relief in terms of pain and discomfort. But the only way to really improve your shoulder, knee, and hip health is to do your physical therapy exercises. There are so many small muscles and attachments in those joints that need attention. Work on the mobility. Work on the range of motion. Work on the stabilization. And work on the strength. Shortcuts are rarely long term fixes.
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Up to a certain limit (tipping point is might be somewhere around 2k for hardtails, 5k for full sus), it's almost always worth spending as much as you possibly can on the initial purchase. You tend to get a lot more for what you pay for in a lot of cases. And buying a cheaper bike and upgrading is a very expensive way to get a better bike.
Of course, it always depends on your intended usage, level of riding, and budget.
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I'll chime in because I'm using the ESI Extra Chunkys. I haven't tried the Trialtech's so I can't do a direct comparison to those.
I like a thicker grip because I feel like I can relax the grip more. As the grip gets thinner, I feel like I need to try really hard with my thumb to get a good hold. I use the ODI Rogues on my mountain bike. That's why I chose the Extra Chunkys instead of just the Chunky. Although, it sounds like most people here prefer a slimmer grip.
They went on super easy with some Isopropyl and they haven't moved yet despite a few crashes into dirt and gravel. They seem to hold on to the bar pretty tight. After the first couple days, I was a little concerned about their longevity because I was seeing tiny little tears all over. The tears are really tiny. After another month, I'm seeing a couple more of those tears, but they don't seem to be propagating at all. I find them super comfortable and they provide really good grip with gloves. Without gloves the grip is really good until my palms get really sweaty. It's been humid so that's been happening a lot lately.
I don't have a long term review, as I've only had them a few weeks. I'd be really interested to see the comparison to the Trialtech as I'm loving these foam grips.
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43 minutes ago, Ross McArthur said:
Had fun on the hard tail in some nearby woods.
Mind me asking where that is? Those bridges and berms look like a ton of fun.
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5 hours ago, Ali C said:
I think for me it's as much ability to ride but also the experience to know when and how to bail. Beginners will often go down with the ship because they don't have the experience to know when a move is going past the point of no return and end up eating shit.
This is actually one of the things holding back my progression a bit. Getting just a little bit older, the fear of injury is higher than it used to be when I was a teenager. And I know I don't quite have the skills or comfort to pull out a safe landing or bail elegantly. So there's that knowledge that if I fail a bigger move, I'm probably going to fail painfully. All part of the sport, but I wish I had started as a kid.
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Crank Arm Length
in Trials Chat
Posted
I've been riding 170mm cranks on my road bike, hard tail, and earlier full sus bikes. Last full sus came with 175s, and they always felt too long from the first ride to the last over two years. More pedal strikes, too much "throw" for lack of a better word to describe the feeling. Back on 170s on my new bike and they feel great. Rode my friends bike with 165s and had absolutely no complaints about it. I'm 6ft tall, and while my legs are a bit short for my height, I wouldn't consider myself or my legs short. Starting to see more click-baity videos on youtube about how cranks are better shorter - trending towards the 165mm.
Looking at upgrading my street trials bike now and seeing that cranks are pretty consistently at 175mm on the Inspired bikes. I'm wondering if there's a reason for going for longer cranks on bikes that have smaller wheels and typically want more clearance anyway. Anyone who's been in the game for a while have any insights? If 165/170 cranks feel more comfortable, am I missing anything by not using longer cranks? Is there a reason the default has become the longest standard for these relatively small 24" bikes?