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About CC12345678910

  • Rank
    Trials King
  • Birthday 12/30/92

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  • Gender
  • Interests
    Bikes, Cars, Motorsport - owt with wheels or an engine
    Loud shouty music
    Fixing up old rusty stuff
    Computers, when I have to
    Camera stuffs
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  • County (UK Only)
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  • Bike Ridden
  • Quick Spec
    Green '11 Inspired Fourplay, Element forks, Hope sport front hub/black DB Vocal BMX spokes/blue Araya Nipples/black Halo combat, Pro2 evo rear/black Vocal DB spokes/blue Araya nipples/Inspired pro rim, Gusset integrated seat, TT sport cranks & Onza BB, Wellgo Mg-1s, KMC z510HX chain, BB7 front, Racingline/magura rear,HS yellows and TT 2 bolt, T/tech stem and Nukeproof Warhead 760 risers.
  • Country
    United Kingdom

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  1. Going with a battery cable to a 340lph(ish) in tank or a 255 (etc.) up/in to a pot and then on to the rail? Or you going dual in tanks on one of them double hats? Would that 400 wheel involve water/meth for repeatability/peace of mind? This'd all be on s300 the K version I can't recall the name of as I type, as well I guess? I don't mean to interrogate, just dead curious. Be sick to see a CRV t-case in it and the back wheels spinning too, serving up Fiesta ST's for North Yorks moors mexico breakfast... haha.
  2. sooo.... ~350 wheel k EG??? 30-76? 35-82? What's the rest of the setup/plan?
  3. Am I to understand that the steerer is cut and therefore you cannot add more stackers? 20mm really isn't alot. If you have a 150*30/35 kicking around then it's worth a hour of your time to find out, the reach of a hex is not dissimilar to that of the style of high(er) BB pogo frame that would typically sport a 150*30 or 165*35 and be run with 0, 5 or 10 mm of stacker and ~95mm total rise bar. Instinctively I'd vote 120*17/20 or 130*25 and all the stackers but (unless you are going to get some uncut forks) you gotta p*ss with the c*ck y'got... This stem tool Alex Phred Stem chart link is what I use to give some graphical insight when debating such matters. Two things though: 1) Have your Javascript on or it won't work. 2) Remember that the "height" measurement is from a datum of your choosing, to the centre point of the steerer clamp. If you are comparing stems with 2 different steerer clamp heights, you must factor this in & adjust accordingly. So for example. In this context as you are not changing frame or headset I'd make the datum the top dust cover of the headset or bottom of the lowest stacker, then measure to the bottom of the top cap, then subtract half the steerer clamp value. Make a note in a text file/phone/paper/whatever, enter this value in the chart and repeat for the stem you are considering. in the pursuit of accuracy or best practice, whichever ruler/tape measure/vernier you use on the first measure is the one you use thereafter. Never a bad idea to use the 10CM mark as zero on tapes and rulers as the 0 mark is never actually 0. That 90*35 is far too small for you for definite. It looks like a kid bike stem Ciaran.
  4. Nah It's your bike so it's your bikefit - if it requires a 180*35 stem and a set of pit bike bars for you to be comfy then the easy rider bar position it is. FWIW steerer extenders belong on trials bikes about as much as 3/32 chains with slotted plates and hollow pins. That is unless you want to put your dentist's kid through uni... EDIT: Oh and my 6'3 friend reminded me that when he had the same 2011 Fourplay that I have, his set up of 175mm cranks, thin section pedals, vertically set arcade bars on 110*35 system ex stem with 30mm stackers was both big & comfy as frig. I concour.
  5. The original setup for the silver t-bird's looked like this. The black anodised framed ones ^ were the year after (2007) with the front disc brake but rear V brake (no 4 bolt mounts, no HS33's, no creepy crawler tyres, economic decisions appear to have been made). My recollection and educated guess would be that OEM set up used a crank with a higher (larger number/value, further away from the centreline of the bike), in order to use readily available and therefore cheaper per unit components such as a more standard 113mm or 118mm length BB axle and still make a respectable chainline in combination with the rear freewheel, but most importantly clear the what in other disciplines would be considered a daft wide rear tyre. Now might time to say that if you are expecting arrow straight chainline like you would expect to achieve on other types of bike you are on a hiding to nothing. Short chainstay, big tyre, narrow overlocknut distance, mod chainline will always be shi*e to a certain degree. Think fat bikes - clearance for daft 5" tyre = 83 to 100mm BB shell and big chainline value. But Mods don't have 148mm+ frame spacing/OLN distance to aid chainline. What you've done with the front freewheel set up is lowered the chainline value (the chain has gone toward the centreline of the bike), so my thoughts are that you now need to compensate with BB axle length. In this respect the idea that you have a 135mm ISIS or Square taper BB in there now is highly suspect (never heard of one). The increase of chainline value in the rear sprocket will be a good thing though unless the chain takes a snack full of seatstay/dropout. The frame was made around 24/18 ratio and you've 18/12 so real estate should be ample. 127, 127.5, 128mm BB's are the trials standard in front freewheel (FFW) applications, 122.5mm can also be used, but any narrower and you will likely run in to clearance issues between the freewheel and BB cup or BB shell. If you have anything less that a 122.5mm bb in there at there at the mo I'm amazed you aren't taking lumps out of the BB or frame (or have you not cinched the cranks down fully yet?) What is the complication with the two cranks, why can you not put the tensiles on the taper BB? or are the tensiles ISIS? The mention of the axle locknuts was a desperation time ploy that I have used before as you would move the hub therefore entire wheel and ultimately the tyre laterally 2mm toward the non drive side then though a combination of fiddlef**king around with dish, BB length, higher chainline value and, in last resort shit or bust thought process, adding drive side penny washers and ramming the wheel in, splaying the frame and spacing the driveside V-brake arm out so I can add stupid dish (Do not ever do this , least not to something that isn't a gas pipe like steel frame) Yeah yeah I'm a dodgy pr**k I know, needs must...
  6. It'll be those bars. In comparison to mtb bends the arcade bars give the roomy sense of space that putting on BMX bars would. The stem tools like alex phred give an educated buying decision, but they can never convey "feel". Bar changes transform bikes. At 6'5 you might be one of these people that needs 40mm+ of stackers, a 60mm tall steerer clamp 120*17 stem and the arcade bar. If those are 170mm cranks a swap to 175mm would (as pictured) splay your feet further apart, lowering your arse vertically and straighten your lower back posture. Even thinner vertical section pedals would help in this regard. Wider, bigger bars will move your center of mass forward too, compounding this effect and make the effective reach longer. A stupid wide (830mm etc) bar would move your CM forward the most, but at the possible expense of posture (shoulder, neckache) and roomyness - the length of you arms hasn't changed so your sternem goes toward the stem in effective space. My point being that there will be a Goldilocks amount that all this logic can be applied.
  7. 1) What's the dish like pal? Excessively towards the drive side? It will be asymmetric, yes, but only a tad. It shouldn't look like a >9speed with the driveside spokes near vertical. The dead give away would be when you set the slaves up the arbitrary 1-2.5mm from the rim (with a straight and correctly set wheel) and the non drive side drive is pushed in with the driveside one having to be set pushed out off into the next postcode. 2) What length bottom bracket have you in there? From that angle I'd tek a stab that you need longer one or an offset one because you've changed the chainline measurement by adding the front free wheel set up from that donor bike (green 06 Tpro, right?). See Ref. The rear chainline has been changed because the rear freewheel would have sat the chain more towards the hub's centreline, also. 3) When I had my one of those T-birds (bought new, factory spec, MY05/6 T-bird in silver, onza reggie wheel, creepy crawler, 24/18 gearing, KMC K710 Kool chain) the tyre was bloody close to the chain, close enough that I recall cutting across the school playing field trying to make curfew one time & enveloping the chain is boggy grot. 4) Do an idiot check. Start afresh, run through all all the stupid shit that should be "right" such as tweaked dropouts, bent wheel axle, wonky BB axle, wonky freewheel with four miles of runout, wheel moving in the dropout as you give it the bigun on the spanner etc. and everything else that gets f**ked on 2nd/3rd/14th hand bikes. You haven't a scooby what Cletus may have been in there before you on either bike/combination and now you are trying to modify and merge the two. Nothing is a given. 5) What locknuts are those? 3, 5 or 7mm? You're getting desperate by this point if you need to do this but if those are 5mm locknuts you can do some fudgeing swapping the NDS locknut for a 3mm and the DS for a 7mm, with or without the application of penny washer(s), longer BB and taking some dish out of the wheel. I do/have done faaarrr too much f**kin around with dirty old bicycles of all shapes and sizes that have had at least two goes round the sun and often many a 'tard piloting and spannering them >-] Keep updating. Ciaran.
  8. The increasing struggle between life and leisure... Yup, recognise that one. If you are not aware of the pump track in Ingleton that looks like it'd be fun for an hour of an evening. It looks tight but big enough in distance, but that was from a fleeting glimpse going past in the work van. With the 'rona it might even be locked up & verboten at the minute, I dunno. Still, looks good on maps 54.1500438,-2.4726677,17
  9. That's ever so pretty. Kinda thing you just stare at for days, beverage in hand.
  10. In another not unusual friday night in LA13 some paraletic darwin took significant exception to being ushered home by his party of absolutely slaughtered drunkards, resulting in an almighty scrap in the gutter opposite our front door, turning our front street into a scene akin to a yates' or 'spoons in the 10mins between boot out time and the slobbering 'tards finding a chips cheese & gravy to pass out face down into. We live on what has become a corridor between two sinkholes, so sadly this has become the sorta thing that invokes a jaded "Meh". However this time this rat-arsed f**kwit decided to have a full nuclear sand-in-his-fanny tantrum, a mere part of which was lobbing what must have been his "tek it home wit cha" unopened bottle of desparado end over end and BOOM! Feckn bullseyed the poor caddy. Now everything within a 5ft radius is covered is sticky chav lager shite to boot. That screens' only done ~5000miles since some urchin put a brick through the last one. Dickheads.
  11. A certain magura clara lever from the early '00's works for a deffo, I've seen pre servo wave shimano master for 2 piston, Deore, Altus etc work with mixed results. Never messed with the idea personally, never had too & I'd really have to be up a creek to bother to be honest.
  12. Some of those t-birds came with those plastic '05 HS11's FWIW, I know I nearly owned one. The T-bird of the same style that did end up being my 1st bike came with the '05 style HS33, and that rear/left hand master lasted me 7+yrs constant use from new, and I never cracked it along the wings (I did the bleed screw up "a little nip" on the spanner check one night C 1am in the bitter cold and the alu split round the port - goodnight Vienna). Doing the cut mod is desirable, and you should probably do it, but it isn't absolute. Attentive lever placement, especially lever angle, and keeping the pivot bolt nipped promptly when they back out will/did in my case keep them alive loooong after their detractors say "they're shit dem, the' just break..." Ditto the plastic TPA balls, never broke one yet - I had a TPA rod bend once, but never killed a ball to date and still have the one from ^ that master in the inspired some ~ 14yrs later. @Karlos28 Regarding your TPA problem, a mate of mine takes the TPA rod out of the lever, (if your's is snapped you'll have to work that bit out) grinds the flats of a m6 nyloc nut on a bench grinder so it fits snuggly in the backside of lever blade (IIRC the end result looks oblong/rectangular), with the nyloc part facing away from the handlebar and the nut being retained by the lever blade. Make it a "poverty" fit that requires a tappy tap tap with a small hammer. Now you thread in an m6 x 25/30mm bolt (choice is yours) from the front of the lever blade. The bolt will now butt up against the linkage like the TPA rod did factory and you'll now have a working TPA.
  13. Morecambe prom would be your best bet in terms of riding pal. At the skill level you say you're at I'd park in the pay and display at The Battery and take in the fountains (right next door) then have a bod down to the midland and where I understand the eden project is gonna go. There is a spot at the lifeboat station (still heading eastwards), and a bunch of new stuff heading for bolton-le-sands but that is a fair trek and is prob of limited interest to you. Now might be the time to head for the train station through the cut through next to B&M and take in the skatepark if you feel so inclined. Then I'd suggest you double back to the battery, grab a different water bottle/snack/whatever from the car and head west down the prom towards Heysham and take in the spots known as "second levels" and "the climbing wall" so named because of the council climbing wall affixed to the retaining wall keeping the grass at bay that flipp rode up then gapped off of to one of the thin ledges. Session using the three thin ledges as one balance line 'til your eyes bleed, tek a drink & repeat... This spot is probably of most value to you as no one's gonna cry if you do slip to bashring. But remember that tyres only is the objective on every object. Leaving scars down every ledge like you're a scooter kid will just ruin it for everyone else. EDIT: This old topic probably explains better, I laid it all out in grid references and it took fooking ages so I am not doing it again Linkleton Ciaran.