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Posts posted by dezmtber
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the tech x2 uses a smaller brake pad to the trial or v2.
best you could do is get organic pads or soft compound aftermarket ones ( allthough i dont think anyone does them) you could possibly cut the hope trials pads down to fit your x2 caliper as they are a simmilar shape just wider and taller. so cut the sides and bottom down.
and use a larger rotor 183 or 203 will do.
as for bedding in water and light braking until a good sharp bite is spot on
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my mum always used to tell me
"youll break you bike again, bouncing round on that suspension"
on a rigid trials bike ha ha it was about 10 years ago thou
and last week an old feller, asked me for a lighter, then told me about his bro daz, then stared calling me daz, even after i said my name is dez about 3 times D:
then he said my mates got potential and we need to get on that internet thing
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never heard of headset cups moving, but i see where your coming from ish
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second that 260g is good. i think even the 3" ones would only be about 300g
its a shade lighter than halo 3" tubes 1000g (1kg)
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i used to own a honda crx. which the front brakes were pretty much permanantly blue in colour and on track days they would smoke from the heat generated ( and when i say smoke like smoke pouring over the bonnet like a small burnout, basicly the brake pads were on fire)
i would not be fittng larger brakes unless this happens to your car on track days or you see blue ish colours on the originl rotors. other wise the pads wont reach there optimum temperature for good working operation.
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i am going to try setting up my mod tubeless one day
if your on 24 or 26 you could try it with a stans rim strip. although you may have problems with tires pulling of the rim?
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only ever use lithium greace on bearings and nothing else,lithium grease is no good for anti seaze
i use silcon based marine greace i find it much better
it has better temperature handling
regular cyclists will benefit more using better waterproof silicon based grease which also will keep your rubber seals fresher and not cause them to dry up.
if your going to buy some grease get some marine silicon greace and some copper slip
i use these white lightning crystal grease
and shimano anti seazei use this because its not as abrasive as copper slip, we use it because it doesnt damage bike seatposts annodizing when moving it up and down loads
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i still use the bash ring on my xc bike
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just spray loads of silicon spray on the alloy once every so often it keeps most corrosion away
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ello. i have been fixing my own bikes for 20 years.
and been fixing bikes in idb shops for 8 years now. and took the cyctec level 2 and 3 nvq
and hers what you should be doing
- Headset : i use shimano anti seaze on the cups only if the metals are different. to avoid corrsion
- BB cups :again anti seaze i use all the time on bb cups there a nighmare to remove without it
- Crank-bb spline :anti seaze on any tipe except square taper. ( i have nver been told why thou) i asume the square taper could get damaged if there is any movement
- Crank bolts :anti seaze also for obvious reasons
- Pedal/crank threads : anti seaze copper slip is best for threads
- Cog and freewheel threads : anti seaze copper slip.
i do also find marine grase is very good on bikes as it silocon based and works on pretty much any surface including bearings.
white lighting do one for bikes now
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i have been on here for ages but took a massive break off trials to ride northshore and 4x
its great to be back into trials, i have missed it
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sure i remember watchin this when i was about 17-18 1st vid i saw was burning calves
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no just long bolts and washers
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i look out of my kitchen window to the roaches, staffordshire. its just the best place for natural riding i also quite like to get the xc bike up there too
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i have a few tricks up my sleeve thwy will fit once i have fiddled around a bit
i know they are designed to fit evolution v brake mounts
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looking forward to going 2 bolt on the boosters currently running a echo 4 bolt.
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cheap small safe items best to use paypal. or if you know them bank transfer.
on anything larger or more expencive : wheels frames brakes ect.. its worth meeting so you can take a proper look, otherwise you will just have to get loads of pics and trust the seller.
although most pepole wont try and pull the wool over your eyes, who knows if you try that the buyer may be a mentalist and come get you ( i know i have been out to find a seller once when being sold a lemon i got my refund )
the number one thing i would look out for on 2nd hand trials kit
cracked or bent frames/forks
un true wheels or loose spokes.
leaking brakes.
cranks with the tapers damaged.
over one year old handlebars (manufactuers say replace every year)
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so your saying just slide on a 4-5mm axle spacer on the drive side sounds well safe. but if i had just spent £200 i would give it a try, maybe worth putting up a swop for a longer axle saint on pb or southern downhill.
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Yeah, that was cool BUT you didn't get points from each activity which lead to a winner with the most points. They had it so that the better you did in the trials and DH the better your start position was in the XC race.
I hate the way they did that! I won the DH, cleaned the trial and came 11th in the XC race, that would have given me enough points to be classed as the best overall rider rather than 11th place. It was just a glorified XC race really.
same same, i cleaned the trials and dh but did bad on the xc
i even rode the dh on semi slicks when it had rained a lot
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the recomended fitment is 2 spacers drive side and one on the non drive side.
i guess with the long bb threads they come with you could use 3 on the drive and none on the non drive.
and to get the 22t away a little thurther use one of the race face chainline adjusting spacers.
really i would have got the race face atlas cranks they would work much better.
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a bit like what singletrack do at lee quarry with the classic weekend
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pretty weird i havent seen anyone with a list containing hundreds of freewheels?
i used to snap the old dicta 18t freewheels in half. its nice to see tensile and white putting out some good quality freewheels on these bikes now
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hi all dez here, i have been a member for ages. but only recently got back into trials bikes.
been of for years now doing northshore, dj and park riding.
this year i bought a giant trance x to get fit on and ride my local forest trails.
and now i got my self an onza master to get back into the sport.
i am starting back in at the matlock comp soon.
i am 28 now so do i just enter the senior class or go in for a lower level as i havent riden trials for ages.
British Trials Cup Round 1 - Bracken Rocks
in Clubs and Competitions
Posted
just entered yeay