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Posts posted by dezmtber
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once everyones stoped wineing about the possibilty that some stock riders still use 22t or 24t cranks
hers hopes new trials brake
looks great and using the race lever looks light
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i thought this was o topic about disc pads then,
rim brakes dont have a bed in like discs do, all you need to do is line them up correctly so they hit the rim dead on flat.
bedding is the pads is basicly wearing down the pad surface so all the pad touches the breaking suface all at once. most rim brakes will do this at the 1st time the brake is applyed (its all down to getting the angle, height and twist adjustments all spot on)keep a good fresh grind on the rim if you use grinding.
disc brakes ware the disc much differently to rims, the outer edges of the disc are coller to the centre and ware out at different rates, older discs will take longer to bed in to newer discs. most disc brakes will take from new 3-4 aplacations of the brake, older discs will take anything upto 3-4 times more aplacations.
to check if your disc is worn check the centre of the surface is not concave (thiner in the centre and thicker on the outside edge and inside edge.
any how you will feel your brake is not working as well as expected. common problems are:
incorectly adjusted pad to rim contact. ( be aware to adjust the pad contact winder all the way in before adjusting the 4 point mounts)
old used unsharp grind, check with your finger by rubbing the rim, a good grind will feel sharp and a bad one you will be able to push your finger hard on the rim and slide your finger without tearing or sort of fileing your finger.
and the last would be a brake in need of fresh oil or more oil. old oil will be unclear and black in colour, it will slowly cause the brakes to seaze and fail. low oil will make the brake feel spongy and the lever will hit the bar before stopping the wheel.if you wind out the adjuster and tap the lever you should see the pads move even on the slightest lever movement.
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i used specialized bg deflect gloves last year through winter they work well and keep all the bike control.
i would also take a look at endura clothing too they make some very good windproof and waterproof trail gloves.
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i am using howitzer bb and hozelfeller cranks now i hear they are stronger
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i broke the axle on my saint cranks. to add to the list of frames and bars snapped
thought you may wanna see
snapped in a good way too many drops i say
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ha ha yeah but he probably right new frame ***
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try a better saw blade. even then it does take ages to do
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maybe you need to adjust the reach, the angle and the position across the handle bar.
also given that you hate maggies. maybe get a good mechanic to setup your brakes if you struggle to get them right.
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i find if the bike rides well. i am more likely to snap it because i feel more confident in doing large power moves
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see if you can get a better pic., is your phone set to "macro" it should focus if you change this setting
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in leek staffordshire.
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i am only an hour away yeay
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is your current frame holding you back ?
an upgrade is only an upgrade if you really need it to ride more
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practice makes perfect just be sure you know what you are practicing and you will get it
make sure you get it in your head 1st and understand the mechanics of what you need to do to achive the goal
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Hey Dez, I've got a real big problem with the BB threads on a spare frame.. there isn't any they've been almost totally stripped. As you're so kindly offering, what do you think are my options when it comes to saving a lovely old frame?
Cheers.
there are threadless bottom brackets avalable for such a problem.
or if you can find a helicoil to fit you can do that and run regular bb again
Welcome to the forum dude
Although I don't do it as a profession, there's something quite therapeutic about tinkering with bikes isn't there? Apart from when you get a stubborn part that won't budge, then it's the opposite and I end up getting pissed off and leaving it half done haha
i dont mind the stubborn parts here and there i kinda get used to it as i do all the maintenace on my car also and its a 1991 honda crx with lots of seazed bolts and whot not
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yeh ur tellin me it was a n amazing ride
without the snap was it good to ride for you?
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i am currently riding xc, 4x and skate parks.
but really wanna get back into mod trials. just need to get my fitness back before i start out again
i have been doing a lot of xc rides over the roaches near leek. it gives me a good run over the rocks and keeps me in touch with my trials back ground.
i have been fixing bikes in local shops for 6 years now and have nvq level 3 bike quaifications. and have a very straight forward approch to engineering, so i like to think out of the box too often as well
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hotlines are th uk distributer for goodridge theres loads of info avalable here hotlines europe goodridge hose
if you really wanna do a custom you can strip the good ridge coating and get some clear rubber paint and put in a pigment to make your own colour.
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Tighten it mate. Angus instead of asking for what one you should buy, ask how to fix your's, cos Adam wouldn't give you a faulty headset.
he may not have enough headset spacers ?
without the correct number it will not clamp the headset
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unfortunatly most bike shops would recomend you a new frame when you bring in a bike where the bb tool has no teeth left to remove the bb.
if you post a pic up of the condition of the teeth i could give you my opinion on the repair.
to put it plain, if there is no way a bb tool can grip the bb. you will need to smash out the bb axle then saw the cups at 2,6 and 10 o clock looking from the side. then chisel the cups out then re tap the bb threads.
doing this will take an hour or two. bike workshops will charge about 30-60 pounds for this.
to do the job your self you will need to knock the axle out from either side using a lump hammer.
the using a hacksaw cut the bb cups in the 3 places being extremly carefull to cause as little damage to the threads as possible.
be sure not to cut into the bb shell (the frame) stop cutting as you get to the threaded areas. then using the chisel hit the three bb cups pieces from the small gap between the frame and cups. you are trying to knock the 3 pieces to the centre.
once this is done you can then take it to a bike shop to have have the threads re taped most shops charge 5-15 pounds for this
hope this helps
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avid and hayes brakes tend to be very sharp brakes. and you should be able to find one cheap from 50-70 pounds new and about 20-30 2nd hand
hope do a trials specific brake that i haven't tryed yet but i have heard they are very good.
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Zona Zip
Ive had an echo an it snaped on the chain stay
no need worry about one chain stay broke. many of the best frames fail unfortunatly. just today i had a giant glory frame come in with a crack where the top tube meets the seat tube.
if you liked the way the echo rode i would recomend you try another. or a frame that measures up the same
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hi welcome to the forum
sounds like you haven't completly mastered balancing on the back wheel yet. if you cannot hop on the spot with out going back ward or dropping the front wheel.
i would have to say you haven't quite got the balance point yet.
this may help possibly if you try pausing inbetween hops to figure your balance point. this will be the point where to feel you are not having to lean back and pull on the bars to lift the front and you are also not pivoting backward over the back wheel.
once you have this dialled. you could experiment with lowering your centre of gravity. by lowering your hips( or bum) at the same time as the front wheel. do this by sticking your bum back and at the same time extending your arms forward.
once you can lower your centre of gravity. then try lifting it back up from where you started.
so thats in order: bring your bike to the back wheel (however you like). hop, then pause, then lower your self to the ground front wheel and your hips, then lift back up and hop.( it should be very similar to a slow hop.
what your trying to do is lower your centre of gravity then lift it really quickly. thats what will give you your upward motion.
once you dial this then with the pedal kick and a little extra leaning forward you will find lurching forward much more fun
sorry for drowning you with an essay have fun riding and remember to ride for your self not to impress others and you should really have fun
Does Using A Brake Booster Improve Your Brake?
in Trials Chat
Posted
anyone ever gone into halfrauds and grabbed a handfull or plastic coated steel v-brakes, they have loads of flex like a mag with no booster. i dont hear anyone prefering those