poopipe
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Posts posted by poopipe
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5 pallets is about 2 and a half foot right? pretty damn good going for 4 months riding imo
Like everyone else says - learning to tap will help. Obviously tapping can get you up higher but it also clears up all those little doubts about exactly how far from the wall you want to be when you give it the big kick.
I got a lot more confident with backwheeling after learning to tap, it gave me the balls to add a bag load more power to my kicks - which gets you more height.
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Gu make MOD & STOCK as do Zona
er - dont zona just make the zip at the moment?
if you read all the other 'should i get a GU' posts you'll see it comes down to 2 things.
1 : do you want to spend £300 or £200 on a frame?
2 : do you want a bike as long as the zona?
the zona is long - long like a python. People who have them love them.
there are 2 lengths of GU - both are shorter than the zona.
I think the general concensus is that a shorter bike is better for a beginner because it's easier to get on the back wheel whereas a longer frame gives you more leverage for the big moves but is harder to get on the backwheel.
think about what you ride now, decide whether it's too long or too short or just right and then buy a frame that suits your decision best.
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Anyone who says 'i don't wear one 'cos i look like a dick' neds a slap.
Look at yourself - Helmet or no helmet, you're on a bike with no seat, hopping on a wall/rock.
Cool :lol:
I wear mine whenever i ride.
I'll confess to not wearing a lid if i'm just popping down the shop for some fags but - like he says - you look like a twat bouncing around on your back wheel helmet or not - epecially on a mod.
better a twat than a cripple i say.
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i just got some 17quid TSG gloves from the bmx shop to replace my spanky UFO mx gloves (which stretched and are now baggy mx gloves) , they seem pretty good so far although they arent nearly as warm as the UFOs . make sure they're nice and snug or you get blisters...
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Cheers for the help guys I think I will put it on the house insurence.
Thanks
Deonn.
You can probably get the house insurance extended to cover the bike if its not at home - as long as its locked up etc. .theres a £1000 limit on my policy if i do that but my bike's not worth that so its fine .
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half a mile is f**k all on a trials bike
personally though i would get a trials bike and a peice of shit hack bike to get to uni and back, one that won't get stolen, won't mind if it gets damaged, one that you can leave overnight and not worry about incase you go out on the piss
yup - i do 2 miles to work most days on my mod and its only unpleasant if ive been drinking the night before. its pretty safe where i lock it up so im not too worried about some scumbag half-inching it - otherwise i'd go down the bikeshop and get me a 60quid shitbike for the journey.
regarding which mod to get..
save up the extra for a t-pro . Ive not had a t-bird but my old dabomb was pretty much the same deal, the t-pro is a much better bike in terms of feel and spec.
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Biggest tap I've done so far is 48", but I'm still really inconsistent with them. A lot of the time I'll end up backwheeling the wall, but it just sorta looks like I spaz out half-way up :turned:
oo - yours are bigger than mine.
Then again i saw a video of you bunnyhopping 4 foot to backwheel a couple of days ago so its no real surprise. Any tips for mid-air tapping or is it just pedal and hope ?
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its a lovely looking spec but why the hell havent you invested in some decent graphics hardware ?
drop one of the hard drives, stick a pair of 6800 ultras in there and double your memory - then you've got a beast
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its easy and fun - once you've got over the fear part.
i learnt them on walls about 2&half to 3 feet high, its low enough that you'll stand a good chance of getting up if you miss the tap but high enough that the bike has to be properly lifted to actually hit it.
Its definitely safest if you tap just as the bike is about to leave / leaving the ground - full on midair taps have a tendency to tip me over the front atm but i reckon thats just a matter of practice.
i find taps are better than bunnyhops in some situations cos you dont need much forward speed to get you up a big wall. i also find it easier to get to back wheel from a tap than from the standard backwheel method - i guess cos the bike goes higher
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like everyone else says..
creepy crawlers - they work on everything except wet skate ramps and after several months street riding theyve still got lovely big nobbles on.
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practice practice practice..
im crap at hopping but i got a couple of tips recently that helped a lot.
1. bendy legs are good - you should find you can balance for quite a while without hopping by moving your body around on the bike. compressing on landing will reduce the shock through the bike and prevent it from pulling you where it wants to go rather than where you want to go.
2. lazy is good - only hop when you need to adjust your balance rather than hopping for the sake of it. little, relaxed hops are better than big hops cos you can control the forces when you land better
3. use the pedals to move the bike about - if you tend to move backwards while hopping , doing tiny little pedalkicks will keep you in the right place.
4. when you're in the air, release the back brake and level the pedals out - this puts you in the right body position for the next hop.
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nearest testicle?
both of mine tend to be pretty much the same distance from the stem
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How much easier is probally 26 divided by 20 X the height of the rail in T-F inches minus the riders weight...... (Y)
Interesting
T-F inches aren't a solid number though. they get bigger the longer you've been riding. You need another step in the equation.
lets see....
26/20 X (height / years riding ) - riders weight
where ....
height is in T-F inches
years riding is in real years (T-F years vary wildly in length)
weight is in real kilograms
- we really need a maths graduate to think this out properly, i got confused at A-level and went to art college instead
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mods feel really untable to ride,
...which makes it more fun
mods are good because....
they have stupidly fat back tyres and tiny wheels
you can fit them in the back of a punto
they don't have gears (gears are for girls)
i've got one
they look a bit like a stick drawing of a cow on wheels ( is it just me that thinks that? ) - i like cows
people will steal the stock first if you park it next to one :D
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So your "£80 vs £120" comparison becomes "£80 vs around about £180". £100 more? For a totally unproven hub? Erm...
where does it say im supposed to think before i post :(
i reckon i could do it for 140-150 making use of my pile of bits but point well made
unproven ... - why do you think im encouraging other people to buy them? (Y)
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i find it amazing you even get a choice. im still at the yay! i made it without sliding off again stage.
im finding to front then both getes me the most height- you can kinda hoik the back up that way
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it makes no difference at all as long as you dont slap your bottom bracket into stuff...
a bashplate clearly protects your bike more than a bashring - mostly because its bigger. As far as i understand it you arent allowed to go to bash in UCI trials comps which explains the rash of bashplate free frames.
If you dont ride comps and have a tendency to slip off the corner of walls when pedalling up them i'd say a bashplate was a necessity
that said , the gu is looking rather tasty, i might buy one of them when im sure they dont break
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what are you riding now? whats wrong with it? too short? too long? too heavy?
if you already have a python you'll probably like the new python. if you have a monty then you'll probably like the short GU, if you have a t-pro then the 1030 WB GU would probably feel much the same.
if you havent got a trials bike yet why are you buying a £300 quid frame to start on? (forget that bit if you're dead rich)
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i guess my only other real hobby is my girlfriend, well not o much a hobby as a full time job. bless her.
tell me about it...
when i not at her beck and call i make pretty 3d models for game type things. i like my job, i made 2 submarines last week
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i mite wait for it then because my acs is starting to skip quite often. for the price of an acs i mite just buy a new one now and get the tensile one when it comes out.
my thoughts exactly - it doesnt seem worth forking out 80quid for an Eno when you can get one of those echo freehubs for 120quid so short of dropping FFW altogether waiting for the Tensile is the best plan.
in the meantime, after several failures with glue and threadlock on my ACS i've taken to beating the absolute shit out of it when i tighten the lockring up (masonary nail + big hammer :( ), i think ive managed to bend the lockring enough to keep it in place cos i was out for hours today and it didnt skip or lose a single bearing.
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its very pretty isnt it..
what were you riding before and how does it compare ?
I'm not sure how very short + massive BB rise would feel
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just to add to the other 2 comments that weren't about what it looks like
CLS pythons are very long. if you're less than 5'8" you won't be able to reach the bars.
I dont think theres a short python for 2006. There is a short team for 2006 so that might make the decision easier.
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i dropped 21 feet to sinking sand on my monty a while back before i sold it.
john
http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~logicals.../images/ant.wmv
2 questions.
1: did you tell him you'd done that before he bought it
2: is that a decade to disaster about halfway through the video cos if it is you deserve a dirty great biscuit
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bunnyhops are groovy unless you're trying to land on something small or don't have space for a run-up.
you get a lot more control over where you're going if you pedal up stuff and i find i can get a lot more height in tighter spaces.
Knee/shin Pads
in Beginners Trials Chat
Posted
i think i've got veggies - ive got 661 shin/knee combo things anyway
they get a bit hot but they've stopped everything my pedals can throw at me so far and they've stopped me getting pebbles lodged in my kneecaps on several occasions. They didnt cost much - i think i got them in halfords but cant quite remember.
in all, pretty good shinpads