Walleee
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Posts posted by Walleee
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I would keep it the same colour and use the money towards something else like a better upgrade, to be honest I quite like the colour scheme of your bike as shown in your signature.... :$
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Whats all the yellow stuff in there? looks like brass shavings or something.......
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chainreactioncycles.com have the levers your looking for I think.
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I cant back it up, but I know more PowerPro cranks have snaped than Middleburn's, and its nothing to do with the fact that FSA have sold more cranks than Middleburn......(if they have?)
MiddleBurns are the bench mark as far as im concerned for trial use.
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Heat it up so it expands, thus loosening the crank off.
(you will most probly have a big brown stain on your cranks, were they have burnt)
If you heat it until the metal is discoloured/burnt, you run the risk of changing the materials properties,and without cooling them down properly you can render the cranks VERY hard, but brittle, and if that happens the next time the crank hits a rock it would shatter.
Just something to bear in mind.
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Right, first of all its the iron in the water that very and i mean slowly f**ks your seals up, you can buy de-ironised water or if you freeze water it takes the iron out of it, so your choice :S
cheers andy
Is it not de-IONISED water that you buy? The stuff the used in chemistry labs in school, which is used in car batteries?
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Pro Desktop is old, I used it back in school, ok for very basic things.
Solidworks is where its at these days.
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The design of those components make them heavier without adding any strength to them.... Just something to think about. I wish you the best of luck with the business, it's something i'd like to do myself one day.
About OUR Products:We make all OUR products to high standARDS. We have riders who test the wear and tear of all OUR products. We aim to keep OUR customers happy. We are aiming to be a company with a great reputation of cheap, Excellent and Durable products.
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http://www.mme.tcd.ie/~jbadger/grindingpage.html
Facts about Grinding: Grinding is a process of material removal in which a wheel composed of many hard abrasive grits wears away a softer material.Where is the wheel when using a CNC Mill?
The guy on OTN clearly stated that he used a custom tool he made himself, which was not a wheel.......
If im wrong, then id appreciate the inside knowledge you have on mechanical processes.
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i did not say it was ground by hand.
It wasnt ground by anything, it was CNC Machined, a process which has nothing to do with grinding....
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It would work because it helps to increase the friction between the pads and the rims but its definately not easier than grinding. That rim does actually look like a knurl in that the 'grind' is patterned leaving lots of small squares, id be very interested to know what sort of grinder/grinding disk was used to achieve that finish....
(Y)-->
QUOTE(the big B @ Nov 24 2005, 12:47 AM) ←i read about it, and apparently thats not actually knurled. its just a really deep grind.
i just trawled through that forum, god so much crap its unreal....
Anyway, it was created in a CNC mill with a custom tool, 'anotherash' is the username of the person who did it.
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a knurl is what you put on a smooth round surface to give a bit of grip, check out the little rod below the tool itself in the above picture, the right hand side is knurled, while the left is untouched.
They are knurled....
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Its usually done on circular components with a lathe and a knurl tool
Those two arms can be put closer together and its the round bits at the end which make the knurl, they have to made made of a stronger material than the components itself, of the component will flatten the knurl tool!
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As said above it most likely the freewheel rounding out.
Just replace the freewheel (ACS clause will do) and just get your local bike shop to put it on.
It wont be your bottom bracket, as if it was knackerd, the cranks would still turn round.
Which threads?
If it was the bottom bracket and the cranks were still turning, which I understand they are, he would still get drive when the cranks turned clockwise.
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No, if your pedalling and not going anywhere its the freewheel/freehub as someone else said, unless of course you have no teeth on your chainring(as someone else said) but in that case your chain would constantly fall off.
iIf you can turn the pedals, then the cranks taper wouldnt be broken.
What type of bike it is??
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To get your account validated, simply make a reply to an existing thread or start a new one within New Members Chat.
Its not as simple as that at all.
Threads such as this wouldn't exist if the validation process was a bit clearer.....
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e-mail sent, thanks a million!
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Has anyone got dimensions for a Monty X-Alp Bash Plate as I hope to draw one up in CAD.
Mainly looking for distances between the 3 bolts and the extension of the 'U' under the bottom bracket (hope that's not too confusing)
If I end up getting this all drawn up I will be making it to put on an X-Alp im buying soon.
Help appreciated
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Very nice indeed (Y)
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The bike is secondhand from a friend who uses the original wheels on his brisa now, Unfortunately I dont have much money at the minute, so the x-alp will do for the mean time, once i get a bike together, getting a new frame isnt such a big deal...
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nah, you should be fine with the wheel set unless your gunna drop of like 14ft. just make sure they are well tensioned :P
Not to be annoying, but which of the two are you referring to?
Also, can anyone advise as to wether a 19" rear wheel will fit on an x-alp?
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After a break of about 4 years in riding trials (have been on a BMX mostly) i really feel an urge to start riding again. I used to ride a stock bike, with fairly mid range spec.
Now im thinking this time around of getting a MOD bike, i happen to know someone who is wanting to get rid of a monty x-alp with forks, bottom bracket, cranks, brisa bars, monty stem, and no doubt a few other smaller bits n bobs. Mainly all I need is a set of pedals, brakes, and wheels. Ill be happy enough to settle for v-brakes for a while, but will want to upgrade to a rear HS33 at some point, followed by one on the front or perhaps a disc up front. Pedals are not a problem as they can be picked up for 20 quid.
I have been looking at both the onza budget wheelset and the T-pro wheelset.
Obviously at 60quid for the budget set i wonder if they are any good and what is the extra 40 notes going to get me and most of all, is it worth it?
Keeping in mind that im light(9 stone) fairly smooth, and can do all my own maintenance (wheek truing) will I have pronblems with the budget wheelset?
And finally does anyone have a picture of the budget set? Supercycles website doesnt have any image for them...
Helmet Time!
in Trials Chat
Posted
Ive been considering waiting until after xmas to get a new helmet, any thoughts on weather its a good enough idea to wait until the january sales?