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deonn trials 55

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Everything posted by deonn trials 55

  1. Earlier on james richerdsons (mr pitbull)`s acount got hacked and they made a stupid topic (zoo video 30 is here) which has resulted in his account been suspended.I`ve been talking to him a couple of minuite`s ago and he had no idea what had happened .Some D**khead has obviusly hacked his account.And this is not fair at all.Can one of the mods please put him back on here.
  2. Go to your local halfords and look for specialist mineral fluid.It`s only £6.50 and you get a 1l of it.It`s the same as the magura stuff but way cheaper. Cheers Deonn
  3. Well I don`t totally agree that it is a zoo copy.As it is his sigature frame , which zoo no longer make.
  4. I know a few people including me have been waiting for the zhi frame.There is quite a few parts on there too looking bling.www.zhibike.com. .It`s pretty cool.But i`m not sure where you can buy the frame. Thanks Deonn.
  5. nice riding keep it up dude.To make the video abit better put some veriaty e.g getting up things ect.
  6. But still if you are looking for that video click here and then click on zoo video 25. Cheers Deonn.
  7. cheers for the replies.I`m getting the idea that I will be able to just leave my brake as it is while i`m away.A couple more replies would be useful. Thanks deonn
  8. Hello guys.As I am going on holiday for and my bike will be sat in the cold house for a week.And I have a water bleed in the front brake i`m not sure whether to just leave it or drain the brake and do it again when I get back.I just need to know if it will be ok or not? Thanks Deonn I know ther has been a couple of topics about water bleeding but nothing has coverd this.I used search but no luck.
  9. I have nothing other to say than plazmatic pads.Best pads I have ever run , you won`t regret it.
  10. Persuming it is a mod hub don`t get a chris king they cost a bomb and they are no better than a profile.I can`t really think of a good hub wich is under £100.If you strech your buget a bit more definately get a profile.That means you won`t have to run a front freewheel.You would probably spend quite a bit of money replacing freewheels every so often.You can get a profile hub from www.tartybikes.co.uk. Hope this helps. Thanks Deonn. P.s If you are talking about a stock hub then get a hope hub.Strong and reliable.
  11. When I snapped my magura they sent my a whole new hs33 , I had to pay £20 but it`s not bad to say that I got a whole new brake.I got the brake from chainreactioncycles.I`m not sure if it will be the same with where ever you bought yours from or if you got it on the bike.Just give them a ring where ever you got it from and they should be able to sort you one out for free or for a small price. Thanks Deonn.
  12. My mate has snapped 2 pairs of them in the same spot.
  13. Leeds is the best place I have ridden.There is loads or gaps, sidehops, rails ect.The places in leeds arnt very spread out either.Shipley glen is also very good for natural. Cheers Deonn.
  14. Well I`m not too sure if I would go for tensiles is I was you as my mate has snapped two of them. The middleburns are really strong cranks ,I would go with them.I`m sure the new echo cranks will be good as most products that are echo are. Cheers Deonn
  15. Personally I think the T-pro rides better than the T-mag.The t-mag is really heavy and not flicky at all.But if your going to be upgrading the frame after cristmas anyway get the Monty 219 magura disc click here £491 .I started on one 1 of those and they are really nice.Pretty light aswell. (Y) Cheers Deonn
  16. The echo hub hasn`t been out long enough to compare it to the profile yet.You could wait about a month and see what the reveiws are like on the new echo hub.I have a profile and I really like mine it hasn`t skipped so far since I got it two weeks ago.I can`t really tell you which one is best but I love my profile hub. Hope this helps. Thanks Deonn.
  17. Here is two pics of the bike.LINK. Scroll down abit and there they are. Thanks Deonn.
  18. Yes deffinately limewire all the way it`s super fast and reliable.
  19. I run monty bars , they are really really nice.And make you feel in control of the bike , the only downside of the bars is that they are abit pricey costing £45.I haven`t heard anything bad about zoo bars they seem to be very good.And are pretty cheap.So if i was you I would get zoo or monry bars. :turned: Cheers Deonn
  20. Just a couple of words of advise to make your brake work abit better: Pads=Either plazmatic pads with a ground rim or zoo pads on a clean rim (with abit of tar) Just to make your brake abit stiffer you can get a booster (echo ones are good) You can perchase both of these items from tartybikes. If the pads move in and back out slowley or the lever is spongey bleed the brake.This is how to bleed a magura hs33.You will need to buy a magura rim brake servise kit first though :P .You can buy these from www.chainreactioncycles.com **Start by backing off your TPA (screw clockwise!) or pad adjuster screw and reach adjuster (screw both of them counter-clockwise!). This is very important and must not be missed. 1. Loosen the clamp bolt on the lever and tip the lever up so it's parallel to the floor. 2. Attach the clear plastic line and barbed fitting to the syringe and attach the barbed fitting to the other line. (barbed at one end, screw-in fittings are supplied in the Bleed Kit). 3. Fill the syringe with fluid (suck it out of the bottle) and then push out as much air as you can (syringe tip pointing upwards, curve the pipe down into the bottle). Big Tip - have the bottle held securely so you don't knock it over when wagging the pipe around. I clamp it between my knees or in the vice. 4. Remove the bleed screw from the slave (wheel) cylinder and attach the syringe (with clear pipe and screw-in fitting), keep the syringe pointed down (plunger up) so if there is any air in it, it won't go into your system. Note: successful bleeding relies heavily on the vacuum principle. It’s like the "finger over the end of the straw" trick. Fluid won’t drain out of the straw until you take your finger off the end. It’s the same with hydraulic brakes – open the lower end only and no fluid drains out. If you bleed them the reverse way (syringe at the lever end) the fluid would tend to drain out of the system when you're messing around connecting, introducing air bubbles which will have to be removed. 5. Remove the bleed screw from the lever and attach the vent tube. Make sure you don't squeeze the lever before you have the syringe and vent tube attached or you'll squirt fluid everywhere. Please don't squeeze the lever anyways as there is no point to doing this. *Get a catch container to catch the fluid coming out of the lever. Place the end of the drain hose in it. You can tape the bottle somewhere or have a helper hold it. I have a small bottle with a thin wire wrapped around its neck and I hang it from my shift cables. 6. Squeeze the syringe slowly, pushing its full contents through the system. Stop before you get to any air that's inside the syringe. 7. Once syringe is empty, remove the vent tube (at the brake lever) and re-install the bleed screw. This step is very important – this is the "finger over the straw" move. It will keep the fluid in the system when the next step is performed. 8. Remove the syringe screw-in fitting and re-install the bleed screw on the slave. If you bleed the brakes any differently than the above steps, the chances of air being in the system is great. The above steps ensure that oil will not siphon back through the system and drag some air with it. You have been warned. The next steps might not be necessary but it will truly give you air-free brakes - Lay the bike on its side with the lever you're working on being the lower lever. Remove the bleed screw (which is pointing UP) again and now just drip fluid into the hole until it is completely full. Re-install the bleed screw (some fluid will get displaced, that's okay). That's it, you're done. You now have a completely bled system free of air. Go ride! Or Quickbleed ! If you just have to replace a lever and you don't have to disturb a slave cylinder or a line, you will be able to get away with just filling the master (lever) cylinder and you won't have to do a complete bleed. When you remove the line from the lever, just make sure it doesn't wave around or fluid will be lost and a full bleed will have to be done. A vacuum will allow the fluid to remain in the line. Remove the fitting from the lever and tuck the line in among your other cables or tape it in place. Just don't let it wag or snap around. Replace the lever and screw the line fitting back into it snugly. Use a new olive - you'll have to cut the line with a very sharp knife just behind the old olive. Remember - the fitting is going into aluminum so don't go nuts. Also, you MUST back the pad adjuster and lever throw adjuster right off with a 2mm allen wrench. Lay the bike on its side and prepare to work on the lever who's bleed screw is facing up. Remove the bleed screw. Fill your bleed syring (or an eye dropper) with brake oil and drip it into the lever until it ALMOST fills the screw cavity - leave a gap from the top. Operate the lever S-L-O-W-L-Y for its full travel and you will see bubbles rise and pop. Go verrrrry slowly or oil will spill out. When the lever is back to the bars, release it slowly and re-fill the lever body. Squeeze the lever again slowly and repeat the squeeze-release and fill sequence until no more bubbles surface. It will take about 5-6 full pulls to accomplish this. You'll wonder where all the oil is going. When you're sure it's full then try tapping the lever to open it a mere gnat's whisker. You may find other small bubbles appear. This is good! Repeat and re-fill until no more bubbles appear at all. Completely top up the lever right to the top of the threads and replace the bleed screw. Now squeeze the lever several times to circulate the fluid, this will also cause any air that still might be in the line or master cylinder to rise to the top. Perform a Quickbleed top up once more, reset your TPA/pad adjuster and reach adjuster and you're done. Hope this helps. Thanks Deonn.
  21. A profile mini cassette hub will definately fit your frame without weakening it or anything.It will just slot in like the hub you have now.Sorry I don`t have pics.The only frame the profile hub will weaken is the monty frames as they arn`t very wide so you have to stretch them.You have nothing to worrie about.Get one. <_< Cheers Deonn
  22. Hey dude. I started trials on a saracen x-ile.I was just learning to do endo `s ,back hopping,bunnyhopping,and trying to ride along rocks,wheelieing off walls,balanceing on walls curbs ect.Just practise things like that.Then when you get on a actual trials bike you can do the basics like hopping and things.I`t really helps starting on a bike like that.As for brakes I would get the heatsink v brake pads as mark said.Or buy a rear hydrolic hs33 with evo mounts.These can be found at www.chainreactioncycles.com.And use some tar on your rims , it can be found at the side of a road where the road joins or it can be bought on ebay.You just have to rub a bit onto your rims and it will give your brake a sqeak .And your away. Thanks Deonn.
  23. No the chinese rider yao zhi is not on the team any more.I heard it was due to an argument of some sort.And back to the 05 and 06 differences.I may be wrong but I think the 06 version has a bit more bb rise. Thanks Deonn.
  24. **Start by backing off your TPA (screw clockwise!) or pad adjuster screw and reach adjuster (screw both of them counter-clockwise!). This is very important and must not be missed. 1. Loosen the clamp bolt on the lever and tip the lever up so it's parallel to the floor. 2. Attach the clear plastic line and barbed fitting to the syringe and attach the barbed fitting to the other line. (barbed at one end, screw-in fittings are supplied in the Bleed Kit). 3. Fill the syringe with fluid (suck it out of the bottle) and then push out as much air as you can (syringe tip pointing upwards, curve the pipe down into the bottle). Big Tip - have the bottle held securely so you don't knock it over when wagging the pipe around. I clamp it between my knees or in the vice. 4. Remove the bleed screw from the slave (wheel) cylinder and attach the syringe (with clear pipe and screw-in fitting), keep the syringe pointed down (plunger up) so if there is any air in it, it won't go into your system. Note: successful bleeding relies heavily on the vacuum principle. It’s like the "finger over the end of the straw" trick. Fluid won’t drain out of the straw until you take your finger off the end. It’s the same with hydraulic brakes – open the lower end only and no fluid drains out. If you bleed them the reverse way (syringe at the lever end) the fluid would tend to drain out of the system when you're messing around connecting, introducing air bubbles which will have to be removed. 5. Remove the bleed screw from the lever and attach the vent tube. Make sure you don't squeeze the lever before you have the syringe and vent tube attached or you'll squirt fluid everywhere. Please don't squeeze the lever anyways as there is no point to doing this. *Get a catch container to catch the fluid coming out of the lever. Place the end of the drain hose in it. You can tape the bottle somewhere or have a helper hold it. I have a small bottle with a thin wire wrapped around its neck and I hang it from my shift cables. 6. Squeeze the syringe slowly, pushing its full contents through the system. Stop before you get to any air that's inside the syringe. 7. Once syringe is empty, remove the vent tube (at the brake lever) and re-install the bleed screw. This step is very important – this is the "finger over the straw" move. It will keep the fluid in the system when the next step is performed. 8. Remove the syringe screw-in fitting and re-install the bleed screw on the slave. If you bleed the brakes any differently than the above steps, the chances of air being in the system is great. The above steps ensure that oil will not siphon back through the system and drag some air with it. You have been warned. The next steps might not be necessary but it will truly give you air-free brakes - Lay the bike on its side with the lever you're working on being the lower lever. Remove the bleed screw (which is pointing UP) again and now just drip fluid into the hole until it is completely full. Re-install the bleed screw (some fluid will get displaced, that's okay). That's it, you're done. You now have a completely bled system free of air. Go ride! Or Quickbleed ! If you just have to replace a lever and you don't have to disturb a slave cylinder or a line, you will be able to get away with just filling the master (lever) cylinder and you won't have to do a complete bleed. When you remove the line from the lever, just make sure it doesn't wave around or fluid will be lost and a full bleed will have to be done. A vacuum will allow the fluid to remain in the line. Remove the fitting from the lever and tuck the line in among your other cables or tape it in place. Just don't let it wag or snap around. Replace the lever and screw the line fitting back into it snugly. Use a new olive - you'll have to cut the line with a very sharp knife just behind the old olive. Remember - the fitting is going into aluminum so don't go nuts. Also, you MUST back the pad adjuster and lever throw adjuster right off with a 2mm allen wrench. Lay the bike on its side and prepare to work on the lever who's bleed screw is facing up. Remove the bleed screw. Fill your bleed syring (or an eye dropper) with brake oil and drip it into the lever until it ALMOST fills the screw cavity - leave a gap from the top. Operate the lever S-L-O-W-L-Y for its full travel and you will see bubbles rise and pop. Go verrrrry slowly or oil will spill out. When the lever is back to the bars, release it slowly and re-fill the lever body. Squeeze the lever again slowly and repeat the squeeze-release and fill sequence until no more bubbles surface. It will take about 5-6 full pulls to accomplish this. You'll wonder where all the oil is going. When you're sure it's full then try tapping the lever to open it a mere gnat's whisker. You may find other small bubbles appear. This is good! Repeat and re-fill until no more bubbles appear at all. Completely top up the lever right to the top of the threads and replace the bleed screw. Now squeeze the lever several times to circulate the fluid, this will also cause any air that still might be in the line or master cylinder to rise to the top. Perform a Quickbleed top up once more, reset your TPA/pad adjuster and reach adjuster and you're done. Cheers Deonn
  25. Yes i`m very sure monty do make a brake booster.But it is specialy made for monty frame`s so it`s no use if you don`t have a monty.Just ring cleanbikes up and ask them about it. Cheers Deonn P.s the way you can check if you can run it is just have a look under where the rear brake mounts are.There should be a thread on either side to where the booster screws in. :(
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