deonn trials 55

I use lizard skin lock on grips.They are the best I have ever used i`ve tried try all rubber grips ,monty foam grips,profile grips,and monty rubber grips.But they don`t beat the lizard skin lock on`s.They have a pretty soft compound so they don`t hurt your hands , they don`t wear down fast at all.They are lock ons so they don`t slide down your bars.You can buy them from www.evanscycles.com. Cheers Deonn.

The nick goddard dvd trailer can be found Here. You have to become a member before downloading the vid.It will only take a second. Cheers Deonn.

Cheers for the help guys I think I will put it on the house insurence. Thanks Deonn.

Hi guys. I`m trying to find somewhere where I can insure my Monty Ti but i can`t seem to find anywhere.I had my Saracen X-ile insured by E&L insurence but they won`t do trials bikes.Where do you insure your bikes. Thanks Deonn.

That sounds good (Y)

Definately get the zoo .xtp are NOT made for street and will probabley start to crack or even snap from pure street use.The zoo is super strong and will not snap on the streets , they are one of the strongest mod frames around .So Get the zoo and you will be fine. (Y) Cheers Deonn.

This sounds awsem I will help out and do as much as I can. (Y) Deonn..

You should deffinately get a profile hub.That means you won`t need to run front freewheel which saves a lot of hassel.The hub has 48 reliable engagement points and is a really strong hub.You can get these hubs from tartybikes for £160. (Y) .Or you could wait abit and see the reveiws about the new echo hubs they have 72 engagement points and come in a range of colours like the profile.But I can`t really say much more about this hub as it has only been out about a week. Cheers Deonn

Take a look here the topic has been posted.Click here. As for which one they both look really nice but I would go for the zoo .But it`s all personal preference really. Cheers Deonn.

For a stock bike I recomend a maxxis minion 2.35 on the rear .My mate runs this tyre and it`s really grippy and has some spring in the tyre.And it`s also very puncture resistent.As for the front I would either get a maxxis minion front tyre or a panaracer fire 2.1 .The paneracer looked really grippy for the front when a saw tunnicliffe use it. :( So rear=maxxis minion2.35 front=Paneracer fire 2.1 You can buy the maxxis from www.tartybikes.co.uk and the paneracer i`m guessing from www.chainreactioncycles.com. Cheers Deonn.

Hi there,the way to get sponsered is to make a really good video and get it well edited.And send it to some bike shops asking if they could sponsor you.E.G secndlayerclothing,interactclothing ect.But it isn`t the end of the world if you don`t get sponsord just keep doing your best and constantly pushing your limits. Thanks Deonn.

learn to side hop with both wheels first by just leaning your hips into the frame, shifting your weight to the same side and hopping. then just straighten everything up, once you can do this try doing it in a same way you bunnyhop i.e. lifting the front and then the rear, shifting your body to the side in the same way. once youve got that sorted and you can do pedal hops on the rear wheel with some control, try combing the weight movment that you learnt berfore with a normal pedal hop, but instead of using you preload and pedal kick to move forwads use the motion to lift the bike up moving your weight to the side and tucking the bike underneath you. I`ve only been sidehopping for about 4 month and I can now get 43 inch so I hope this post helps. Thanks Deonn. (Y)

I have Monty cranks at the moment I love them they are nice and short oand easy to gap with.They are also pretty light.The only downside is that they are abit weak , as they normally start to crack on the inside of the crank where it says 158 thats the lenght of the cranks.They can be found at www.cleanbikes.co.uk.I would definately recommend them if you are a light(ish) rider.But I would recommend getting some of the new echo cranks if you like to do big drops and stuff like that.The length of them is 170 mm they come in a range of colours and you can get them from www.tartybikes.co.uk.And the zoo cranks are also extreamly strong too if you like the look of those they are also 170mm but they are slightly hevier than the echo cranks. Thanks Deonn.

**Start by backing off your TPA (screw clockwise!) or pad adjuster screw and reach adjuster (screw both of them counter-clockwise!). This is very important and must not be missed. 1. Loosen the clamp bolt on the lever and tip the lever up so it's parallel to the floor. 2. Attach the clear plastic line and barbed fitting to the syringe and attach the barbed fitting to the other line. (barbed at one end, screw-in fittings are supplied in the Bleed Kit). 3. Fill the syringe with fluid (suck it out of the bottle) and then push out as much air as you can (syringe tip pointing upwards, curve the pipe down into the bottle). Big Tip - have the bottle held securely so you don't knock it over when wagging the pipe around. I clamp it between my knees or in the vice. 4. Remove the bleed screw from the slave (wheel) cylinder and attach the syringe (with clear pipe and screw-in fitting), keep the syringe pointed down (plunger up) so if there is any air in it, it won't go into your system. Note: successful bleeding relies heavily on the vacuum principle. It’s like the "finger over the end of the straw" trick. Fluid won’t drain out of the straw until you take your finger off the end. It’s the same with hydraulic brakes – open the lower end only and no fluid drains out. If you bleed them the reverse way (syringe at the lever end) the fluid would tend to drain out of the system when you're messing around connecting, introducing air bubbles which will have to be removed. 5. Remove the bleed screw from the lever and attach the vent tube. Make sure you don't squeeze the lever before you have the syringe and vent tube attached or you'll squirt fluid everywhere. Please don't squeeze the lever anyways as there is no point to doing this. *Get a catch container to catch the fluid coming out of the lever. Place the end of the drain hose in it. You can tape the bottle somewhere or have a helper hold it. I have a small bottle with a thin wire wrapped around its neck and I hang it from my shift cables. 6. Squeeze the syringe slowly, pushing its full contents through the system. Stop before you get to any air that's inside the syringe. 7. Once syringe is empty, remove the vent tube (at the brake lever) and re-install the bleed screw. This step is very important – this is the "finger over the straw" move. It will keep the fluid in the system when the next step is performed. 8. Remove the syringe screw-in fitting and re-install the bleed screw on the slave. If you bleed the brakes any differently than the above steps, the chances of air being in the system is great. The above steps ensure that oil will not siphon back through the system and drag some air with it. You have been warned. The next steps might not be necessary but it will truly give you air-free brakes - Lay the bike on its side with the lever you're working on being the lower lever. Remove the bleed screw (which is pointing UP) again and now just drip fluid into the hole until it is completely full. Re-install the bleed screw (some fluid will get displaced, that's okay). That's it, you're done. You now have a completely bled system free of air. Go ride! Or Quickbleed ! If you just have to replace a lever and you don't have to disturb a slave cylinder or a line, you will be able to get away with just filling the master (lever) cylinder and you won't have to do a complete bleed. When you remove the line from the lever, just make sure it doesn't wave around or fluid will be lost and a full bleed will have to be done. A vacuum will allow the fluid to remain in the line. Remove the fitting from the lever and tuck the line in among your other cables or tape it in place. Just don't let it wag or snap around. Replace the lever and screw the line fitting back into it snugly. Use a new olive - you'll have to cut the line with a very sharp knife just behind the old olive. Remember - the fitting is going into aluminum so don't go nuts. Also, you MUST back the pad adjuster and lever throw adjuster right off with a 2mm allen wrench. Lay the bike on its side and prepare to work on the lever who's bleed screw is facing up. Remove the bleed screw. Fill your bleed syring (or an eye dropper) with brake oil and drip it into the lever until it ALMOST fills the screw cavity - leave a gap from the top. Operate the lever S-L-O-W-L-Y for its full travel and you will see bubbles rise and pop. Go verrrrry slowly or oil will spill out. When the lever is back to the bars, release it slowly and re-fill the lever body. Squeeze the lever again slowly and repeat the squeeze-release and fill sequence until no more bubbles surface. It will take about 5-6 full pulls to accomplish this. You'll wonder where all the oil is going. When you're sure it's full then try tapping the lever to open it a mere gnat's whisker. You may find other small bubbles appear. This is good! Repeat and re-fill until no more bubbles appear at all. Completely top up the lever right to the top of the threads and replace the bleed screw. Now squeeze the lever several times to circulate the fluid, this will also cause any air that still might be in the line or master cylinder to rise to the top. Perform a Quickbleed top up once more, reset your TPA/pad adjuster and reach adjuster and you're done. Cheers Deonn

If I had to choose between the t-pro and the T-mag I would choose the T-pro.The t-pro is quite abit lighter and is easier to hop on back wheel ect.Plus the t-pro is £100 pounds cheaper and you could upgrade the forks or bars and stem.Definately get the t-Pro. Cheers Deonn.

If I recall correctly craig lee scott has made one 26 inch video that is zoo video 15 which can be found here LINK . Cheers Deonn.

I think the echo would be a great starter bike if your willing to pay that much for a starter bike.I would suggest getting a second hand bike to start off with e.g Koxx level boss ,onza t-pro,echo team,.But just have a look on forsale/wanted list on this forum and see what you can find or take a look on ebay.My friend picked up a koxx levelboss for £400 and it was in near new condition. Thanks Deonn