sex_on_wheels

IM DEFENITLY THERE !! missed the last one. dave.

The riding in that was amazing! probley your best vid

Do you have any advice on what components I should buy? As I am really new to the sport I honestly don't have a clue which components would feel nice together. I think I will stay with 26" wheels as thats what I am used to. Probably a short wheelbase bike with no suspension. What is everyones opinion on hope XC hubs as I have a pair of them laying around? Also I have heard of 24" bikes, I have not yet tried one but I have viewed a few videos from the Sites/Vids and Pics section. What do they feel like to ride? I imagine very flicky and the front end should pop up quite easily. Bob

Greetings, my name is Robert but most of my chums call me Bob, i am 24 years old and have been riding bikes for about 13 years. I find I never was really inspired by one particular rider, I've been riding bikes for years, when I started trials I already had alot of experiance on the bike through various other bike orientated disciplines. I really just went out one day with some of my friends and thought it would be a laugh to try to hop on the back wheel. After hours of trying we all finally made it. remember this was with a canti brake set up and xc rims/hubs. A few weeks later I found this forum. I had always known of Hans Ray, but i didn't realise what he did was so widespread across the UK. hopefully I will soon get a trials bike and take the sport to a serious level.

what is an anagram of zona? don't answer, I'll just tell you. ONZA!

I've been on here a long time, I just havn't bothered posting as I havn't found any interesting topics

Modified (20" wheels) Pros: Superb standover clearance Easily manueverable in most every circumstance, especially anything rear wheel Less expensive Less parts to break Nearly impossible to bend the rim of a well-built 19" rear mod wheel running enough tire pressure Learn to sidehop up to both sides without worrying about a rear derailleur Cons: Some people may think it's a BMX bike A pain to ride more than a mile or two on May be harder to find parts for it Harder to roll down things Easier to go over the handlebars (but less scary when you do) Doing wedge or wheelbase moves is less comfortable Stock (26" wheels) Pros: More stable Bigger wheels = roll everything easier Easier to do wedge or wheelbase moves Easier to pedal-kick on odd surfaces because of the larger diameter wheel You can ride to your riding spot easily (if you have a seat and working gears) Looks more like a mountain bike People won't ask you to "grind" stuff or think you do BMX vert or street Cons: Bigger bike = less standover clearance = pain if you fall on the bike Easy to hit knees on top-tube of most bikes Less room to work with for bending down before sidehopping, bunnyhopping, etc. or when absorbing landings More expensive because of greater frequency of breakage and more parts to break Rear derailleurs - easy to smash into things (though most bikes have replaceable derailleur hangers that will bend before the derailleur is broken) Wheels - 26" size = easier to get out of true or taco (20" wheels are extremely hard to ruin when built and used properly) Chain can slip down or up a gear while you ride if your chain is too loose, or you smack your derailleur in section and break it Heavier check it out

Read First The avid manual contains all the information needed, however some of the stuff isnt explained very well. Here is my attempt to explain it better and also add a few things I do which I think make the task alot easier. I hope it helps. Step 1 - Installing The Rotor Installing the rotor is a relatively simple and self explanatory task. The first step is to work out which way the needs to go. If you hold your wheel so the disk mounting holes are facing you, the oblong shaped holes should be diagonally up (like this forward slash /) at the top of the disk. Once you have worked out which way it needs to go insert one of the torx bolts through the hole into the disk into anyone of the holes in the hub and do it up 3 or so turns. Then do the same with the other 5 bolts making sure you only do each one up a few turns. Once they are all in tighten them down until they are little more then finger tight, then tighten up equally by constantly changing which bolt you are tightening until they are all done up to the recommended torque, 6.2 Nm. (with a normal sized torx key doing them up as tight as you reasonably should be fine). Step 2 – Fitting The Wheel Insert the wheel into the fork dropouts carefully, watch that new disk!, and do up the skewer as you normally would. Give the wheel a quick spin to check the disk clears everything without any troubles. Step 3 – Installing The Caliper The caliper should already be loosely attached to the adapter or mounting bracket. If it is not loosely attached loosen the bolts. Slide the caliper onto the disk and position it so the disk tab on the fork’s holes line up with the adaptor / mounting brackets holes. Do up the bolts to 9-10 Nm. DO NOT ATTACH THE CABLES YET, THE NEXT STEP IS MUCH EASIER IF THEY ARE UNATTACED. Step 4 – Aligning The Caliper This is the hardest step in setting up your avid disk brake. It is in the instructions provided with the brake but many people don’t understand / overlook the procedure for aligning the caliper. First turn the red knob until it makes the disk roughly 1/3 of the way across the gap from that knob. Then tighten down the other red knob as hard as possible. The disk should now be positioned slightly closer to the wheel side of the gap, with a rough gap ratio of 1:2 or 1/3 : 2/3. See the avid manual for a diagram. Once this is established tighten up the bolts that attach the caliper to the adaptor / mounting bracket and loosen both of the red knobs as far as they loosen. Step 5 – Install The Lever / Cable This is pretty obvious, simply pass the brake wire through the small hole at the top of the caliper and through the rubber boot and down underneath the Allen bolt. Tighten it up as tight as you can without moving the caliper arm. Then use the barrel adjuster on the lever to eliminate any play in the cable before it starts to pull on the caliper. Step 6 – Adjusting The Caliper The next step is to first tighten the red knob closest to the wheel as much as possible before it touches the disk. An easy way to do this is to turn it one “click” and then try to spin the wheel, see if any noise can be heard caused by the disk rubbing. Once noise is heard back the knob off one notch. Squeeze the brake lever, if it can be pulled all the way to the bar, or further then how you would like it to engage at, then simply turn the outside red knob a notch or two, then repeat the process. Step 7 – Break-In There are many different trains of thought for breaking in an avid disk brake. My recommendation is to ride around for a minute or so with the brake dragging, perform some “endo’s” etc. After a minute completely soak it in water and then repeat. Repeat this process 2-3 times and your avid should be perfect. Enjoy it. Manual Scans of the "Installation Guidelines": http://www.observedtrials.net/otn2/avidmanualpg1.jpg http://www.observedtrials.net/otn2/avidmanualpg2.jpg