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Bit Of Help Need Please!


Ross Clayton

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Hey dude, check this out

http://ponkan.quickshareit.com/share/wheel...ng_10147354.pdf

It basically involves finding the bump in the wheel, counting the amount of spokes it covers, say it's 5, you tighten the first spoke 1/4, second 1/2, third full, fourth 1/2 and fifth 1/4

I followed that guide up there, and managed to build my wheel okay.

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To build the wheel without the up-down out of trueness, back all the spoke nipples off until all the spokes are slack. Set each spoke nipple to the same point on the threads of each spoke (This assumes all the spokes connected to a given flange on the hub are the same length). A good starting point is to have the end of each spoke flush with the bottom of the slot for a screwdriver in the spoke nipples. If the spokes are too short for this, setting them so you can just see one spoke thread under each nipple is the other option. Line one pair of flats of each nipple with the braking surface of the rim (Leaving the spoke nipples like this makes it easier to count turns and also allows you to visually inspect your wheel for loosening spokes).

Then, starting at the valve hole, work around the wheel tightening each spoke by a turn or two (If they're really slack), moving down to half turns once any tension starts to appear. To set dish wait till the spokes have some tension, then only tighten the spoke to the flange on the side you want to move the rim to. The wheel should have excellent up/down and side to side trueness without any help if you follow this procedure (Assuming the rim is straight to start with).

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