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Hs33 Problems


deanie-b

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I'm now back into trials after a bit of a shoulder injury. A couple of days ago, i put a fresh grind on my rear (ronnie), and cleaned the pads up a bit too. But now the locking point is a bit too far away for my liking, even with the TPA wound all the way in. A friend said that if I rebled the system really well, I might have the cylinders pushing out further? It's something i'd not heard before, so though i'd ask here.

by the way, i'm skint, so I can't be buying new mounts or whatever :)

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do you mean bleeding the brake so that the cylinders stick further then normal, if so this is possible.

you will probably need a mates hand but if you get some plyers and pull out the mountings that the pads sit on and then bleed it then you end up with the brake being over bleed but you can get more distance with the magura.

i would only use that as a temp solution though, im not sure if it would put any stress on the magura or not?

is the rim to skinny for the frame?

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do you mean bleeding the brake so that the cylinders stick further then normal, if so this is possible.

you will probably need a mates hand but if you get some plyers and pull out the mountings that the pads sit on and then bleed it then you end up with the brake being over bleed but you can get more distance with the magura.

i would only use that as a temp solution though, im not sure if it would put any stress on the magura or not?

is the rim to skinny for the frame?

Im not sure if it is, it seems alright, the pads aren't that fat, but there's enough there.

It's a long echo lite by the way :)

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well i would give it a fresh bleed anyway, and see if that solves the problem.

as soon as you press the lever you should see instant movements at the cylinders, if not then there is probably air in the system and will need a bleed as i just said.

hope this helps

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well i would give it a fresh bleed anyway, and see if that solves the problem.

as soon as you press the lever you should see instant movements at the cylinders, if not then there is probably air in the system and will need a bleed as i just said.

hope this helps

Ta matey :)

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Have you tried adjusting the brake pistons closer to the rim where they're clamped to the frame? Sounds like the pads are a bit worn. Running the TPA wound in all the way tends to cause them to break earlier too and loads the guides for the brake pads on the pistons more than with the TPA wound out, so it's better for brake longevity to keep the TPA wound out as far as possible.

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Have you tried adjusting the brake pistons closer to the rim where they're clamped to the frame? Sounds like the pads are a bit worn. Running the TPA wound in all the way tends to cause them to break earlier too and loads the guides for the brake pads on the pistons more than with the TPA wound out, so it's better for brake longevity to keep the TPA wound out as far as possible.

Yeah :/, they are.

I was thinking about perhaps doubling up my pad backings so i can get the actual pads closer to the rim :mellow:

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You could try new brake pads - I'd be very slow to risk doubling the backings, especially if it's a back brake as this is a recipe for very nasty crashes if it fails. I remember someone mentioned Magura mounts being available with more offset than standard, but I think they were 4 bolt rather than Evo mounts.

Probably the ideal solution is to get a wider rim, but failing that new brake pads is a much cheaper option. Here's what I use: http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/index.php?cPath=22_35 - on a harsh grind they get eaten quite quickly (They last around 2 months in the back brake, riding 4 or 5 days a week). The red pads have slightly better hold, while the green ones happen to match my bike better (The black ones are almost certainly the nasty ones that come as standard in Maguras and are not to be trusted for trials)...

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You could try new brake pads - I'd be very slow to risk doubling the backings, especially if it's a back brake as this is a recipe for very nasty crashes if it fails. I remember someone mentioned Magura mounts being available with more offset than standard, but I think they were 4 bolt rather than Evo mounts.

Probably the ideal solution is to get a wider rim, but failing that new brake pads is a much cheaper option. Here's what I use: http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/index.php?cPath=22_35 - on a harsh grind they get eaten quite quickly (They last around 2 months in the back brake, riding 4 or 5 days a week). The red pads have slightly better hold, while the green ones happen to match my bike better (The black ones are almost certainly the nasty ones that come as standard in Maguras and are not to be trusted for trials)...

it's okay, i sorted a decent way of getting my pads closer to the rim, the frame's 'legs' weren't sitting that straight on the hub, because the snail cams were pushing them out 3mm on each side, so i've removed the cams and put 'em on the outside of the dropout, therefore gaining 3mm each side :)

I've been wondering about those pads for quite a while, you don't happen to know what they're like ok a lightish/medium grind do you?

ta, Dean

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You could try new brake pads - I'd be very slow to risk doubling the backings, especially if it's a back brake as this is a recipe for very nasty crashes if it fails.

You ever done the pad bodge? You seem to dismiss lots of ideas when you actually know f**k all about them.

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I ran doubled up backings years ago when I was running a D521 in the back of my Echo Pure. Worked fine and never had any problems with it, and never heard of any others having problems. Obviously its not the greatest or most perminent fix in the world, but as a tempory solution until you can get new pads or a wider rim.

All you need to do is get some old pads and get the material off. Then screw the backing onto the back of your existing pads, with one screw either side. Make sure you get some screws that arent too long, otherwise as the pad material wears down, you may end up with the tip of the screw extruding the surface.

Theres some pics floating around here somewhere, I will have a browse round my pc when I get home for you if you like.

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Anything that puts extra bending loads on the brake pads is an inherently bad idea. I won't deny it'll work, or be reasonably safe (Find details from someone who's used it without problems and copy their setup exactly), but when I had the same problem D521 in Echo 4 bolt frame. I looked at doing that, but quickly decided buying a new rim was a safer choice (Less chance of the pads failing - you're depending on screws threaded into plastic to support you landing gaps, which isn't a great confidence booster). For the £5.99 they cost, it's worth trying the red pads first - they're shorter than standard Magura pads (More pressure between the pad and the braking surface) and bite and hold very well. they are extremely loud though. My grind is pretty harsh I reckon and they hold very well, haven't tried those pads on any other grind. I fitted a brake booster to my bike, which quietened them slightly, didn't seem to affect power and left the brake feeling fantastic at the lever...

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Here's a pic of the bodged pad trick.

post-17283-1217356510_thumb.jpg

I ran this for about two or three weeks while I was waiting for my Echo rim. ( Had been running a D521 on my Echo Pure). I didn't bother me using this for a while as I can't exactly do gaps and such yet. But still, a psycholist says, you are better getting a wider rim. (Y)

Edited by I-LikeMatchesDerFun
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