greenmeansgo Posted September 2, 2008 Report Share Posted September 2, 2008 I've just put a bmx chain on my bike to complete a single speed set up, and I want to use my rear mech to tension the chain. Chain is a KMC Kool 710, and the rear mech is Shimano STX. All very nice, the chain line is ok, but the master link won't run through the mech. I've bent the cage out a bit around the jockey wheels by removing the jockey wheels then using pliers, but the section between the two jockey wheels is a right git to bend and this is where it still catches.Has anyone already successfully done what I'm trying to do? Any tips on how to do this without breaking things would be great.PS: I've already tried to just "man up" and do it, so any other suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonMack Posted September 2, 2008 Report Share Posted September 2, 2008 (edited) Take the bolts out that hold the jockey wheels in and place a washer on each side of the wheel, screw it back together and it will work, if it doesn't, use more washers. Edited September 2, 2008 by Mark King Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenmeansgo Posted September 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2008 Thanks - I'll give that a go (there's not much thread to play with on those bolts, but probably just enough)*feels like an idiot for not thinking of this obvious solution before posting* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonMack Posted September 2, 2008 Report Share Posted September 2, 2008 You're not the only one that's ever wanted to fit a thick chain through a mech, so don't worry you should be okay with regards to thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted September 2, 2008 Report Share Posted September 2, 2008 Can always use a longer bolt too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie East Posted September 2, 2008 Report Share Posted September 2, 2008 I've also got a kmc 710 on a rear mech. As said already, you could put washers either side of the jockey wheel, but however i just removed one of the cages, then used a bolt to tighten it up. Seems fine, nothing has bent yet, and it saves some weight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revolver Posted September 2, 2008 Report Share Posted September 2, 2008 Master link as in the split link?You could take that link out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenmeansgo Posted September 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2008 I've also got a kmc 710 on a rear mech. As said already, you could put washers either side of the jockey wheel, but however i just removed one of the cages, then used a bolt to tighten it up. Seems fine, nothing has bent yet, and it saves some weight!Genius. Master link as in the split link?You could take that link out.Yeah, probably also called that. I mean the link that comes separate to the chain when you buy it. It has one outer link plate with two pins, one outer plate that slides over the other end of those two pins and a clip that holds the second plate to the pins. Isn't this link supposed to be a stronger way to make the chain than pushing a normal pin out and back in again with a chain tool? I'd rather use that link and modify the rear mech I think.Anyway, thanks to everyone for the help and ideas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cai Posted September 2, 2008 Report Share Posted September 2, 2008 Isn't this link supposed to be a stronger way to make the chain than pushing a normal pin out and back in again with a chain tool? Its weaker! As the 'split-link' has thinner shaped plates, so more prone to snapping...After all, a chains only as strong as its weakest link - so I'd just push the pin back through Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenmeansgo Posted September 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2008 Its weaker! As the 'split-link' has thinner shaped plates, so more prone to snapping...After all, a chains only as strong as its weakest link - so I'd just push the pin back through Hmm. I definitely agree with your logic, but I'm sure I read something by Sheldon Brown along the lines of pushing the pin out and back in weakens the join because it's no longer as tight a fit as it was from the factory. And so you should use the split-link that comes with the chain (at least that's how I remember it). I also thought the thinking behind them was for people who like to remove their chain regularly to clean it, so they don't have to break links all the time (I don't come under this category).Other thing is I've shortened the chain to get good tension, so if I wanted to use a standard link and push the pin back, I'd have to either shorten the chain by one link (doubt I'll get away with that), or replace the split-link with a standard link (which means the chain will contain two pins that have been pushed out and back in again, which is surely worse than only containing one). So what's the consensus on split-link strength/ what I should do? Confused now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenmeansgo Posted September 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 Washers did the job, cheers Now what's the deal with the special split-link? To use or not to use? Advice/ wisdom would be gratefully received! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted September 3, 2008 Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 Get it out, they are weaker than the rest of the chain, and always break. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Scarlet Posted September 3, 2008 Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 Now what's the deal with the special split-link? To use or not to use? Advice/ wisdom would be gratefully received!Would that being a joining link that snaps in place rather than the standard one with a circlip?I found no master link is the way to go, when I used the one with the clip it managed to fall off my chain (which is a nice thought to be riding around with a link that can fall out at anytime).And snap links where you have a plate with 2 holes and a plate with 2 pins on I have found to be just as bad, having snapped some myself (and I'm not exactly a beast of a rider), I don't like this idea as due to the design it is the link in the chain that gets the most stress.Just rejoin the chain and you should be fine. =D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenmeansgo Posted September 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 Ok cheers, the consensus has convinced me to ditch the master/split-link that came with the chain, and just join it the old school way.Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben John-Hynes Posted September 4, 2008 Report Share Posted September 4, 2008 Take one side of the cage of the mech off, and whack a nylon nut on the end of the bolt.Saves weight too(not that you're worried about weight as you're using a mech ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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