FamilyBiker Posted November 28, 2013 Report Share Posted November 28, 2013 (edited) i have a little problem where my theorethical knowledge about bicycles reached its limit,as i just cant explain it to myself. sometimes riding feels completely different to the setup you figured out to be making sense on my bike i am running a syntace stem with 120x20 atm,myreach is at 655mm,and due to wrist problems i have to use street handlebars aligned to the head tube angle,my wrists just cant take any upsweep over the horizontal. rode during the whole year with that setup,everything was awesome,only my riding style got a bit more backwheel related now. while the bike is great for street its a little bit uncomfortable on the rear wheel,and its not the geo,cs,bb and reach are in trials terrain. so its possible to get more trials out of my geo(was the plan when it was designed though),but i can only find stems with 25-40 degrees rise,which leads me to the first question: do long steep stems feel more roomy to ride,despite the fact theyre only higher seen in a sidewiew of the bike?doesnt it change the whole way you´d have to stand on the bike? a 150x30 is pretty much the same horizontal reach,but higher: as you see,just the height has changed,but the horizontal reach hasnt. does that feel longer on the rear wheel? second question is directly related,did anyone change from low stem to high stem and can tell me about the difference? a procraft 130x17 would stretch my reach a bit without changing the height,experiences with that kind of stem,opinions on the geo? winters time,means all my effort is going into next years setup,so i want to figure that out until the weather gets better,and i dont want to buy 3+stems to achieve this... never rode mod stems or such,so kinda need help with how they´d feel like advice would be much aprechiated guys´n girls thanks in advance peter Edited November 28, 2013 by FamilyBiker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorkshire Dale Posted November 29, 2013 Report Share Posted November 29, 2013 go long and low. remove spacers n stuff, will sit better on rear wheel then. best way to do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FamilyBiker Posted November 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2013 do i look comfortable on the rear wheel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TriаlsRider Posted November 29, 2013 Report Share Posted November 29, 2013 I don't see any problems except of snowless and too warm winter in this video Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FamilyBiker Posted November 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2013 (edited) I don't see any problems except of snowless and too warm winter in this video it just melted away today,we have 0 deg here exactly and i see massive problems:i am totally out of shape,way too much eating,way too less riding the last weeks Edited November 29, 2013 by FamilyBiker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FamilyBiker Posted November 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2013 cmon people,there was a discussion about if cat sh*t can look like human sh*t,and it had 3 pages or so. noone got any advice or experiences for me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharn Posted November 30, 2013 Report Share Posted November 30, 2013 I'd be tempted to run the bar forward just a *tad*. Once the bike is up on the rear wheel a 'rise' in a bar starts to come back at you, looks slightly like this is pushing your lower arms back into you when it's on it's r. wheel and might cause a (very) slight bit of a timing issue when 'lungeing' forward, especially on the bigger efforts. Almost like your causing the bike to move forward with your thigh/ middle weight before you've completed the pedal stroke. It's a small observation and it's not overly obvious here but looking at you gap the steps at the end i felt it could be a slight area of interest if youre trying to really dial the thing. It may not feel like this at all or you might understand what i mean? Personally if youre looking to get better rear wheel action i'd be tempted to drop the bar height up to 10mm aswell as tilt the bars ( A tad is a technical measurement beyond comprehension ). I'm talking just like a degree or so. Think the higher the bars when the bike is on two wheels, the closer the bars are to you when it's on the back wheel (Or should i say theyre 'trying' to be closer to you) - giving you less room and making it feel more of a rush to kind of avoid the uncomfortableness. Maybe try bringing the levers up a touch too, the further down they are the more thats pulling you round and over the front while youre up on back end, and when gaping you want to try get below and behind the bars so you can get back more to exhert more effort forward. (Hope that makes some sense!?) E.g if the tip of your finger is trying to stay wrapped on the lever, the further round the bar the less your'e able to get down and behind it when pre-loading. Hope some of that makes sense. This is all obviously theoretical but you wanted a long winded response did you not (A) It's like anything when you move away from one thing you move towards another. The direction of these changes might make bunnyhops and nose pivots get slightly harder the more extreme you go with it. so i'd say just go that way in smidges first (more technical lingo). Remember to adjust your levers with it too! (Sorry if any of this sounds patronising - it's really not intended to!) Sometimes people take this kind of advice and move everything 20mm here and 5 degrees there all at once. Don't do it like this I'm talking frACTIONS. Again sorry if i'm sounding like a 'know it all' (i really really don't!) I know you've been riding for years and years just thought i'd give you my observations/experiences by the way, Did you used to have a white BT Raven?? Anyway, all the best with it bro. Alhamdulillah. Salaaam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FamilyBiker Posted November 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2013 (edited) no,no that was an awesome response,did mention a few things i already tried though.so first big thanks you took the time for that post! for the bars rolling thing,i tried bar angles from tgs´ish "along the stem" to where it is now,first angles killed my right wrists discus mediocarpalis,which is basically the shock absorber in human wrists(will never fully heal again),tried and tried and came out at "along the headtube". as for the brake levers,its the same,i already did that adjustment through trial´n error,so those two are pretty fixed values unfortunately.surprisingly i got no problems reaching the levers in almost "pointing straight down" position,sometimes it helps though because it kind of forces me to keep my wrists in a good position to the bars. and as you said,2 degrees of bar angle can change much(provoke or prevent pain in my case) i pretty much have to find a stem that feels a tad more trialsy with my bars aligned this way,i know thats not easy. last resort would be lowish bars or flat bars and a long,steep(ish) stem(oldskool),as i could adjust the sweep without changig the position at all,seems like a big advantage of flat bars. i never had any other than marino frames when it comes to trials,i only ever rode dirt/street bikes before i started trials riding. btw did you ride flat bars anytime?if so,how do they feel? thanks again for the detailed reply Edited November 30, 2013 by FamilyBiker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharn Posted November 30, 2013 Report Share Posted November 30, 2013 go long and low. remove spacers n stuff, will sit better on rear wheel then. best way to do it To condense my last reply a little... ''+1'' 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FamilyBiker Posted November 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2013 To condense my last reply a little... ''+1'' have to find a compromise then,too low and i got too much weight on my wrists,have to be able to move with my bike,spothoppingwise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharn Posted November 30, 2013 Report Share Posted November 30, 2013 btw did you ride flat bars anytime?if so,how do they feel? thanks again for the detailed reply No problem. I've run thehorrible old school flats that have that awful upsweep. i tend to go with Risers. I actually run Ns District bars on both my Leeson and my Pashley and intend to run the on my Base when it's built up too. Inshaallah. I just get on with them very well and i like Steel bars cos i just go *so* big.. Ahem. Nah theyv'e got that bit more bounce in em so it's quite nice on a rigid street bike. They newer style flats that are like a shallow riser seem nice - always liked the monty style risers myself though never ran them. I agree, it the upsweep thats always the crucial bit for me. Generally been running Districts for years now. i do like them. Glad you appreciated that, thought i'd contribute. Seems you've understood it all already. Basically i agree with Yorkshire dale. long n low for spending time on the back wheel then set your favourite swept bar up in the sweet spot! If you get wrist ache- grip thickness is always something to consider!. Get that just right for the size of you hand grasp too! Lever reach etc. (again sorry to state the obvious!) Please understand though i'm sat here responding because i'm not out riding. Which says alot All the best man. PeAce! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharn Posted November 30, 2013 Report Share Posted November 30, 2013 have to find a compromise then,too low and i got too much weight on my wrists,have to be able to move with my bike,spothoppingwise Check out a grip like ODI Longneck. Got a nice squishey mushroom style ribbed thing going on and are a little thicker than most. Might help with the pressure issue.. Again, I'm not sying go droppin it 30mm. Just like 10mm dropped, 'slight' forward tilt on bars (maybe) and make sure levers arent tooo far down. And check you grips.. I'm one for the ODI's. Also big steel risers have naturally got that bit more forgiveness in em. You should notice an extra bit of flex just from that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FamilyBiker Posted November 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2013 basically what this topic was aimed at,a stem setup that lets me keep my bars and their position,but making it all a tad trialsier. i use griptape since years now,that stuff is awesome,i wrap certain areas of my bars with that oldskool-griptape first,then a layer of corktape,pretty ergonomic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezmtber Posted December 1, 2013 Report Share Posted December 1, 2013 Just change you r current short steep stem for a long low stem. Then if you don't like it you haven't cut the steerer and can go back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorkshire Dale Posted December 1, 2013 Report Share Posted December 1, 2013 To condense my last reply a little... ''+1'' cheers sharn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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