Guest hiphopuk Posted April 21, 2003 Report Share Posted April 21, 2003 So many posts about this lately, so I thought I would set the record straight. There are two routes to go if you wish to convert your Stock bike to singlespeed... 1. If you wish to keep your standard rear hub, e.g. Hope XC or CK, you need to take your current cassette apart, choose the cog you wish to use (usually 17-19t with a 22t at the front), and use cassette spacers (the plastic parts which seperate cogs in the cassette, surprisingly enough!) or a dedicated singlespeed spacer, such as the 24/7 or Gusset kit. All you need to do is position the cog in between the spacers (in the middle of the freehub body is usually fine for the chainline, but you can adjust the spacers if you need to), do up the locknut as you would with a cassette, and you're done! (You can purchase seperate singlespeed cogs if you wish, or get them with 24/7 or Gusset kits - the Shimano DX is a popular choice). The next step is how to achieve chain tension. Some people choose to use a rear mech - this is perfectly fine, you do not need to splash out on any special equipment and it is simple to set up. Simply shorten the chain as much as you can in the mech, and position the rear mech so that the chain runs smoothly. Cutting a gear cable, feeding it into the rear mech so that the noodle (bit that usually goes into the shifter) is flush against the back of the mech, and tightening the bolt is a good way of keeping it in position. Another option is to purchase a singlespeed tensioner. There are three that I know of to choose from - The DMR Tension Seeker, the Surly Singleator, and the Rohloff device. In my experience, the Singleator is a great device, but the spring inside is simply not strong enough. The tension needed in trials is simply too much for this device. The DMR is very good at keeping tension, but you do have to be a little careful with it - the spring itself doesn't take kindly to being hit. I have snapped one, but I have found a V Brake spring is a perfect bodge. The Rohloff I have never used personally, but they come very highly recommended. The first thing to do with the Surly and DMR (not sure about the Rohloff, any input?) is to shorten the chain as much as you possibly can WITHOUT the device bolted on. Put the chain on the chainring and the freewheel/cog, and take out as many links as you can. Then put the device on as per the instructions. 2. The "Hardcore" ( :- ) option is to go dedicated singlespeed - i.e. go and buy a screw on freewheel hub and a BMX freewheel. There are more options than you think, but in my opinion you can't go wrong with the DMR Revolver rear hub. It has sealed cartridge bearings, bolts instead of a skewer so it's super stiff, builds into a dishless wheel and is plenty light and strong. As I said, there are other options, but the DMR is cheap and you never really need to touch it. As for freewheels... There is only one choice at the moment. The ACS Claw freewheel comes in 14-18t, has 36 engagement points, and is certainly the most reliable freewheel I have ever used. DO NOT get a Shimano, Dicta or anything else for trials. ACS freewheels are the only choice, and you can pick them up for £16. The perfect freewheel (in theory) is the White Industies ENO... Sealed bearings, 36 engagement points on 4 pawls. When these become available in the UK I'm sure they will be perfect. As for chain tension, it is EXACTLY the same as if you were using a cog... So see above! Pros and cons? Well, with 1. if you ever need to go back to gears (I'm converted forever... no chance!) then you will have no problems. With 2. you will need a new hub, cassette etc... Other than the fact getting places is an arse (car...), dedicated singlespeed is the way forward if you aren't a comp rider. It's far lighter, far more reliable, and cheaper in the longrun. I don't wish to cause any debates or arguments. All the facts here are tested, by myself, and any queries I will happily answer. Hope it's all helpful... And welcome to the converted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest thetart20 Posted April 21, 2003 Report Share Posted April 21, 2003 *grabs a £2.99 off-the-market 'real leather' handbag...* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest prawn Posted April 21, 2003 Report Share Posted April 21, 2003 well said, lets hope everyone else agrees, ive gon to single spee this week and i really love it, its great, i still think the best option is to keep ur normal hub if it works, ive got no complaints with my chris king disc and gusset spacers (wen i get my hub back with a new axle that is) single speed, light, strong, and gd old chris king with 72 engagments, so im happy, single speed has to be the wat forwards, and dont go on about u cant because of comps, it takes less than 5 mins literally to whack the mech and cassette on again so go single speed its great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest EcHoTrOn Posted April 21, 2003 Report Share Posted April 21, 2003 what tensioner did thetart have on his bike in the bike pics section? and how much does it cost and how much does a gusset spacer kit cost. where? ta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest thetart20 Posted April 21, 2003 Report Share Posted April 21, 2003 http://www.forge-mtb.com Forge Single Finger chain tensioner (with V brake spring bodge to actually make it work), plus 18T DX Sprocket and Forge SS Spacers - £37 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Onzaboymark Posted April 21, 2003 Report Share Posted April 21, 2003 I'd just like to say that actually, Shimano freewheels are great. Mine lasted for a year and a half...however, ACS Claws are damn fine. Also, you can pick up ACS Claws for £10 from http://www.supercycles.co.uk or http://www.customriders.co.uk Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DMRider_10 Posted April 22, 2003 Report Share Posted April 22, 2003 shimano freewheels might last while your starting out, but for serios trials, get the claw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KrazyK|D Posted April 22, 2003 Report Share Posted April 22, 2003 a single cog might dig into your freehub body... the force is distributed on a smaller surface than a whole casette,so the pressure applied on the freehub body is bigger...resulting in a shorter life expectancy ...just wanted u to know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest thetart20 Posted April 22, 2003 Report Share Posted April 22, 2003 a single cog might dig into your freehub body... This is true - but dont worry, it'll never go all the way through (unless you have an alloy freehub body) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DMRider_10 Posted April 22, 2003 Report Share Posted April 22, 2003 try and use the spacers with the bolt holes and bolt the thing together, spread the force a little Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest thechink Posted April 23, 2003 Report Share Posted April 23, 2003 n1 :- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest prawn Posted April 24, 2003 Report Share Posted April 24, 2003 ive just gona single speed thsi week and its great i did have to bodge my tension seeker slightly though to allow it to rech in far enuf to line up with my gusset spacers the bodge (usign a v brake pad washer) nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest muskokatrials Posted April 28, 2003 Report Share Posted April 28, 2003 what about a chris king single speed hub? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest hiphopuk Posted April 29, 2003 Report Share Posted April 29, 2003 I emailed Webcyclery about the King Single Speed cassette hub, and they said it is only available with an alloy drive shell, and basically would not be as strong as a Classic/ISO with steel and trials internals. If they made the Single Speed available with the trials bits and steel driveshell... I can only imagine... :- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tank_rider Posted April 30, 2003 Report Share Posted April 30, 2003 (edited) for people worrying about their cog eating through your freehub, you can always get a kingkog, mounted on a small cassette carrier as it has a larger contact area, they are £35 though, whereas a dx cog is abt £6 tops!! thought id put it in here (even if it has been in other threads) so it wont keep coming up. :- Edited May 1, 2003 by Lufbra Trials Crew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest thetart20 Posted May 1, 2003 Report Share Posted May 1, 2003 We already had this in another thread, hehe, and i think it was decided a DX for £3 was good enough :- Mine hasnt dug in at all anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dave33 Posted May 9, 2003 Report Share Posted May 9, 2003 for people worrying about their cog eating through your freehub, you can always get a kingkog, mounted on a small cassette carrier as it has a larger contact area, they are £35 though, whereas a dx cog is abt £6 tops!! thought id put it in here (even if it has been in other threads) so it wont keep coming up. :D you can get them for £25 :- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest EcHoTrOn Posted May 12, 2003 Report Share Posted May 12, 2003 does a ss cog dig in more than a standard cassette in one gear? mine hasnt done anything yet but might. would having the lock nut real tight help? are there any quik fixes to make it not happne? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tomm® Posted May 12, 2003 Report Share Posted May 12, 2003 does a ss cog dig in more than a standard cassette in one gear? Yeah, but its not really anything to worry about - you'll never go all the way through would having the lock nut real tight help? Not in the slightest, and it'll be a b*****d to get off :- are there any quik fixes to make it not happen? Use a King Kog (slightly wider base so the force is distributed over a larger area). Other than that - not that i know of :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Class Team Trials Posted May 12, 2003 Report Share Posted May 12, 2003 is the DMR tensioner better then the surly, as the surly seems to bend the hanger because of th epin sticking outwards, if that makes any sense :- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Janson Posted May 23, 2003 Report Share Posted May 23, 2003 i run SS on my ilions.. its legal in swedish comps so i can comp with the SS too! i got some casette spacers from the LBS for cheap. took the cog i wanted (21t) and bolted it together with almost all the spacers (use standard casette screws). i have an alu freehub body so i need to do this. i use loose spacers to fill it up, incase i had to alter the chainline.. its perfectly straight, with a home made singulator.. works well good, but planning of making a singulator which is a bit stronger with a spring mechanism.. why buy when you can make one? :- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haz Posted June 1, 2003 Report Share Posted June 1, 2003 im with you there, im just wondering about going singlespeed. all the decent riding spots are 3 miles away sure i can ride that far, its just the low gear for trials will annoy me going any distance. do any of you find going distances is a nucance or can you cope? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest hiphopuk Posted June 2, 2003 Report Share Posted June 2, 2003 I'm super lazy and usually drive. Most the riding spots where I live are only 1 mile away... But I still drive. :- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haz Posted June 3, 2003 Report Share Posted June 3, 2003 im 14 something tells me driving is out of the question! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yarkorider Posted July 12, 2003 Report Share Posted July 12, 2003 Forge Single Finger chain tensioner (with V brake spring bodge to actually make it work), plus 18T DX Sprocket and Forge SS Spacers - £37 sorry i dont know how u worked that out, al i can is this which is for £39. can u tell me where i can get the dx cog cheapest, cos i cant seem to find it for a mtb. so the cog doesnt dig in using the shimano dx, do u really need those ss sleeves then? wat they shud to is make them with the teeth bit to attach to the freewheel and then bolt althe way through the cog so then there wont be any damage...less pressure and stuff. anway fanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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