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Hope Mono Trials, Disabelmed


Wright Pads

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Okay so i'd finaly gotten my Hope Mono Trials off Kirean Whittifiled about 2 months on from paying for it!

It was foobard from looking at tut box!

Anyway i stripped her down and though i'd show you all the gubbings, as some may wander whats what or what goes into them or how they work! As you'll not it's all nice and clean. I clean stuff before i strip it then a full clean there after! Hate mess.

1 Mono caliper. This what give the brake it's name! Extreamly light oddly! That rasied ridged section is the main load and stress bearing part to holding the claiper togther!

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The pistons! Now this is an odd one! Some have these, some have phelonic (sp). It's a cardbord, cermaic, resin type stuff, hard as nails, can flex if you want it too but doesn't conduct heat! I'm upgrading the ones in this unit to the phelonic ones! Oh and check the ''close up''. All the problems you've hered about the mono trials leaking, stick is there! That black line is due to the seals melting/sticking to the pistons! Newer seals stoped this as they changed material, but with piston upgrade problem solved as well! They also have a magent in each to hold onto the pad like the old C2's did/do.

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IPB Image

Seals them self, they sit inside the caliper in a tiny ridge just 1.5mm in from the innder edge. Keeps the fuild in and crap out! Again the newer versions are better!

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Bore cap! No spechal tool needed really, just some workshop engintuty (sp). Seal the side off where the pistons go! Can have colors and a carbon fiber one! CF is aftermaket which Hope don't agree with due to DOT and some epoxy reacting!

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Pads, big pads, nothing like what hope had done before in a single claiper until lthe M6Ti, very few after market but EBC are the ones that make the backings which is called the shoe for everyone!! Pads are made by Ferodo not Hope but branded as Hope!

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Lastly but not least. Pad retiaing pin, buggaded once lost, safty pin is a good bodge to hold that pin in or to hold the pads in if that pin is lost! Also the bleed screw. 1/4 tun to open or close.

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Had to re-thread the frame mounts as they were cross threaded and off angle.

I'm having something spechail done to this unit anyway so i had to strip it!

Oh to pop the inner piston out, you need to pump the system so it pops. Or use a pump and compressed air! Waring DOT fuild and compresed air under presure, 90psi in this case will kill you. it turns into some nasty gas! A damp rag wrapped all over the claiper is advised during this process!

Will post pics once i get the unit back form it's sexy little set of mods!

Pete

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