xris_x

where do i get the mag ti, it might be cheaper than going the mag V12 and ti way. Also how do they perform in comparison?

I was having a look at what parts Halfords sells and noticed that they sell ti V12 axles for £35, now can that be right or a mistake on the system, they retail at £50 Gonna check it out tomorrow for sure and get em on order if thats right and for a pair. Anyone had bad experiences with ti axles? I'm planning on getting some mag V12 too, combined with ti axles they will be the lightest pedals i know of, lighter than Monty ones I think.

^ Nope, all completely wrong. Creepy Crawlers have a grippier compound, which is FACT. I remember being told of some UCI world champs, where the Monty riders on their Creepy Crawlers were gripping on the wet rocks better than the Koxx riders who had Try-Alls. In practice, I know for sure that Creepy Crawlers are a tad grippier than Try-All. But, try-all are extremely grippy still. Other than that, whoever said Creepy Crawlers last ages is talking out of their backside . They are notorious for pinch punctures and wearing out faster than most tyres. However the grip and bounce of Creepys is so great. Try-All has stiffer sidewalls meaning more pinch resistant and is also extremely bouncy. It's up to you really. if you can afford it, go for Try-All. If not, Maxxis is the best value for money option. OR: Consider this option: The Monty Eagle Claw: in short, these are like Creepy Crawlers and even though they are stated as 20x.2.6 they are actually the same width as Creepy Crawlers in real life, which is a good thing. They have similar grip and are the bounciest tyres (as proven by one of the best trials unicyclists in the world who's used virtually every single mod tyre that's ever existed). The pinch resistant is incredible too, just ask Andrew Chai about how much more he prefers Eagle Claws over Creepy Crawlers! So yeah, Eagle Claws are in short: better Creepy Crawlers. Lastly, don't even consider the Echo tyre. It is very dull feeling in comparison to other tyres due to the extra thick sidewalls and general construction. Some people absolutely adore it, but for riders who are still learning it is not too great a tyre because only very good riders seem to be able to get the most out of Echo tyres (low pressure, but extreme risk of rimming out). They are exactly the same as the Onza Sticky Fingers tyres if you look at them together (no, seriously they are except for the centre colour of Onza tyres). I'd say go for the Eagle Claw. If you can't afford it, then Creepy Crawler for sure.

Melon J20 with double shot of vodka, the most refreshing alcholic drink i have ever had. But be prepared for some fruity looks from the ba staff

Hey there, You will need 4-bolt clamps. The Echo Lite forks with rear-mounted brake mounts are for Magura brakes. You would only use EVO 2 mounts if you buy the Echo Lite forks with the 2 studs sticking out at the front. Hope it's clear to you Chris

Ned, people are like this sometimes. If anyone mentions anything positive about Craig Lee Scott, then the 'sheep crowd' will immediately swoop down and berate them and call them 'CLS Bummers'... how ignorant and assumptious. But the statement about 26" being about to go bigger than 20" is wrong. Both can go similar heights and lengths for each move, it's just that one is easier for a certain move whilst the other is easier at another... Take sidehops for example, mods are easier to sidehop, yet stocks are easier to tap. But both still get similar heights. I agree 26" is becoming more popular, and a lot of the 'go big' riders are 90% stock riders. But still, mod riders can still go big and have very good control too. Benito Ros, Craig Lee Scott, Sam Wheeler, Andrew Chai, TRA... they all go pretty big on mods.

Hi there, I'm afraid you've been sucked into his trap. I have spoken to a friend of mine, and he has told me that Gaz sold these Zoo forks to 6 or so different people. Martin Grainger was one of them I *think*. Anyway, you should find the Gaz M thread started by Martin Grainger in Trials Chat, and read about it. See what Martin is going to do about Gaz and take similar action. Now I personally don't know Gaz, but from what many people tell me, and the general way he 'speaks' on trials-forum, he's not the most trustworthy of guys out there. Best option is to try and get his home address and home number off someone who knows him. Then at least you can call the police if necessary to get your money back. If what people say is true about him 'selling' this Zoo fork to 6 different people, then he is in serious trouble. I hope things go your way! Chris

It is worth going ISIS if you have the chance. But make sure to buy a quality ISIS bottom bracket to go with the cranks. The forged Echo cranks tend to have delicate threads and the ISIS splines inside can round if not taken care of. I would recommend a bottom bracket like the SKF ones, I wouldn't go for a cheap ISIS bottom bracket because they normally have poor quality bearings which fail quickly. As for pedals, I wouldn't go for Onza Shin Digs. Here are two great choices: 1. Onza/Echo VP caged pedals- extremely popular amongst riders, great grip but can bend the cages if you land on the pedal too hard too often. Great value for money though. 2. Animal Hamilton pedals- unsealed versions cost £30 or so, and are extremely strong and grippy BMX pedals. Available from alansbmx.com DMRs can be good, the V8s tend to be a bit fragile when it comes to their bearings and often develop play. The V12s however are extremely grippy and strong, and for good reason! However, if you opt for ISIS cranks and BB, then follow these steps: 1. Apply copper grease to the bottom bracket and crank splines before installing 2. use copper grease for pedal threads on the cranks as well. 3. apply copper grease onto the large freewheel/cog thread of the crankarm ^It is important to use copper grease, so as to stop things seizing together.

It is worth getting an Adamant A3 instead of an Echo Lite if you really have to choose between the two. The A3 is made from Ultra 6 alloy, which has a higher ultimate tensile strength than the 6061 T6 that the Echo Lite is made of, therefore the A3 is bound to last longer. The extra length of a long A3 over the Echo Lite (which in itself is very short), will have advantages, such as leverage for gaps and so on. The Lite would probably bunnyhop better than the long A3 due to its shorter wheelbase. However, both are good frames, with the Adamant being only £80 or so more expensive. The A3 also features the in-built brake booster so that's another plus over the Lite meaning that buying a seperate brake booster isn't as necessary. Hope this helped. Chris

I accept it’s a light weight frame but perhaps they compromised in the wrong areas, everyone is having trouble with the down tube on this thing, you don’t make the chain stays out of cans since they get smashed up in side hops, same with down tubes, right. But as far as comp bikes are concerned, yeah this baby rides well and yes I will be getting the limey2 when this frame goes. I just wish they would iron out the kinks before selling it for so much money, it’s not exactly a budget bike. If your gonna do, do it right.

I ride and love the limey, its sooo long it makes it sickly easy on the back wheel. I'm just waiting on a 75mm stem (from 100mm) to see if it will help the front wheel come up a little easier and faster without making it difficult to handle. My little rant is about the design of the bike, the geometry is almost perfect but why did they make the downtube out of kitchen foil? I have a downtube protector that softens the blows but when I took it off to clean the bike I found the tube has loads of deep dents. BUT I HAVE NEVER HIT IT HARD! When I pressed on the tube with my thumbs I managed to flex the tubing just like crushing a coke can. This cant be right. Secondly the rear end of this frame flexes like mad and I cant help but put some of the blame down to the use of cross country dropouts being used. There soo tall and designed for seat tubes that are about 18" long not 6". Plus those disk mounts, anyone out there who would trust them for trials, no, anybody? The limey2 should be a big improvement, but come on, get rid of those xc dropouts and let us use some disks.

I was standing by some benches some weeks back chatting to my friends drinking a pint with my bike by my side when a cop comes up to me. Police officer "its against the law to ride your bike on the pavement" Me "I'm not" Police officer " I’m just telling you so you know" Me "urgh" And he walks away, had he turned around he would have seen my friend on a mod clearing a rail gap The moral of the story is, cops are filth.

When I was starting out I slipped of a low wall, about a foot high, and put my foot down. Lets just say that my foot folded over far enough for my ankle to press on the ground while I was fully upright. Painful but not the worst I’ve had. My ankle was the size of a tennis ball for the next 6 months. The pic here is once the bruising had gone down, you can still see the swelling. And yes I know this is not a winner, 1.5l of internal bleeding must count for something.

I'm on the market for a new front disk wheel since my £4 halfords one is very buckled and heavy. I mainly ride street but aint to heavy on the bike, so i was looking at the V!Z disk hubs, there cheap at £45 but i've heard the bearings get crushed easily, at 130g i'm not supprised but is it a sacrafice worth making, how much are bearings for them. The other hubs i've considered are monty disk, whtch at £55 is not too bad and still light but where's the colour? Hope Pro2's are nice but heavy when you include the skewer weight. All the other echo/zoo/czar are heavy'ish. Someone tell me, is the V!Z worth it or is there an alternative, What do you guys use....I'm going nuts

Yay, another 6 footer, where abouts in surrey you from, there is a small gorup of us who ride in Kingston upon Thames all the time, like tonight. If you really want to get all those answers come join us, more the merrier. If you fancy joining us tonight email Xris_x@hotmail.com, bring a bike, any bike As for looking silly on a mod, yeah you will, but they are much easier to learn on and if you get the right length one it will feel finie, but the monty frames always feel small because they are small, you'll need something biggger or it will hurt your back. If you want to start on the cheap you can find what you want here and on ebay easily, but buying cheap is not the cheapest way to go about things, cheap is hardly ever good and will break or make it really dificult to learn on.

Mail me the details to xris_x@hotmail.com, SORTED

Is that a 31.8 clamp or the smaller one as i run 31.8 bars? What condition and how much?

Its so shocking to be hearing this, yeah the BB7 is powerful but since when was it all about the power on the front. BB7 grabs, HARD, but for some moves there seems to be too little modulation. I've seen great riders with brakes so weak (Andy Chai is one of them) doing shocking things, and they always say the same thing, its all about the control, but its still gota have some power. Hope seems to have that, when set up right it powerful enough as a back brake yet has enough modulation for a front. There is only one thing that really favours mechanical brakes is that the levers are dirt cheap so you can drop the bike all you want and not get that sick feeling as you watch your lever dig into that concrete block.

I ride a limey (it’s not yet snapped before you ask) and I must admit its bloody long even considering I'm 6'3". I've moved from a Zebdi which is seriously short and am still trying to get the bike to feel good all round use. I've currently got a 100mm stem with 10deg rise and the bike feels very good on the back wheel but its just so hard to bring up onto the rear wheel. I tried swapping the stem to one which was 40mm long and it made the bike exactly like the Zebdi, in fact the distance from the BB to the bar became the same as with the Zebdi, so does the stem length have the same effect as changing the frame length, I think so. Can anyone say they found the same thing or am I just chattin arse? I also found that with a shorter stem it was harder to handle the bike, like as if the bars where narrower, I'm trying to get hold of a 70mm stem to see if that makes for a good balance. We'll see how it goes. Any recommendations? Can anyone else who's close to 6'3" give distances from BB to bar for there perfect setup. Cheers Boys (any girls out there?)

I bought one of these, and i can tell you they flex like bugery, the cranks use truative powerspline BB which is useless, the cranks dont engage all the way onto the splines so they round easily and try changing your BB..you have to change the chainset if you want a good BB in there. The forks are good for the money and so is the gearing, its miles better than shimano equivilant. The brakes they use are tektro agura, and they have only just started selling spares for them two weeks ago, there ok, but i wouldn't pay for them. The only reason i got the bike was cos i got ride to work scheme and got 60% off the price. Best way to go. There are better bikes out there for less money, just have to serch for them. Wow i just saw the price, I paid £350 for mine and it came with Avid Juicy 7 brakes i felt like i just got my moneys worth.

Definitely mate, it’s far more explosive with outbursts of power, we're not racing road bikes, we explode then line up again, then explode again. Isn't it just like pulling up a huge weight, dropping it, then doing it again. Any techniques recomended?

Something I’ve been thinking about for a while is that no matter how often I ride every week my muscles aint getting much more powerful so I’m thinking of going to the gym to build up any muscles that need it. Is there anyone out there who has tried this and had any success? Any tips. I've read up and spoken to some guys in the gym who advise on this stuff and they recommend that building big powerful muscles for what we do is the best way rather than thin muscles for stamina.....what you guys think?

I had too many adrenalin fuelled accidents on my motorbikes and decided I needed to get my kicks somewhere safer...Then I started working with an trials rider who showed me the ropes. Two years on and I think its miles better than sports bikes, the cops just don’t give a damn if your on one wheel or none at all, but who would have thought trials is more expensive! Thanks Tim

That would never happen, who would invest that much money to set up all the tooling needed to make the stem and only make 6. If they would bother doing that they would at least design the thing properly!

I love the response to someone doing something practicle like reviewing cheap products! Bikehut stems are made by Toiga...anyone want to say anything about Toiga? last time i checked they made some good parts. And like it was said, half the stems (and frames) we see are all made in the same factory and just have a different sticker on them, so dont follow brand names like sheep, go out and try them before you splash out £50 on a new"branded" one...what if the cheap one is good? On the plus, its good to see so many riders here with their heads screwed on, no wonder there is a system to filter out people from the main forum.