Alex Dark
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Posts posted by Alex Dark
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7 hours ago, Canardweb said:
Thank you and sorry for the late reply.
Oh, I got mine with the complete bike and I don't think I got something like a bleed hose with it. I will have to investigate through the parts' mess. Thank you for your help and sorry for the late reply!
I've meant to make a bleed hose, but seem to have got away with just bleeding bottom up and letting the water run out of the lever for the past 3 years.
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I think I’d almost rather a fork than a hub failure….
id be willing to run budget Chinese stuff on a mountain bike , but I don’t think I could bring myself to on a trials bike. I can’t think of anything that’s non-critical in trials.
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Even more impressive seeing this stuff in person. Great seeing you producing videos of this length and calibre again Rich
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Laced the Spank to a spare chris king singlespeed HD I picked up a few months back. I had my old chris king / Onza series front wheel kicking around for the last decade since I dropped front disc, so that went straight on.
Blagged a spare set of trialtech disc forks to replace the inspired… much prefer the shape of these. Also bought a 110x35mm stem from Adrian too to make it a little more trialsy.
Fitted my old middleburn rs7 super pro TI cranks , with a reset TI BB. Spent an hour making a 74kingz tensioner to suit the new ratio.
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Hated the skinny 21mm rims , so nabbed a brand new Spank Al40 rim from Adrian Jordan.
I sold the hope Pro2 wheel set to a local DJ guy for £50 over asking (£150) if I delivered them that day
Sold the m810 saints as well.
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So, I picked up this Hex back in May after losing a bit of love for pure trials.
Managed to get hold of it for a pretty decent price from Rob Lawrenson with a worthwhile spec:
Hope Pro2 evo hubs on ex721s and maxxis Holyrollers
shimano Saint m810 crankset
hope tech m4 W. 203 icetech rotor.
magura 2005 HS33, phat pads , braided hoses, trialtech 4 bolt boosterinspired Hex mk1 frame, powder coated black.
inspired hex mk1 disc forks
90x35 trialtech stem
trialtech high rise bars
plastic “insane” pedals
some bmx seat
chris king Rasta headset
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Really impressive, powerful riding. Enjoyed that
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Is this the Limey 4 24 frame ? The black and white one ?
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Really enjoy your trials / street trials mix in there as opposed to some of the solely street edits.
Was the drop down to the thin wall the same one from “the robots are coming “ ?
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Theyre both fairly similar specc'd. Strength wise I'd probably choose the Zoo myself.
The Zoo, i think, is a 2012 pitbull. https://www.webcyclery.com/product/zoo-26-frame-1772.htm
Geometry is pretty good for a beginner up to expert although not the most up to date. Would be suitable for an average to tall guy.
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Right, can you provide some pictures? there's no such thing as an Echo Zoo! although they are both the same company. Rockman are inherently weak, although I have seen some frames still going now and taking a battering.
Echo and Zoo strength varies massively by year ( pre and post 2009/10 ).
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On 19/03/2021 at 11:09 AM, aener said:
Should be! f**king whopper
That front-gap recovery on the sleeper... Oh my
Can't wait for all this nonsense to calm down. What I wouldn't do for a south coast riding trip right about now...
Thanks mate, you definitely need to come down our way again...little plymouth roll around is long overdue!
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Really happy with this edit , all the best bits from 2020 riding aboard my Crewkerz.
edit from the legend Ryan McColm
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7 hours ago, Mark W said:
Ah fair enough, was curious as to how big a change it would have felt from a FFW setup. More in terms of weight positioning as much as anything, although with how light that hub is I suppose it's getting closer and closer to being fairly negligible between a FFW setup and a freehub. Especially so when you factor in just how good that I9 engagement feels!
Out of interest, what fittings do you have to use with those T-pieces? Something that's proprietary to them? Look really neat and tidy!
To be honest I never really notice much difference, whatever you lose in weight centralization I feel you make back in less friction and a freer drivetrain. The engagement is mad, just makes everything else even a 135 freewheel just feel sloppy.
Nothing at all, the pneumatic tees are just push fit.
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10 hours ago, Mikee said:
Those T pieces as brake splitters is a good idea. I use those sometimes at work for pneumatics, and they are brilliant.
Couldn’t be happier with them , they just work !
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11 hours ago, Mark W said:
Out of interest, what setup did you have on it before? Was it straight from FFW to the I9, or did you go to a Hope or something first?
Bike looks sweet, incidentally!
I was front freewheel for a month or so, but every other main bike I’ve had has been on a King.
Thanks man !
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4 hours ago, Adam@TartyBikes said:
Industry 9, fits straight in: https://www.tartybikes.co.uk/135mm_free_hubs/industry_nine_hydra_classic_single_speed_6b_rear/c148p13965.html
Liking the little custom bits, Alex!
Thanks Ads !
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4 hours ago, Target said:
What rear hub is that, and how have you fitted it into Crewkerz through axle dropouts?
As Adam says , the hydra drops straight in with zero modification
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Got a new whip finished the other day, finally retired my cracked and carbon skinned long with this lovely Medium.
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You can buy pedal inserts like the old tensile cranks have, it’d have to be drilled and tapped the same as a coil, but I’d personally much prefer this to side loading a helicoil that much !
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There’s a pretty poor supply chain at the moment due to brexit and COVID combined. Loads of shops are struggling to get hold of or maintain stock levels.
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Think that’s an early frame. Geo is around 1045 , 0 , 390 , 71.5
I think they used to crack on the chain stay
Pre-emptively replacing parts
in Trials Chat
Posted
I would personally only be replacing chains and brake pads on a periodical basis. Rotors should not be cracking , especially with the force a BB5 and a new rider can exert on them.
Anything aluminium can and will fatigue, the most likely culprits in my experience being very old magura slaves , forks ( normally magura mount ) handlebars and crank arms. This is usually fairly rare though. Nearly all riders change most of their bike if not their whole bike every 2 / 3 years or so , so most of this risk is negated. That being said intelligent ( higher end and not too worn out ) component choice can mean a bike can reliable beyond this while just replacing consumables ( like chains , pads etc )