Alex Dark

Is it a mark1 base, or mark2?

Well, you could replace the hub with something along the lines of a Chirs King(300 ish) or a profile(150ish), or, you could buy a fixed hub ( 70ish), change the cranks (50 ish)and run a front freewheel(30 ish). All three are expensive options, but as MadManMike said, the hub will last for a fair while, if you dont put that much power through the drivetrain, so it might be better to simply replace it when it breaks, and with replacement freehubs at only 15 pounds they aren't such a bad option to consider.

well...it looks fairly sturdy with a good set of try-all components. The only real bad points that i can see is that it uses a deore rear hub ( freehub wont handle trials for more than a few weeks ) and it runs on vees which although CAN be used for trials, arent the ideal choice, especially no brand aluminum ones. For anyone else that wants to comment on this topic, below is a link of the translated page: http://www.tiny.cc/9twXt

Is it possible to lace a 36 hole hub to a 32 hole rim? If so, is there any special way of doing it?

Thanks for the help everyone, i think im now looking for around 100mm length with a good bit of rise....as to the last previous comment about the bb drop, i switched out the stock forks with longer ones, so it now has a 0 bb and slacker head angle, which i prefer.

Ive got an Onza woodstock, problem is it doesnt feel right.....it feels too short and not flicky enough, i also find it hard(er than the koxx) to keep the front wheel in the air when im BW hopping. I'm running a 110mm stem with 0* rise with 2" of spacers. It's meant to have a (100mm x 10*) with 1 inch of spacing. I really like my friends koxx levelboss 1065 ( 110mm reach, 45*( http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/972533/ )) , that feel is what im aiming for...... Any suggestions on stem length, spacer size and bar selection would be greatly appreciated!

The forks turn dull and lose their shine, you might notice a slight white tinge to them as well, you're best off wire wooling them, then polishing them and re-lacquering them in my opinion

Would you mind if i came? I can get there about 5ish

The base really is a great all-round frame, and at £100 it really is a good buy.....you could also look at an onza woodstock. I commute on mine; 4miles, 3days a week with a 28t front ring and gears.

First you need a good load of paint, 2 400ml cans of topcoat, 1 or 2 of lacquer and 1 or 2 of primer should do you fine. Remember: * prep is everything, without a good key, the paint wont adhere properly and youll be left with a weak paint job that will chip or flake easily, * Temperature can have a real bearing on paint properties, the best time is on a hot, dry day. This will ensure the best possible finish * DO NOT get any contaminants on the frame during any stage.....dust will ruin a perfect finish, and any oil like substances will react with the paint causing it to orange peel. You then need to sand the frame(not to bare metal) what you're aiming for is a textured keyed surface that will help the paint stick, after this, the frame needs wiping to remove the old paint dust. * Remember to do all nooks and crannies of the frame. The primer now needs to be applied.....can at around 25cm away from the frame with thin coats sprayed at 10min intervals will give you best results. You now need to do the main spraying, the topcoat...as above, thin coats at ten minute intervals. The next step is optional..... polishing. To get a really nice shine and lustre to your finish you need to polish back the very top layer of paint, removing any imperfections in the surface...a good quality cutting compound needs to be used e.g T-cut.....With a clean lint-free cloth, apply cutting compound sparingly and rub in small in small circles, until the paint is smooth and a good shine is achieved. NB * The paint should be left to harden for at least 1 day before attempting any polishing * Cutting compund does wear away at the paint, leaving you with a thinner coat than before Now the lacquer needs to be applied.....as with the normal spraying.....thin coats at ten minute intervals. Now the final stage....lacquer polishing, again this is entirely optional but it really does give you first class results, same method as above, but lacquer isnt as hard as paint, so wears through quicker. Hope this helps! I know there was a link posted for a method earlier on in the topic, but as it didnt work i thought id put mine up as back-up!

woodstock, because its light and it was cheap at the time! ( and just a bit more trialsy than a saracen x-ess!!)

2 x raceline hs33s both with koolstop pads, no grind, and the rear i use with tar

definitely the GU...so much better looking!

Welcome to trials forum!

I'd say white components.....white wheels would look sick on your bike, really stand out

Saracen Fastrax with a (mangled) triple chainset and vees.....good times

Look at as many riding vids as you can ( mastering the art from Ryan Leech, Dirty Tricks and Cunning Stunts from the Marts and obviously Youtube.com) and get out on your bike as much as you can!

Mastering the art of trials is a great dvd for learning techniques from. trashzen.com also has a lot of small clips to explain moves though

A grind would just eat those pads in a matter of hours......you're best off using tar with them, or buying some grind specific pads, like koxx bloxx or the like.

Nice bike, and pretty damn impressive skills for how long you've been riding!

It's great to see him in action, still an awesome rider!

It has to be one of the most versatile sports out there; all you need is a flat bit of tarmac and you can go.... and nearly all the skills you learn in trials can be used in whatever other forms of riding you do...... I agree it is really amazing to think how far trials has come from using cantis on an xc frame with a stupidly long stem, to the super light weight, specific bikes we ride now

I was looking throught the forum and couldnt see any topics with any special deals or offers....so i thought id start one. first off: http://www.bikes4trials.com/products.php?plid=m4b0s137p150 the above is a great wheelset thats taken easily all the abuse i can throw at it....only ever really buckled once, and that was a very sketchy 6ft side drop please post more good offers! sorry if this has been done before, but i couldnt find one

Nearly definite that it's a 22t

Theres 2 of us in lostwithiel, about 6 in staustell and a couple in par, all of them go riding in plymouth from time to time.