modman

Ahhhh sweet!! That sounds like a really good idea. Don't suppose anyone's heard any news about the one in rainham have they????

Ahhh cool, should have a abit of competition then between us then hehe, although you'd probably do alot better than i would at natural stuff, haven't had the time to practise (Damn fulltime and winter grrr) But yeah looking forward to it should be a laugh.

Will probably be taking the blue route, i'm guessing thats intermediate is'nt it???

Hey there, Nice video you've made, i really enjoy watching natural style riding, really shows the skill of riders if they can pull it off well in a video. Keep up with the good riding

Hey matty, Cheers for the help!! I'll get the lads to send off their forms asap then. Will you be in attendance?

Hey Guys and Girls, Me and a few of the lads from Streetfurnituretrials.com are looking to do competitions this year at the Essex Biketrial Club but haven't found when the first one actually starts. so if anyone knows where and when it starts would be very helpful. Cheers,

Hey Guys, Just fixed my bike this evening so me and a few lads from www.streetfurnituretrials.com will be coming along too, even our photogrpaher has decided to come out for a change. So what time is everyone meeting? Usual 11am at Shell Center??

Hey Bristol kid, Running a rear disk in my opinion depends on what sort of riding you mainly or plan to do. For competition/offroad riding they are ideal, consistant braking no matter what the weather or terrain, also they sit alot further away from the ground meaning they dont contaminated as easy as a rim brake does. For street use they can be prone to being caught on walls when sidehoping etc. But overall in my opinion if you get the right disk brake and set it up correctly and look after it then they are much better than any rim brake that i've used. Hope this helps dude. Hey Bristol kid, Running a rear disk in my opinion depends on what sort of riding you mainly or plan to do. For competition/offroad riding they are ideal, consistant braking no matter what the weather or terrain, also they sit alot further away from the ground meaning they dont contaminated as easy as a rim brake does. For street use they can be prone to being caught on walls when sidehoping etc. But overall in my opinion if you get the right disk brake and set it up correctly and look after it then they are much better than any rim brake that i've used. Hope this helps dude.

Hey Bristol kid, Running a rear disk in my opinion depends on what sort of riding you mainly or plan to do. For competition/offroad riding they are ideal, consistant braking no matter what the weather or terrain, also they sit alot further away from the ground meaning they dont contaminated as easy as a rim brake does. For street use they can be prone to being caught on walls when sidehoping etc. But overall in my opinion if you get the right disk brake and set it up correctly and look after it then they are much better than any rim brake that i've used. Hope this helps dude.

Hey Bristol kid, Running a rear disk in my opinion depends on what sort of riding you mainly or plan to do. For competition/offroad riding they are ideal, consistant braking no matter what the weather or terrain, also they sit alot further away from the ground meaning they dont contaminated as easy as a rim brake does. For street use they can be prone to being caught on walls when sidehoping etc. But overall in my opinion if you get the right disk brake and set it up correctly and look after it then they are much better than any rim brake that i've used. Hope this helps dude.

Hello everyone, At the moment i currently riding a 2006 Koxx XTP mod in the short version with slight modifications as where the Koxx parts don't last that long. Modifications being: Echo forged cranks DMR V8 pedals Tensile Freewheel Monty eagle claw tyres (awaiting on delivery) Monty XL pads (awaiting on delivery) Monty snail cams Other bikes ridden include a Leeson clear660, a Saracen M.A.D 26" cheapy thing, an Onza T rex and last but not least when i first started trials about 5-6 years ago i started out on a GT Tempest modded for more trials use.

Your best bet is too have a really good look around your drivetrain. Some material from your jeans may be stuck somewhere, thus causing pedaling to be stiffer. Another reason for the problem could be a bent tooth in your chainring. When you pedal does it go 'stiff' then normal, then 'stiff' again? This could be a sign that there could be a damaged tooth. If you take your chain off and spin the cranks, watch the teeth if they are not straight, consider replacing the chainring/freewheel. I hope that this has been off help to you! Your best bet is too have a really good look around your drivetrain. Some material from your jeans may be stuck somewhere, thus causing pedaling to be stiffer. Another reason for the problem could be a bent tooth in your chainring. When you pedal does it go 'stiff' then normal, then 'stiff' again? This could be a sign that there could be a damaged tooth. If you take your chain off and spin the cranks, watch the teeth if they are not straight, consider replacing the chainring/freewheel. I hope that this has been off help to you!

Your best bet is too have a really good look around your drivetrain. Some material from your jeans may be stuck somewhere, thus causing pedaling to be stiffer. Another reason for the problem could be a bent tooth in your chainring. When you pedal does it go 'stiff' then normal, then 'stiff' again? This could be a sign that there could be a damaged tooth. If you take your chain off and spin the cranks, watch the teeth if they are not straight, consider replacing the chainring/freewheel. I hope that this has been off help to you!

Your best bet is too have a really good look around your drivetrain. Some material from your jeans may be stuck somewhere, thus causing pedaling to be stiffer. Another reason for the problem could be a bent tooth in your chainring. When you pedal does it go 'stiff' then normal, then 'stiff' again? This could be a sign that there could be a damaged tooth. If you take your chain off and spin the cranks, watch the teeth if they are not straight, consider replacing the chainring/freewheel. I hope that this has been off help to you!

Hi ben j, Well as an owner of a Koxx XTP mod with the Hope Tryall disk brake on the front, i can definately say that it has to be the most responsive disk i have ever used. Previous disk brakes i've used have been the Magura Marta with a 160mm rotor which was fitted to my old Leeson, and an Avid BB7. Now if you want a disk brake that will lock and nothing else, the Hope Tryall is for you or if you want some modulation then it will be the Magura Marta and if your on a budget, the BB7 will do just nicely. There are lots of other disk brake manufacturers but these are the ones i have have tried and found to of worked really well. Hope this has helped you out.

To fix a puncture: 1 Release brake calipers, or remove your Magura and then remove the wheel. 2 Use tyre levers, available from bike shops or spoons available from your kitchen to remove the tyre. 3 Carefully run your fingers around the inside of the tyre to check for sharp objects, such as nails, splinters of glass or thorns. Remove the cause of the puncture and check that there are no more spikes in the tyre. If you cannot find anything you may of had a 'pinch flat'. 4 Find the hole in the tube, either by pumping it up and holding it underwater to look for bubbles, or by feeling for escaping air. 5 Mark the hole with pen or chalk. Use sandpaper or the scratcher from the puncture repair kit to scuff the area around the hole to help secure the glue to the tube. 6 Spread glue thinly and evenly over and around the hole and wait for the glue to dry until it feels tacky to touch. Place a patch over the marked hole and apply pressure. (A faster alternative is to use the new glueless patches.) 7 Lightly pump up the tube. Place one edge of the tyre around the wheel rim and push the tube’s valve into the rim’s hole. Starting from the valve, push the rest of the tube into the tyre. Ensure the valve stem is perpendicular to the rim and that the tube isn’t twisted. Once the tube is inside the tyre, begin to place the second edge of the tyre onto the rim. About 75% of the tyre will go on easily, the rest will need strong fingers or tyre levers to coax it onto the rim. Take care not to pinch and damage the tube. When complete, pump a little more air into the tube and check that the tube isn’t caught between the rim and the tyre. 8 Slide the wheel back into place on the bike and tighten the bolts gradually, ensuring that the wheel remains aligned straight to the frame. Reconnect the brakes. 9 If you are happy with it, fully pump up the tyre. Take the bike on a short ride, and test that the brakes are still set up correctly Tip: To save me wasting a day i usually carry a spare tube if i am going somewhere where i am not sure if there is a bike shop nearby. Otherwise i carry come money to buy a new tube, and hope that the shop will let me use there tools. If you don't mind carry a bag, bring some tools and spares. Hope this is helpful to some of you!