Phreemann

Ummm. How about, say, Magura's HS33? http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/wiki/Magura

I liked that video, it gave me some ideas of things to try where I live. Thanks.

J E James cycles seems to stock some Woodman parts, but you'd probably have to order that part specially. I don't think anywhere has the full Woodman range in stock - if anyone knows otherwise, I'd like to know, as there's a few parts I'm after myself. http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/WOODMAN/pg1.html For inquiries - http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/contact.html

How about this one? http://www.woodmancomponents.com/catalog/c...dis&lang=en Any good?

Originally he was asking where the cheapest place to buy a single Magura brake was, besides eBay. Ryan Leech rides a lot with a suspension fork up front - he tends to stick to relatively lightweight forks like the Marzocchi MX Comp, lowered for better geometry. Jump forks are just too heavy, I guess.

Wellies and stillettos are out as well. Unless... Well, unless you want to a) look very stupid and b ) get very injured. Although I seem to remember an article in MBUK a while back about a pro rider doing a competition in a pair of wellies.

Heh, I was just messing with you dude.

Saw an advert for a shoe at the top of the page, and thought I'd ask. What sort of shoes are favoured by trials riders? I ride street and dirt normally and wear Vans Hi-Tops because of the ankle support and protection, and their grippy waffle pattern soles. I guess trials riders are after pretty much the same attributes, but don't most trials riders use cage pedals rather than pedals with pins? How does that affect shoe choice? What are people wearing? (On their feet, obviously, this isn't a dirty phone call after all.)

He's clearly mistakenly typed "old farts" in place of "upstanding members of our community". Easy to do, really. mountain biker, your posts require re-reading several times in order to glean any kind of meaning from them.

Heh, you're right. That's quite strange. Maybe you should go in one day with armfuls of really cheap BMX tyres and swap them round.

Someone once said, "there are no stupid questions - only stupid answers." Obviously this was someone who had never been on an internet forum, as they'd have found copious quantities of both, but questions to save money don't count in my book as stupid. I'm not really sure what I'm trying to say here, but what the heck. Glad to have helped. EDIT: Couldn't you just add the new question underneath the old one or something? Because otherwise this thread is going to get really confusing really fast.

Not really. You absolutely sure it's the same tyre?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=7138 Saves you a little over a fiver, plus postage is free.

For reference, Gear Ratio = Number of teeth on driving sprocket ÷ Number of teeth on driven sprocket Therefore, when re-arranged; Number of teeth on driven sprocket = Number of teeth on driving sprocket ÷ Gear Ratio And; Number of teeth on driving sprocket = Number of teeth on driven sprocket x Gear Ratio

Yeah, that's it. You can work it backwards to check it's right. 22 divided by 18 = 1.222222 16 divided by 13 = 1.2307692 Which is close enough for this, and as close as you can get.

I make it a 13T rear you'll need with a 16T front. 22 / 18 = 1.2222 So to get that ratio with a 16T front, 16 / 1.2222 = 13.091147 16T front, 13T rear.

Eh? Land Rover? The Phase bikes are from the M.A.D trials team, this is their official site: http://www.m-a-d.co.uk/phase3.html

Pretty sweet, but I think they might have missed a trick by not running a small gusset between the top and bottom tubes somewhere,as there isn't much contact between the bottom and top tubes at the headtube weld. I guess they must have tested it and decided it was stiff enough already. Also, that hole in the front isn't going to look half as cool with a grease stained normal fork steerer tube peeping through. Nice all the same though.

Better yet, you could just take the length of chain and some zipties. Find the wood while you're out, or do it the most suitable way and take it from someone's garden... Don't take stuff from people's gardens, kids.

Well, here's my effort. What do you do with the length of chain left over when you convert your bike to singlespeed? You make the world's most ghetto chainwhip! Couple of zipties, chunk of wood, sorted. Works a charm.

I'm sure what you meant to say was something more like this: "I have been riding for one year, but I haven't been on my bike due to financial difficulties for approximately 3 months. I suppose I have been riding for about 7 months properly - where I live, we apparently don't count December and January as real months because they're cold, so one year is made up of ten months. Strange, eh?" Seriously man, are you that lazy or disinterested in your topic that you can't be bothered to type all the letters that comprise your words, or even just stop and think for a moment about whether or not what you've posted makes sense? I find deliberate mis-spellings and "txt talk" irritating on any forum, but on one that specifically makes a point of asking members not to use it and has a validation period, it's just taking the piss. Sorry, rant over here. Carry on people.

Just remove the derailleur and shifter and sell them. Should give you a bit of cash for a chain tensioner and singlespeed conversion. All saracen bikes I have ridden and come across have just been rubbish. Not being an arsehole here, just telling it like it is. Save your cash.

Here you go: http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?id=2147 I'd definitely go for the Phase over the Saracen.

Yeah, I mean if you're going to seriously injure yourself at least look stylish whilst doing it. Was that kid bleeding out of his ears? That's never good... There's been a few times when I know I would have been in serious trouble had I not been wearing a helmet when I crashed. Yeah, it feels nice riding without one, right up until the point where you're resurfacing the concrete with your head.

Which would you say offers more ultimate stopping power? At the minute I'm leaning towards the exact setup you're using, but because my bike also doubles nicely for street and jump riding I'm still undecided. I like the idea of being able to bleed with water, does this cause any problems with the brake, i.e. rust or lack of lubrication?