3001978

I must admit coming from a MTB background I pumped for the long frame and it certainly is that. I might as well try and keep it looking good for as long as possible hence the tape but its going to get f**ked. If it stays nice, Im either insanely good or I'm just not using it enough, i'm plumping for the latter of those two. I'm yet to cut the steerer tube down, I want to have a little play and make sure i'm happy with the height first. CW

GUYS, I have finally finished my Pure and have posted some photos for you. Specification as follows: Echo Pure - Long [2009] Echo SL Headset Echo Urban forks Echo SL stem Echo risers Ritchey Foam Grips Hope Pro 2 front hub built on Echo TR rim with DT Swiss spokes Hope Pro 2 trials rear hub built on Echo TR rim with DT swiss spokes Maxxis Minnion Tyres [2.35" / 2.50"] Echo SL chainset with Echo sproket [18T] and Echo SL bashring Echo TR bottom bracket Shimano DX rear sprocket [15T] Sram PC-1 chain Magura HS11 rear brake with Echo SL brake clamps Avid Juicy 3 Front brake Revolution pedals Now that the majority of snow has melted up this way I am hoping to get this out for a good wee run in the next few days. Let me know what you think. REGARDS CALLUM

For those blessed with an air line kicking around, yes I agree works a treat, for the less fortunate I have found the other options can work effectively. REGARDS CW

SHAUN, Washing up-liquid, Isoproply or hairspray are usual tools for this job. They all work because they all dry or evaporate. Therefore initialy they make the grip slide on with ease they then dry / evaporate causing the grip to stay put. I have used all three and tend to prefer Isopropyl saves me smelling like a big girls blouse. Just spray the bar and inside of the grip with your 'lubricant' of choice slide the grip on, make yourselve a cup of tea and hey presto one solid grip. (N.B Washing up liquid takes longer to dry - leave overnight) REGARDS CALLUM (03001978)

GUYS, My Giant Trance X, my beloved All Mountain Bike. Would be lost without this as every weekend its get a run. Giant X FrameRock Shox Pike 'U' turn coils (95mm-140mm) X9 Gearing Hope Mini M4's XT chainset with FSA bash and Truvativ chain device Hope Pro 2's on Mavic XC717's, DT swiss Competition spokes Thomson Post SBC Phenom saddle Easton EA70 bars Truvativ Team Stem Also, my Marin Nothside Trail setup for bit of dirt jumping and street work. The spec was basic when I bought it but I changed most parts and it rode really nice. I have just recently sold it though as I didnt use it all that much. Tora's, X9, Avid Juicy 5's, Shimano Hollowtech chainset..... REGARDS CALLUM

It has been mentioned, but to reiterate it sounds like you have started to round the taper on the crank (mostly happens with the left hand crank arm and on square taper cranks) Once you noticed that it was loose I presume there was a small amount of riding involved (i.e to get home / pub / bke shop etc...) this starts the process of rounding the taper on the cranks meaning the hole is now larger than the male counter part on the bottom bracket spindle which will now create play between the two. So, when you go to crank there will a little movement before the crank engages the spindle which will start to further wear out your cranks, so the problem will persist. You tend not to wear out your BB as it is steel where most cranks are made from softer Aluminium. There is no way to solve this other than buying new cranks. Regardless how tight you torque that bolt up it will still work loose as there is that bit of play, so overtightening is never going to help. You should never over tighten anyway there are reccomended torque levels as this is all that is required, if you needed to tighten a bolt until it was no longer coming out it would seem that there is a design flaw somewhere aling the line. With this in mind, I would suggest that you change your cranks, and whilst you are at, you might as well upgrade to ISIS drive, this eliminates the flat surfaces found on the square taper and the splined engagement will create a better pick-up, and your LH crank arm will not come loose. With any new bike you do need to periodically check the components, a new bike has never been ridden it has only been assembled by manufacturer and bike shop employee using a workstand, so during its first few rides it is very common that bolts will work there way loose and cabling will stretch and readjusting simply down to vibrtaion and cables bedding in. This is why bike shops offer an after sales service after approximetley 6 weeks times. Good luck on the crank shopping. REGARDS CALLUM

Personally, I would recommend going for an Isis bottom bracket / crank as the mating between the two is stronger plus you will get a much bigger range of BBs and cranksets to choose from. Expect to pay about £25 upwards for a bb and about £40 upwards for cranks. The ECHO SL cranks are very nice at £100 (ish) plus your freewheel, bash and bb about £150. Well worth the pennies. REGARDS CW

Thought you guys might be interested in this. Fellow Scot MacAskill on his Telly debut. http://www.s1jobs.com/dannymacaskill/ Enjoy! CALLUM

Hi, I thought it be best to introduce myself. I am Callum and I am based up in Abedeen. Relatively new to trials riding but been a big Mountain Biker for as long as I remember, as well as racking up the miles on the road bike. As I am hopeless at any sort of dirt jumping, I am slowing it down getting into trials riding. As my dad was into his motocross and motorcycle trails it was pretty much a given that some sort of two wheel gene was passed down through the line. Been in the bike trade for more than 8 years now, and am encouraged by the amount of young talented trails riders kicking around Aberdeen, mostly riding 20" but its just a shame that none of the bike shops stock trials specific parts and we have to default to internet purchases. If anyone is up for some riding, trials or other wise, get in touch. I know some good MTB routes up here and hopefully you guys can point out some gems for trials. As I am in the process of building up a 26" trials bike I am currently bikeless but hopefully within the next couple of months I will be up and running. ALL THE BEST CALLUM (03001978)

In case any of you wish to built up a Hope pro 2 single speed and wish to know the dimensions for inputing into DT Swiss spoke calculator they are as follows: Pitch Circle Diameter: Left. 56.00mm Right. 54.00mm Flange Distance: Left. 34.50mm Right. 29.50mm Spoke Hole Diameter: 2.60mm DT Swiss do not hold the information on the trails hub just the pro 2 and there is 1mm difference in spoke length (although you could get away with it) Hope this helps CALLUM (03001978)

Thanks for the replies, certainly solved a debate in my head, in the middle of building up my bike so I will post some pictures soon. CALLUM (03001978)

As a newbie to trials riding, I am curious about the front sprocket set up. I currently use a Hope pro 2 singlespeed / Trials hub on my commute bike and have recently built another set of wheels with the same hub for trials riding, but now I am pondering whether it is best to stick to a fixed sprocket on the rear with your freewheel on the front (from which I gather is preferred) or stick to your freehub set up with the fixed sprocket on the front or is it blasphemiest to run both as freewheels? Plus, I am going to be running my tyre pressures at about 12-15psi - is that a common base mark or can anyone reccomend an alternative. Your advice is much appreciated. CALLUM (03001978)