Mark W

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Mark W last won the day on May 28

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About Mark W

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  • Birthday 12/29/86

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    Trials, photography, filming, fun.
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    Mark Westlake
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    Inspired Arcade.
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  1. I only read Kevin's comments rather than watching all the Stories, so I don't know fully what he was saying outside of the comments on IG. Initially I thought he was implying something else and got a little thrown by that, but looking back I see what he was saying. Essentially, I don't think the reach/stack measurements are going to work out exactly with the 'old' reach for a variety of reasons (roundings in the new calculations, measuring things by eye/tape measure vs. plotting specific points distances on a computer, and a few others). I'm going to look into it more and see what's up with it and see where variations are coming in, but for now as all the reach/stacks are worked out using the same datasets on the same bike geometry calculator, they should be a fair like-for-like comparison if you look from one bike to another. We're going to add the 'old' reach calculations back in too. We thought that as the new measurements offer a greater level of detail about feel that riders would basically be able to look at a frame they know they like, check out the measurements, then look at a prospective new frame/bike to work out what the differences would be, but it sounds like some people just want to know the 'old' reach. It kind of reminds me of when we first introduced the 'old' reach measurements to bikes, but there were some hold-outs who didn't care as they just wanted to base it purely on wheelbase. 'Old' reach is still a more accurate way of assessing ride than the wheelbase, but with the variations in frame geo and construction now we need something a bit "more". That 'old' reach is distorted by BB height and top tube length, and if you look across our range of bikes there's an over 80mm difference between the lowest/highest BB, and over 40mm is difference between headtube lengths (which is nuts!). It's hard to really know how they play into things, which is the point of the new reach/stack measurements. It'll take a little while for people to work out preferences and how they want a bike to feel and consequently the geo they need, but I don't think that adding more info is a bad thing. Admittedly if you prefer the 'old' reach us removing it wasn't ideal, but that's being reinstated so it should be all good from then.
  2. If it's just a slight amount it probably will just need to be tightened up Just replied to your other topic too.
  3. Think that's a 2003 T-Pro - just after the old 2002 style round tubed one, but before they switched to the Koxx Levelboss copy.
  4. Yeah, I'd agree with that. That's why it's been interesting seeing the Glasseyetrials clips being posted up of Porter, Bessell and co and a lot of people are talking about it being TGS, and wanting to bring that style of riding back under the whole "TGS ain't dead" banner. Their riding was almost the opposite of what TGS really was back then. They just did trials, basically - riding over anything/everything. Agree with Flipp about the different 'thing' with TGS. Think it's style, attitude but also spot choice.
  5. Your best bet will be to measure the one you've got there at the moment. You'll need to measure the width of the BB shell on the frame (it will most likely be 68mm), and then the length of the axle itself. Assuming it's a square taper BB, there are a few on the market that should work - you'll just need to double check those measurements to work out which way to go with it. The only other thing is before pulling the trigger on a new BB, try tightening the current BB. It could just be it's a bit loose and that's generating the play. If the bearings have died they usually get a bit rowdy, so it could be a cheap fix and all you need to do is nip the BB up. Your best bet is to loosen the non-drive side a touch (it's a regular thread, so you'll need to turn it anti-clockwise), then try and tighten the drive side (it's opposite thread, so turn it anti-clockwise), then tighten up the non-drive again.
  6. If you want a 25" rear wheel Monty frame, you want a 25" rear wheel Monty frame...
  7. All bikes and frames* on the TartyBikes site now have reach and stack measurements - not a huge change, but does give a bit more clarity about the way different frames will feel. The 'old' reach measurement was more useful than just relying on wheelbase was/is, but these new reach/stack measurements go a bit further. It's interesting to see how different frames compare (e.g. the Arcade being longer and lower and the Fourplay being shorter and higher), and how that correlates to how they feel to ride (with the Arcade/Fourplay, I always felt 'on' an Arcade and 'in' a Fourplay). The comp frames were a bit more surprising though. I compared an Echo 26" frame to the Clean K1, and with the 'old' reach the Echo appeared to be much longer. It turns out with the 'new' reach the Clean was longer, but the stack height of the Echo was what was skewing it. Nothing ground breaking here, but might be useful for some people to compare stuff if they're looking at switching frames/bikes... *Think there's only the Crewkerz Lab 18" and some random Monty frames that don't have them.
  8. Really good video Mike, enjoyed it a lot
  9. Just out of interest, if you can stretch to the Czar, that would theoretically also include the Flow Plus? The only reason I mention it is it negates the issue of the square taper cranks and Kenda tyres on the standard Flow. The tugs on the Flow are really nice - you don't need to have any worries about them For what it's worth, the usual rear hub upgrades people make to something like the Hope Pro 4 would still be do-able on the Czar. The Spanish BB aspect is a fair point, although they tend to be pretty reliable on those bikes. The tensioners aren't as prone to damage as conventional mech hanger mounted tensioners either - they're just far inboard enough they tend to be tucked out of the way of most impacts.
  10. The original Arcade had a 90x35 stem
  11. Your old bikes were around the +50-60mm BB height mark, and although +80mm is 'only' around 20mm more, that's quite a change in height! Going higher with the bar and stem will definitely help, especially for your height. It helps neutralise some of the over-the-bars feeling you get with higher BB bikes, but it'll never make it feel quite like your old bikes simply because your centre of gravity is lifted too, so it'll inherently feel different. In fairness, once you're used to them the new generation mods are super capable, they just take a bit of getting used to. I used to ride the old Levelboss-style T-Pro and loved it, but then rode a few higher BB mods and eventually got to grips. Still wouldn't ride one above the height yours is now, but horses for courses EDIT: Oh, forgot to say - I'm around the same height as you, and always ran 180mm stems. I wasn't doing all the super tech front wheel stuff people are doing now so a slightly lower front will probably work best for that, but if you want to try and get somewhat close to the feel of your old bike, a Jitsie, Trialtech or Clean Forged stem around the 180mm mark would be a good call. Just check you've got enough steerer to change stems first. If your current one is 150mm x 30° it's probably a sloping top cap stem, so switching to a flat top cap stem might be difficult unless you've got some spacers you can play around with.
  12. There was a nice feel to that. It also made me miss Barcelona a lot! As above, nice to see some really smooth, controlled lines in it.
  13. In fairness, with gearing for 24" bikes it's a bit of a tricky one as with an 18t front freewheel/sprocket, the 'ideal' ratio is around a 13.5t rear sprocket. Leads you to either go for a 14t to get a bit more trialsy pop/acceleration, or 13t to get a bit more power out at the expense of that acceleration. It might be worth seeing what you're running just to check. That said, for getting the front wheel up, you're kind of better off learning to help do it by using body movement/inputs rather than focusing too much on the gearing of your bike. If you ride natural or any tech setups where you can't roll the bike forward then learning to get the front end up by changing your gearing won't help you out. Like with all aspects of setup, it's about a compromise. You're best off focusing that compromise to favour the aspect of riding that's most reliant on it - for gearing, that's going to be gapping or doing moves from static, so not going too hard (and losing that snappy/fast accelerating feel) and not going too light (so not getting as much power out) is important. That's why gearing has typically settled on one normal ratio for each wheel size. You can dial things in a bit with crank length if you want, but for the problem you're talking about it seems like practise and technique adaptation is probably the best solution to it.
  14. "Countries without lockdowns and contact bans, such as Japan, South Korea and Sweden, have not experienced a more negative course of events than other countries. This might call into question the effectiveness of such far-reaching measures." Sweden: "Sweden prepares for possible tighter coronavirus measures as deaths rise. Country, which has taken soft approach, has death rate higher than Nordic neighbours’" Japan: "Japan to declare emergency as Tokyo cases soar" South Korea had a low rate because they acted early, tested a lot, and were very aggressive in isolating those who the virus and those who they'd been in contact with. Without being early like that, you're f**ked as it will have already spread. See also: Singapore. You can't really implement that kind of protocol once you've already got mass spread of it, and for most Western countries they haven't taken that opportunity. Just look at the test per capita in the US compared to South Korea - it isn't a coincidence that one is at one end of the spectrum and one is at the other when it comes to infections and deaths. The funny thing with people saying that lockdown measures were excessive because death rates and infections are so low is that that's the whole point of the lockdown measures. It's like saying that because there were fewer fatalities in car accidents after mandatory seat belt usage was introduced that seat belts were excessive. That's kind of the point.
  15. That super flowy rock line (or two) half way through were peachy. Alley oop manny 180 line as well! Nice lines throughout though, was a fun watch.