Mark W

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Mark W last won the day on November 11

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About Mark W

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  • Birthday 12/29/86

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    Trials, photography, filming, fun.
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    Mark Westlake
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    Inspired Arcade.
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  1. Yeah, I don't blame you for not wanting to go with Fords again. Yours seemed to be problematic and my Focus was a leaky, rusty, rattly bag of shit. Part of it was me being absolutely shafted by the garage I dealt with, but there was a fairly long list of things that people said often went wrong with the petrol Focus I had, and basically all of them did. A lot of it was due to stupid spec ideas by Ford too, so it wasn't the usual kind of failures you'd expect for high mileage engines or what have you. Nic's Mum has had a few new style Fiesta and Focus models and they've all had to go back to the dealer she bought them from for multiple issues too, thinking about it. Similar issues to mine with it being mistakes built in to the car as well. Her heater matrix has shit the bed on her 1-2 year old Fiesta several times now. Despite the dealer admitting it was a problem that Ford caused they're digging their heels in with replacing it this time despite it being in warranty, and them acknowledging it's a known issue. Weirdly, the seats on the Peugeot of Dreams weighed a tonne - the seat belt mechanisms in them much have been made of lead or something...
  2. Some not-quite-estate but not-quite-saloon cars can be fairly spacious too. I don't really know what it'd classify as, but as an example my Rovers were surprisingly spacious despite not really being one silhouette or the other (not that I'm implying you should go for a Rover). I'm not sure what your living setup is like at the moment, but if you've got a little storage space you can always unbolt the rear seats to get your some more space for when you need it too. If you're only likely to occasionally need the extra seats hopefully the space gained vs. inconvenience of fitting the seats would be the worth the trade-off. It might help a smaller car like the A4 still be suitable for your needs. The boot pan of the Focus and 206 I had both ended up being relatively flat once the seats were out, so if you were wanting to sleep in them you'd have enough room lengthways that way without having to kink yourself where the seats would normally be.
  3. Couple of things to be aware of with the Silex V2 - it's got a 25.4mm seat tube, so you'll need to get a suitably sized post for whichever type of setup you want. It'll have to be a BMX post, all the 'usual' ones for street bikes will be 27.2mm so won't fit. For some reason TMS don't supply the frame with tensioners despite saying they do. The dropouts have relatively little clearance around them (between the slot and the ends of the seat/chain stays) so you'd need to either get some Arcade tugs with longer bolts or go for something like the Trialtech tugs and grind down the main plate that fits around the axle to sit inside the dropouts. If you're getting it via TartyBikes, I think they've offered customers some longer bolts for Arcade tugs for that frame in the past so they should be able to help out.
  4. I got similar pain when I first got into climbing and was over-doing it a bit. I found some places online that suggested a certain type of exercise using something along these lines: I made my own from a metal pole, a milk bottle and a shoe lace - basically, you just hold it in front of you, rotate it as it lowers the weight to the ground, then spin it the other way to bring it back up. It looks like nothing, but even with a relatively low weight it properly gives your wrists, forearms and elbows a workout. It helped a lot for me, and very quickly too - it's an easy thing to make, so I'd highly recommend giving it a go. I ripped those photos from here, btw - haven't read the blog yet but might give you an idea:
  5. I don't really get the bit about playing nicely with 32? I see what you're saying about the 32/48 combo though, I hadn't really thought of it that way before. In my head 36 to 48 should still work better though just as the hole drillings in the hub are going to be closer to where they'd need to be for a 48, and 36 still goes into 48 fine (i.e. you're essentially just removing 3 spokes from each 'group' of spokes - i.e. drive inboard/drive outboard/non-drive inboard/non-drive outboard - rather than the 4 for 32h). I would assume that would mean less inconsistency with spoke lengths required, but that's by the by. If you're going 32h then that's that, and it'll just be a case of it being a bit of a mindblag trying to work out what lengths to use anyway. Flipp's right about the longer nipples though
  6. If it was 36h and divided into 48 nicely that'd be one thing, but with it being 32h that's going to be a bit of a shambles however you go about doing it in all honesty. Can't really think how you'd get around it without having to do a bit of trial and error action for the spoke lengths. You'll get a reasonable amount of lee-way with the nipples and spokes if you're happy to grind down any excess, but I don't know if that'll really be enough. Good luck!
  7. +1 on Hermes being dogdick. Apparently tried delivering a parcel twice, but haven't. Hadn't realised quite how shit their website is for providing useful info... EDIT: Got it
  8. A little bit longer shouldn't really affect the performance too much - they'll still be way shorter than you'd find on a full-size bike, and people use V-Brakes on those with no problems. You can route a V-Brake cable through the steerer, but they are a bit fiddlier to do. The cable has to wrap around the fork leg and the noodle will go into the caliper upside down, so you may find you need to tweak the angle of the noodle/buy a noodle with a different angle. It's just a case of trial and error working out the right cable length for it to work basically. If you buy a long cable and just trim it down bit by bit until you get a nice smooth curve leading to the noodle you should be fine. You'll need to get hold of one of these and hammer the existing star nut out:
  9. That was cool You monster that bike around! For some reason it looks really short/small? In some of those clips it almost looked like you were on a 24" or something (especially in the Portsmouth clips around 45secs in) - most people tend to make those Crewkerz look kind of barge-y but you look like you fit it really well. Ender clip was really nice too.
  10. A-haaaaaa - Stan told me that I had to see the clutch blipper when I was up last but I didn't get a chance. I now see why. Nice work!
  11. What gear ratio are you actually using on it? I ride a 24" and run 22:16 which is loosely equivalent to 22:17/18 on a 26. It's a 4.5 mile trip into town on my bike to ride the spots here, and on the way there's a speed trap that shows you your speed. Just riding along normally I'm usually doing between 12-15mph. Unless you've got a pair of Der Kaisers on your Hex there's no reason it should be much slower than that, so the "I just end up walking" thing doesn't make much sense to me... The Pashley won't be much different to your Hex apart from being a bit worse for trials and probably worse for street sort of stuff too. Longer back end, slacker head angle, lower BB - most bikes have moved away from that geo because it generally isn't as good. Equally, unless you're running different gearing getting around and stuff won't change much either unless you're hoping to run gears? Out of interest, what bar and stem did you use on your Hex, and what kind of bar angle were you running? The reason I ask is that most street trials bikes are really sensitive to bar/stem setup, and particularly bar angle. I've seen quite a lot of people go for a more old school style low, long stem on their Hex and that just doesn't really work with the BB height on them, and it'll contribute to it feeling bad for bunnyhops and having that "Weight over the front" vibe. That's why you'll generally see people using a 25-35° stem and some high rise bars on Inspired bikes as it counteracts the BB height to an extent and means your weight position is a bit more neutral.
  12. Kind of, but Instagram doesn't have the same kind of monetisation options as other platforms so just having shitloads of followers doesn't lead to stacks of cash necessarily. The only way I can really see you doing it is by being paid to re-post/share people's stuff, but if you're offering that service essentially for free to some, I can't imagine other people would necessarily want to pay for it, especially as it's not like generic re-posting accounts are in short supply. With "VIRAL BIKE PAGE" having more conspicuous links to Mike in their bio, and in post captions, I'd have thought that would be less likely too as your own brand/message is being diluted...
  13. I've never actually known a person behind one of the generic reposting pages on Instagram, so as you appear to be behind "VIRAL BIKE PAGE" Mike - what's the actual plan with that? Just in the sense that what's your end game for it? I assume the plan is to make money through it somehow in the end, but that style of page has always thrown me a bit as I can't really see how that would work.
  14. F1

    Bearing in mind 2 drivers got investigated and reprimanded for ignoring blue flags maybe they were just being extra strict with it? It was a fairly high profile incident to boot.
  15. F1

    It's a tricky one though - that move was pretty Vettel-esque from his recent attempts at 'overtaking' people. Can see why Max wouldn't have thought Ocon would have still been there as people had generally backed out of moves like that (e.g. Bottas/Ricciardo), but mirrors/giving more room would have been a safer bet. Ocon could probably have just held off and used the next DRS zone too seeing as the Force Indias are pretty rapid in a straight line. Benefits of hindsight/armchair expert-ing...