gzus11

On another note just to correct a previous statement somewhere in the privious posts, and I cannot remember what the point was. Water is more dense than oil, that is why oil floats on water. I think what the post was refering to was the viscosity of the fluids, water is less viscous so has a better response as there is less resistance in the system. Water is incompressibe (almost) I just wanted to correct the previous terminology, not flame anybody

QUOTE (Danny Swindlehurst @ Jun 5 2008, 11:54 PM) All i can say...ITS Shit.. Bang on with that comment, I completely agree. And reaper finished this week so I have nothing else to watch but the top quality films on Zone horror and Sci-fi

I'll mostly be using it to get about instead of my car, other than that I'll be at local skateparks learning balance, hops and jumping off ramps etc. As I get used to it and more confident I'll be trying new things. I have them at 30 Psi for now, the tyres feel firm enough, i had Bmx tyres up to 60 Psi and it made a difference to controll and confidence. I need to get this built soon and take it out for a blast.

What pressure can rim tape realistically withstand? These tyres are rated 65 Psi max, I want to run the tyre at a reasonably high pressure to reduce rolling resistance and the risk of kerb pinch (punctures). I assume that if the rim tape ruptures this will be bad for the inner tube and me at the same time. If anyone has experience please share info or any pictures could be interesting.

I used to get a noise that sounds like you describe on my old bikes. The hubs had cup/cone bearings and they made this noise if dirt got into the race, one had slight corrosion with the same noises and the last time I had it the cup had cracked all around the bearing face. I imagine cartridge bearings would behave similarly with any comtamination/corrosion As far as my experience goes the contamination caused the balls to make the noise which transfered out the spokes, similar to the noise of broken spokes. Another remedy you could try would be to strip the bearings and give them a good clean, inspect for any cracks, corrosion or dirt and carefully reassemble.

Cheers guys. I'm just getting into trials and jumping around, so I decided to try build something up from parts I have seen and liked, the Eject hub is a beatiful piece of design and was a pleasure to build on. I'll take on any advice given in here, but im going to try stuff out and see how it suits my style and skills. I had trouble in the wet on a similar tyre on my bmx, so I try not to push anything when its not dry, I got the hookworms for a decent price and really like the look of them so ill give them a go. Pictures will keep coming. What are a good fork (solid and suspension) that will take Hs33's these large tyres.

Ok I have some Pictures for you all. First up spoking the Simple Eject front hub to the rim. The hub is to be built in a four cross pattern, and came together surprizingly easily This is the completed wheel that just needs a final trueing. Some other pictures, magura mounted Hookworm Tyres I will uadate pictures as it progresses. All comments welcome

Hello all, New member signing in. I have been looking around here a bit and there is plenty good information to read. My bike history has been awful, the last two are GT freestyle and Diamond Back joker BMXs both got for less than a fiver. The last couple of months I have been jumping the DB around my local skate park. I have modified a magura rim brake onto the DB but that is as much as I'm doing with that bike. I have started building a kind fo jump bike, I'm not really sure how to class it. but im sure you all can provide a good description. If any of you are interested in any build pictures just ask and I will either link to them or post them here if I can. So far I have built the front wheel using a grey Simple Eject flangless hub, 45mm wide drilled rim from 24seven bikes, and maxxis hookworm tyres. Installed Magura Hs33, cranks and I have a single speed conversion kit for the rear hub when it arrives.