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Brisa

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Posts posted by Brisa

  1. It could be the ring has moved as your were putting the halfs together, try loosening the bolts and tightening them evenly and firm but not over tight. I still think the problem lies with the oring as there nothing else that could really cause it to leak from that area.

  2. Used to shin myself a lot when I first started then didn't do it for years! My last time on the trials bike in the summer I gapped to gusset spikey shit of a pedal to the shin. Bit below my knee didn't dry up for 2 days. Was disgusting!

    Back to platforms with the new bike and get my veggie wraps back on for sho'

  3. I always bleed from the caliper up, the trick I find to a good bleed on hopes is when you think its all bled with no more air coming out. With the resivoir near full just flick the lever in and out a load of times (like pulling it with index and middle finger alternately quickly). You will see some more small bubbles coming through the transfer port. Keep doing this until they stop coming out and it should feel pretty good!

  4. Why do we even tolerate twats like this on the forum? If anything you said was true you are a bellend and give the responsable shooters a bad name, we have enough trouble convincing people were not all lawless pricks that will shoot everything that moves without an idea of what were doing! And if you were lying then your still a bellend for well... lying!

  5. to be honest they're steel frames so not really worth it. They're heavy, stiffer than alluminium which is worse for trials as frames need flex in order to not snap clean in half etc.

    If marino did allu frames i'd be all over one but it isnt worth it for a steel frame.

    Might want to check that out, alloy frames tend to ride a lot stiffer than steel. Steel and titanium preferred on frames for feel due to thier forgiving properties. I know my steel dmr trailstar soaks a lot of the buzz up that my orange missle didn't.

    The amount of incorrect second hand information thrown about on this forum by new members is incredible.

  6. Holding your pads on going down a full constant will only glaze them and make them not work. Take the pads out and see if they have a shiney look to them. If so sand the top layer off flat. Go out and use the brake, short sharp bursts of using the brake are the more effective way of bedding in pads. You could even do this down your hill, just don't drag them.

  7. Barstard i was about to tell him that, air pistold are a max of 6, i have mine at 7.233 and it feels like its about to backfire. So maby its for safty and not just law.

    You are aware you just admitted to owning an unlisenced firearm on a public forum. Something which can hold a 5 year sentence.

    I would try and budget a bit more if your looking a decent quality gun that will last, a good spring rifle like the Weirauch HW95k is around £300 and I would try and allow around £100 for a half decent scope. I would go for a .22 if your planning on pest control but it does have a loopy trajectory in 12ft/lb guise so you will need to really get your range estimation down. .177 will shoot a fair bit flatter (less in the way of range estimation needed) at these power levels and if taking head shots (which is all you should be taking with an air rifle) out to 12 ft/lb ranges (40ish yards) a .22 isn't going to make it any deader than a .177.

    Hi Nic, I see you are fairly local to me. Must get out for a ride when I get this new bike sorted.

  8. Thanks good to hear from someone who's been using water for a few years, was kinda thinking about the last ability factor, I put Belfast down as a sort generalisation as I live in Bangor but end up going anywhere the train can take me on my travels, when I've a baby sitter for my son that is, tough getting time when your a single parent! where in Belfast you from?

    The water won't eat the seals it just won't lubricate them which will destroy them in the end if they aren't lubed. I use some silicone lube on the master and slave seals with no problems at all.

    I live in east belfast, ridden in bangor a lot in the past. Is there still the twins and aaron cosbey riding down there? Im just getting back into it after a brief spell to bmx.

  9. Lubing brake pistons usually makes them return badly. When rebuilding a brake I will always clean and dry all oil off the piston and seals and then push the pistons in hoping for some resistance. The seal pulling on the piston will help the piston to return into the calliper better than a slippy piston. I have tried both methods back to back to see which worked better and its always the non lubed piston in disc callipers.

    I noticed your brake seems to have metal pistons, depending on the brake Im nearly 100% sure hope use Phenolic pistons in all of thier brakes now due to better all round performance and better heat disapation (not that heat would matter much on a trials bike) the pistons are available as an aftermarket upgrade.

  10. I would say anything with nasty solvents (stuff that tends to smell nice like gt85) shouldn't be used in a magura. They are a mineral oil brake and the seals won't take kindly to petrolium based products.

    We had magura technical guy over giving us a rundown on the forks and brakes tech for 2010 last month and I asked him about the water in a magura thing. He said it would not damage the seals it just wouldn't offer them any lubrication. If you were to rebuild your master and slaves giving a coat of silicone lube on the seals then bleed with water you will have a nice feeling brake that should move freely for a long time.

    Not sure what you could add to stop it freezing that won't play havoc with the seals but I have been running water in maguras and ridden on some silly cold days without any issue.

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