craiggy1984

BIKE WHORES!!! lol joking My time lines tiny and not many good bikes there,no pics of the oldest ones,youre not missing much though lol 1998-2000 :Emmelle dual slalom:steel framed thing i specc'd for trials with rigids,maggies,fsa powerpros/dmr ringthing etc :Heavy tools,with hope mini,easton carbon bars,azonic shorty,maggie rear,d521 rear,mavic xc rim on front(disc hub obv) bike then got stolen,got job,i started driving,met girl....quit trials... ...............9years later... :2001 Megamo mod(classic) :Onza T-pro 2005 magura spec :Current Czar ivan stock :Tommorow picking up GU Typhoon 05 Im going to have two rides,the Czar and the GU,both are being treated to czar and GU parts..yippee

Im 25 and bald already so i consider myself OAP!! haha No seriously i really am lol,i do feel the difference in my riding now,i get tired quicker and when i say for instance knock my knee on the stem,it hurts for longer,that really hurts actualy when you do that,dont do it as much now though since i stopped riding mods

Mod is the term used to describe a 20" wheeled trials bike,a stock is a 26" wheeled bike, i'd advise you to start on one a mod though my friend,easier to throw about,get an onza t-pro 2005 onwards dude,i had one and i never had one bad thing to say about it,they are excellent for the money you can pick them up for either new or used,and personaly i would also say yes,get a trials specific bike,will help you no end because of the geomotries used nowadays,makes things easier once you learn to hop on the back wheel Then if you feel like your ready to play with the big boys get a stock,you may find that you advance so much on a mod though that you jus keep excelling yourself and end up like Craig Lee Scott or Danny Swindlehurst,these lads were so inspirational to mw when i started riding trials again a few months ago......so yeh,go mod first,then you can always try a stock later,hope this helps

Thanks fella .....................when i next post pics i shall post them in that forum,pics of upgrades to the Czar and my upcoming GU will go in there.

To be exact,taken directly from trials wiki.......... The geometry of this frame is: Wheel Base - 1100mm (1070mm for the 'short') Chainstay Length - 375mm BB (bottom bracket) rise - 60 mm Head Angle - 71.5 degrees mines the short frame .....oh and you will be surprised how nice the flat bars feel,although once i have gotten my GU and done what i'd like to do with that(new bars/stem/cranks/brake clamps/booster/bashring etc all GU apart from stem) i will be contemplating new bars and stem,brake clamps and new 4bolt booster on the Ivan,obviously all CZAR to match I'll be posting pics once both bikes are done,but in the correct forum this time though lol

lol i get what your saying Alex.... Um??? as it happens at this current time i shall be keeping hold of both the CZAR and the GU when i get it,need to feel how the GU rides before i consider or decide on letting the ivan go,the ivan is soooo sweet,just i have always wanted a GU Typhoon...i shall let you lads know somehow if i decide to sell the CZAR,although it is very doubtful though because i have a thing for her lol

yee i know mate,just i did post photos in the gallery and no one looks so i thought i'd shove the pics in you lovely peoples faces lol

I posted this kind of thing on nmc this morning before realising i have already been validated lol.... Just want peoples opinions and thoughts on my bike really....so what u think? Spec and info is in my topic in nmc

Thanks Keep them coming,i dont see many of these frames around,and when i do see them i always say to myself that mine looks better and is better specc'd,it's not big headedness either before anyone says lol......im buying a GU full build in a few days,YAY

The guy who wrote that comment was clearly a stupid youtube loser who wanted attention,what a reeeeetard to put something like that!!

oh my god lol,i cannot believe no one has anything to say about it!! hope i get that GU i want

I ride a four finger lever on my bike for my rear maggie and its not spongy at all,i use a two bolt booster but upgrading to a four bolt echo booster soon,try what others are saying,give your brake a good bleed,try that,then if that still feels spongey try a booster

Here is my 06 Czar ivan(Spec) Frame: Czar ivan 06Cranks: Tensile Urban 175mm with Tensile bashFront wheel: Try all drilled rim on GU disc hubRear wheel: Try all drilled on Zoo hub with 12th fixed sproketFront brake: Hope Mono Trial with 180mm rotor and blue reservoir top cap Rear Brake: Magura HS33Tyres: Maxxis ignitor 2.1 frnt-Maxxis high roller tacky 2.35 rearPedals: Onza shindigs i think??Chain: KMC Kool chain

Don't think i could have asked for a better answer Thanks Muel ........ i'll order one of them really nice fancy try-all 180mm rotors now,may aswell as i think they look really sweet!! Hope...( lol get it?) this goes well,little bit worried because they arent exactly cheap brakes ..... I'll let you know how it goes...... eek ...

I should be able to find a guide on bleeding on like youtube or something right?? do u have any ideas on how to straighten the rotor? iv tried just spinning the wheel and watching it in between the pads in the caliper,and pushing it over where it seems bent,but it just keeps going back to its warped state...... oh and also do you advise that i should change the seal kits in both lever and caliper?

Can anyone help me please?? i have no idea what is wrong with it,but my hope mono trial is playing up,i don't know what year the brake is,or how im supposed to service or bleed it etc as it came on the bike when i bought it on ebay and i did not get any manuals with it... problems are: - dodgy feel at lever,one minute the lever pulls in loads,then it only pulls in a little and feels spongy as hell - warped disc from out of nowhere(i honestly havent hit it on anything) - serious drag when i spin the front wheel,and i cannot get the washers right where you bolt caliper onto forks - creaking when you pul the lever Someone help me please as it's really annoying,thanks

yeh should give you a harder gear,i remember on a really old bike when i was using the middle chainring which was like a 32 tooth,the smaller the sprocket i used on the rear cassette the harder the gear would be,so i should imagine same principle will work here,i did edit my last reply to this kind of saying that lol

Does anyone know that if Jack was to use a smaller rear freewheel,would it give him a harder gear?? i cant get my head round it lol Im pretty sure that if you was to try a smaller rear freewheel you would achieve a harder gear to ride with,problem will be finding a decent quality one with a decent ammount of engagement points?? hmm? think the only one ive seen worth mentioning is an acs claws,and even they arent amazing because you have to constantly tightnen the lockring and lifespan is not that impressive.....i'm trying to be helpfull though mate lol

hmmm? :/ really don't know what to suggest in that case,are you sure it's a 19th freewheel? i have just been on montybikes website and it shows the spec to be an 18th rear freewheel and then a 24tooth front chainring? im sat here trying to think back to when i rode a bike with all its gears and shifters and trying to imagine what a 24:18 ratio would feel like? i currently run 18th front freewheel and 12th fixed sprocket on my Czar stock and i never find it too light,unless im building up speed to do manualing,i personaly would suggest sticking to what Monty intended,are you new to trials?

yep i just see,iv been researchin it for you and looking at photos of the 219 Monty,do u need a new freewheel then because your original one has broken? and if so is it still on the rear wheel so you can see how many teeth it has? just trying work out the situation here,have you rode it yet? because i am just wondering wether you are just genuinely needing to replace a broken freewheel,or you rode it with the gear ratio its has now and you don't like the feel

I take it your Monty is still running a old rear freewheel? are your cranks still the original Monty ones that came on the bike when it was new? if they are can u tell how the sprockets held on? i.e thread,or is it like old 4 or 5 arm cranks and held on by allen key bolts?

Yep 18th freewheel,12 tooth fixed rear