japslap

Ha ha I remember that same thread, I don't even think they where newbies things like the above was said, in fact one lad even said that shin pads are gay

Mate of mine spilt his shin bone before, and got a free ride to hospital in an ambulance and all, heee yaaa at least you didn't have the double length terror pins in your v8's! I used to use foot ball shin pads under my jeans when my feet used to slip off mine, but don't seem to have the problem any-more

Hey man nice bike, It looks brand new, so you've got a hydraulic gyro on for the back brake and a normal front!? could you not run the front brake down the steerer tube to free it up for bar spins? anyway just a thought, looks sweet anyway man enjoy

I can't answer your poll because you've asked Whats rotor for best power and strength but I've only tried a couple so therefore a can't help, you'd have to have tried all of them to answer your poll!

totally agree, I've always got by with a hope trials disc but if that's not an option why not try both and see which you prefer!

Perfect you obviously did it right then perfect candidate

Well if you really did want to do a quick drive ring service on it you could read the instructions with the link I've give you before http://chrisking.com/tech/tech_PDF But if you'd rather not chance it, (although it is the easiest thing to do yourself but if your not that competent with a couple of Allen keys (which is all it takes)) then Chris King them selves have directed me towards Bromley Bikes in Kent, as they operate a Chris King service centre in the UK, of course there's tarty bikes but reading this thread some people have had difficulties with hubs skipping, personally I've had Chris Kings for years and serviced them myself but I guess I must be lucky because they've never skipped on me, good luck

can you reiterate? what pads are cheap anyway? what pads only MIGHT be decent?

Remove the top cap with seal and pads Attach the adapted sealed top cap with the hose on it that goes to the bottle (where you put you oil) Add the oil to the bottle above open the bleed nipple Push the pistons in fully Insert a block/piece of wood to stop the pistons moving out while bleeding Attach the bleed nipple pipe which leads to the empty bottle (make sure the bleed nipple is as vertical as possible position (remove one screw that mounts the calliper if needed so that you can point it up)) Attach the valve to an inner tube with 30psi Watch as it pressurises the system and pushes the oil around the system and out the bleed nipple Pump the lever a few times slowly until the pressure pushes any traped air out the bleed nipple (should be 3 - 5 slow lever pumps) Close the bleed nipple Remove the adapted top cap and seal Replace with top cap with seal Wipe down Turn the calliper upside down (as there is still a bit of oil in it at the top of the bleed nipple) and wipe Replace pads Replace wheel and pump the lever slowly until the pads align and centre properly I found that using the bleed kit works best from a completely dry system-maybe after you've serviced your calliper and there is no oil in the system at all.

Not 100% true - Buy a hope bleed kit!

Not sure haven't tried them but they look like these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-X-Sets-Onza-Citrus...=item3a56878add free post and for 2 packs of 2......its gotta be a deal....a steal.....sale of the f**king century!! I got some and for the price I've no complaints

Nice one man, I agree about the parts but what you gonna do, good luck for the test, let me know how it turns out

Yea agreed it is so easy it doesn't do justice calling it a service but..... "Beyond an occasional adjustment, the only maintenance necessary is cleaning, lubricating the RingDrive (see “The RingDrive”, pg. 12), and re-lubricating the bearings (see “Service of the bearings”, pg. 14). Riding conditions will determine how often to maintain your hubs. As a beginning guideline, your hubs should be maintained every 6-12 months in normal and dry conditions and every 3 months in wet or muddy conditions." (quoted from Chris king hub manual)

totally agree!

Just check the site according the item http://chrisking.com/tech/tech_PDF as I'm not sure if your talking about a hub/bottom bracket or headset, either way the technical service manual on that page is the same one that comes with the service tool and in my view worth a look anyway.

nice ashton man, I'm building up one at the moment what brake booster is that? do you need to deform the seat to get it in?

I like having a big heavy lump of a steed to try things out and train on, then when I get the lighter bike out things are so much easier.

I'm not sure on what size of tyre will fit on that exact frame, it was just that on my frame when I used those magura mounts at first the lugs rubbed on the tire because I had to set them at right angles because of the wide rim also I find sometimes that using a wide rim can plump a tire out a bit more than it would on a thinner rim as it has a wider base, but if your going to use a 40mm rim with a 2.4 tire it should be OK and the magura mounts should be OK as you won't need to set them as wide so the lugs that rest against the frame won't need to be a such a wide adjustment, good luck man everything set to work out OK, Also that rim you linked will be fine for a rear, it says it the additional information on the page.

best advice I can give is to buy a bleed kit and have a perfect bleed in 5 minutes, fast and clean (do it in your living room if you want) and perfectly bled brake time and time again

That was the one I couldn't use as the lugs that press against the frame are a bit fatter than the others, So if I had used those with my 47mm rim on by frame that had 85mm width between the lugs it wouldn't do unless I put a thin tire on, even a Maxis Larson tire which was a 2.3 tire rubbed on it. Yea you could replace with a thinner rear rim, I was looking on Tarty the other day they don't have much there's a Alex rim but it's more traditional style rim with on holes etc, Onza did quite a thin rear called a ronnie at 39mm but haven't seen any in a while.

I had to bleed my hope brakes a while back but decided to get one of the hope bleed kits (someone had a new one on ebay for £20) I was going to do it the same way they showed me on the web site and thought the bleed kit would just be extra things I needed to do it that way, but it turns out the system is completely different, it has different attachments for different hope levers to make a proper seal on the lever then you've gotta link the system up to an inner tube with 30 psi in it and it pressurizes the system and pushes the oil round the system and the air out, pull the lever a couple of time as the pressure pushes the oil through and it's sorted in 5 minutes. The pressure from the inner tube flushes all the air bubbles out and your done in no time, well worth the investment.

I think those half bash guards are used for UCI where the bash is avoided anyway but just use your half bashring and don't worry about it! If it bends get a new one! life's to short - ride hard and worry about it later

I think If your in a position to smash hard on like you said it you might be better without for the very reasons you've mentioned! But I've not much experience with bash plates, never had a problem and always got on fine by just using a bash ring. In saying that my bash rings have always been the complete ones that you don't need to turn around to suit your chocolate foot/forward foot but I shouldn't imagine that should effect strength to much anyway unless you land hard on it at an angle it might bend easier, but can't be sure maybe someone with more experience with those half bash rings could shed some light on it

Well If you compare the axle to crown measurement/weight of some of the other forks from say tarty bikes (www.tartybikes.co.uk)that they sell for Trials bikes, it might give you more of an idea, I checked earlier and the highest axle to crown measurement was 420mm I think on some forks from ViZ, but I'm not sure about differences on weight extra, Its difficult for me to say as I've not used them personally on a trials bike! What frame are you building?

What width are the lugs apart? I have a base ta26 similar kind of old frame style ( 85mm width), I have to use an echo on mine with a 47mm rim, but you've got use old worn pads or painfully (and wastefully) cut your pads down, I also had to use the Magura mounts with the Metal lug with the taper that goes into the mount and rests against the frame and not the plastic one which connects to the mount on the little zig zag attachment, other wise the plastic lugs at the position to give the most width of the mount will rub on your tire! I used a hope Trials disc for a while but was worried that going backwards and locking the brake to half cab round could rip my drop out off, so I changed round again